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Posted

I had all suspension bushings and ball joints replace/ repair yesterday in a local workshop. it took them 2 days to remove the parts, sent them to suspension repair shop for bushing replacement/ repair, then reassembled

since the car still has almost all original bushings so the ride after the job is nicely different. I had terrible vibration from 80kmh and up before, very noisy over bad road condition. Now all seems gone away.

the cost is amazing low to me, cost me all for only 200 bucks over. if I replaced all 4 upper control arms at 200 bucks per pair, it would cost me only 500 bucks something.

This job is recommended for car experiencing bad handling, vibration, noisy.


Posted

Could you tell me which bushing is responsible for crack and tiny bumps feel getting thru to cabin at low speeds like 10mph?

I know the shocks are ok in my car but i want to replace only the bushing needed.

I guess it will be the ones directly in line with wheels and body but which ones?

Posted

first, i am not an expert on this subject. i may be wrong. I think the sound you hear will tell more about about which part of suspension system goes bad. say if you hear sound with more treb, it may be produced by the metal ball joints like the ones in steering system. if the sound has more bass, it may be the rubber bushings

if I were you, i would bring the car to a shop, getting them to thoroughly check your suspension system. some of the parts e.g. ball joints are not able to be checked for worn out without removing the connecting parts. for example, the front upper control arm ball point need to be removed from steering nuckle and flipped back and forth several times with a torque gauge (good specs for ls400 falls within 10-35 kg-cm according to lexus repair manual)

removing things, checked and then replaced if needed, reinstalled if no need wont damage your car if done by a good engineer

hope this helps

Posted
I had all suspension bushings and ball joints replace/ repair yesterday in a local workshop. it took them 2 days to remove the parts, sent them to suspension repair shop for bushing replacement/ repair, then reassembled

since the car still has almost all original bushings so the ride after the job is nicely different. I had terrible vibration from 80kmh and up before, very noisy over bad road condition. Now all seems gone away.

the cost is amazing low to me, cost me all for only 200 bucks over. if I replaced all 4 upper control arms at 200 bucks per pair, it would cost me only 500 bucks something.

This job is recommended for car experiencing bad handling, vibration, noisy.

Wait up, ALL bushings and ball joints for 200 or 200 in labor plus parts? Some of those bushings are 70 bucks a piece! I would like to know exactly what they replaced, as everyone else and where they got the parts. Mine is due...just turned 100K miles.

Posted
Could you tell me which bushing is responsible for crack and tiny bumps feel getting thru to cabin at low speeds like 10mph?

I know the shocks are ok in my car but i want to replace only the bushing needed.

I guess it will be the ones directly in line with wheels and body but which ones?

I had a slight "clunk" sound over bumps at slow speeds < 10 mph. Turned out to be the strut rod bushings.

The local tire and alignment shop said that all suspension components looked fine to them. But from messages

on this board and upon closer examination, I found the bushings had small cracks. And apparently thats all it takes. Dry rot.

The strut rods cost about $100 each side. Takes about an 1.5 hours per side to change.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

What you'll find is that just about every LS owner seems to have something different causing the initial "clunk", but the good news is that it can be isolated to a very few components:

As Landar said, it could be the strut rod cushions...however this is usually associated with clunking upon braking, since they support fore/aft movement isolation.

The usual culprit first is the lower tie rod, followed by upper control arm bushing/tie rod. Sometimes these can be isolated by checking for any play in the tie rods, or on the UCA bushings.

The UCA bushings can be checked by giving a good heave (side to side in relation to the centerline of the car; or straight ahead of you if you're sitting in the wheel well facing the disc rotor)--if there is any play whatsoever, or any noise indicating play, then the UCA is a culprit.

Posted

hi pishta, it was $200 for all: parts and labor. that why i felt amazing low. I really want to recommend all here the work shop where i got the suspension done. however, i know there is very little chance for any of you here to enjoy that low cost as i am living in VN ;-)

i got all the bushings replaced. one ball joint on rear upper control arm replaced, all others ball joints remanufactured

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