Anyone Know How To Change The Starter In A 91 Ls?

[SRK]

There are reasons for the starter to be there - it's not "dumb". First it allows the exhaust manifolds to be tucked in tighter to the block, to allow easier packaging of the engine in the car. Second, the cats can be placed closer to the exhaust ports to improve efficiency. Third, the starter is not exposed to heat from the cats. Fourth, because the intake manifold is a "ram" type, a large hollow exists in the valley of the block for it.

Other manufacturers place the starter in this location - the Northstar V-8 does it as well, for the same reasons.

If you had any experience working on Porsche, BMW, or Mercedes you'd think it an elegant solution. I do.

We all know that these cars aren't like a '64 Buick. Don't expect servicing them to be like a '64 Buick either.

[curiousB]

There are reason this is a poor choice:

1. First starter motors are prone to failure, they have commutators, brushes, bearings, and solenoids. All wear items under significant stress.
   
2. Second dismantling most of the engine intake to change an unrelated assembly is "poor design for serviceability". In fact you could argue there was virtually no consideration for serviceability.
   
3. Third ask someone who's just paid a dealer to have this done how much they enjoy the so called performance benefits (of the starter where it is) when they plunk down the better part of a grand for a starter motor swap.
   
4. Forth ask someone who's had to have most of the front of the engine removed to change a water pump if they enjoy the performance benefits of a concealed water pump.
   
5. Fifth Lexus is not a Porsche.
   

[SRK]

Fifth Lexus is not a Porsche.

Damn observant of you.

See post 15 of this thread. If you pay a grand for this job, you're getting ripped.

To a properly trained technician, it isn't a big job. Neither is a water pump.

[python]

ur right this car isnt a porsche, do u have any idea how many engineers they had working on this car? more than they had on the infamous ZERO which was an icon in WW2(although the united states built the mustang which owned that plane and the ford car is named after it), this car started development in 1983 and they spent over 1 billion dollars in 5 years and has won the jd powers and assoc. award for the most reliable car on the planet for 15 years straight...theres nothing about the motors or tranny's in our cars that are stupid, also the reason they put the starter there is because its away from the heat of the exhaust...how long did ur starter last? mine lasted 13 years and 130,000 miles

[vyhanh]

Hi,

I hope I am right: If you look at the valley where the starter sits in my car and the overall appearance of the top engine, I can only see dust ie. it is in good condition?

[vroom8]

Here is some good info also.

0-0 looks like a pain the the butt.....i'm not a mechanic....but i know one when i see it.

maybe i'll just trade in the car.... :o

[jqzhang]

what about the WHOLE project makes it most difficult?

Its the length of the job compared to what you would normally expect. Most starters in other engine layouts are easily accessable, so to have to strip the whole intake system (which are very complicated, but thats why we love them) on these cars just to get to the starter motor, is very frustrating.

Thats why I class it as hell. But if you are doing other work like cleaning the throttle body, check valves, replacing valve cover gaskets etc, and you were not pushed for time I am sure it could be a pleasant experience. You just need patience and time.

I know it's been a while but I do need your help with removing the starter.

I've taken off the Air Chamber, but I have a problem taking off the Manifold, which is under the Chamber and above the starter. It must be off before I can reach the starter. The problem is it won't come off. It feels like something is in the way but I cannot figure out what. BTW, the By Pass Join is on and I don't think it has much to do with the Manifold. So are the Injection Rails which are on the Manifold so I think I can leave them on. All 6 bolts and 4 nuts are off. I can lift the front of the Manifold about 1 inch from the Cylinder Head. But the rear only a one-tenth of a inch.

Would you folks remember as you worked on the starter removal what's at the back, behind the Manifold but in front of the firewall? Would you think there may be an extra bolt that prevents me from taking the Manifold out?

Thanks in advance.

Have you removed the EGR pipe at the rear, the fuel pipe unions, the injector connectors and the two bolts which hold the black plastic loom cover to the inlet manifold ( see picture).

Once you have the inlet manifold off the next problem is the rear coolant bridge as there is very little room to lift it off the studs as yet another plastic wiring loom cover sits above it but the loom cover is held in place with 4 bolts 2 at the rear of it near to the heater hoses and then 2 more going down on the driver's side, removing these bolts gives you a little more clearance to remove the bypass bridge.

Ensure that the coolant is fully drained or you will fill the rear cylinders with coolant when you lift up the bypass bridge ( plug the holes as seen in the picture just in case)

Thanks for replying.

Yes, I disconnected the EGR pipe from the Instake, not removal since it's on one of the exhaust pipes; also the fuel pipe union and injector connectors; also the 2 bolts holding the engine wire (but still, the engine harness feels like secure. I didn't know it had 4 bolts).

From the picture attached, I don't need to take off the bridge, do I? Because in the picture, you will have access to the starter with the bridge on the cylinder head.

I'll try on the weekend and see what happens.

Thanks again for your help.

[VBdenny]

I was at the junkyard last Friday and they had a 90 LS400 which had the engine partially disassembled. The intake manifold was off so you could see the starter location. Naturally, I took video of it so if I needed to do this job in the future I would have some idea of what's inside. If you are interested in seeing what it looks like with the manifold and starter removed you can watch it on youtube and it is called LS400 picked clean.

[Quack11]

Does anyone have a diagram or know of a website that shows how to change the starter in a 1991 LS 400? Maybe someone can just write a good walkthrough for me on here.

Thanks guys!

This request is a bit old but here you go.

starter.pdf

[925benjie]

u better change the knock sensors while u r in there

Where are the knock sensors located? Are they the ones with wires connected to them on the left and right of the V-engine?

[vyhanh]

Yes.

Have fun and good luck !

u better change the knock sensors while u r in there

Where are the knock sensors located? Are they the ones with wires connected to them on the left and right of the V-engine?