925benjie

I thought about changing the whole vaf/maf assembly by shopping on eBay but decided to work on it with the help of the tutorial you sent me. Thanks again.

Great news! I put everything back together this past Sunday afternoon except the vaf/maf sensor so i could take a closer look. I did a visual and component check and noticed that the measuring plate was stucked in closed position. Tried to push it with my finger from the air filter side area with a slight pressure but no movement. I went back to check the diagram from the tutorial that Landar sent me and how it should work and that the measuring plate should move with a slight force so air can flow thru the intake. Tried to push it again with a little bit more pressure this time and the darn thing opened. For some reason the return spring that controls the opening and closing of the measuring plate did'nt work. Took it all apart except the circuit part (connector) and cleaned them with a can of CRC maf sensor cleaner and paying more attention to the plate area and put them back together. Pushed the measuring plate again to make sure it opens and closes like it should. Also, checked the electrical connection and soldered parts to make sure. Installed the part and got the car started immediately the first time. Because of the measuring plate stucked in the closed position, there was no intake air flowing through the system so signal to the ecm was affected including the fuel pump and injectors.

No codes at all. Just doing some routine cleaning because of the idle when this thing happened. Anyway, I removed all the parts from the air filter to the throttle body again and will attempt to put them back probably this weekend. Thanks for sending me the tutorial, very informative. I will look into the vaf sensor a bit more this weekend probably take it apart or so. Will post an update when i get to it.

Recently removed and cleaned maf sensor, icv(idle control valve), egr and throttle body on a '92 es300 due to sluggish idle. After i put them all back together, i attempted to start the car with no luck. Recheck all connections to make sure but the car would not start. The only way the car would start is if i unplug the maf sensor connector but only for a few seconds and it dies. Tried to plug it back while it idled but it shuts down as soon as i plug the connector. Anyway of testing the maf sensor if it's good or need replacement? Looking for any feedback. Thanks.

Just to be sure, I would take the rear valve cover off again. This time, put it back together using a NEW gasket and also a thin layer of the same high temp. sealant you're using. Good luck.

I finally got to replaced the driver side and passenger side axles of the '92 es 300. The constant noise when turning and hitting bumps made it clear it needed some fixing. I was only supposed to replace the torn inner and outer cv boots but upon reading and researching some of the postings in this forum and advice from a mechanic friend, i decided to change the axle shaft with the cv boots already installed since the cost is only $15.00 more compared to buying the inner and outer cv boots. Also, labor wise, it is easier. The posting by Jet a Jockey dated 01-15-08 was the key for me to tackle this DIY. For DIY owners who wants to do this project just type in the keyword "axle" and search the topic title "1993 es 300 axle replacement". It took me approx. 4 hrs. per axle. It would have been a lot easier but the other end of the shaft was mounted and held by 6 heavily torqued allen screws. I used extension rod for ratchet at the end of the allen wrench just to get some leverage and also a small pipe. Did'nt wanna take a chance with the axle failing and getting stuck while driving.

Are you talking about the one that's srewed in with 2 small hoses connected to it?

You bet! Many thanks for the suggestions,G.J..

Finally went to the smog station for the retest. I waited another week to burn most of the fuel in the tank since i added a can of fuel system formula and also did an oil and filter change. Went to the gas station and put three-quarter tank full of premium unleaded and drove it for at least 30 minutes until the temp. gauge is at the normal operating temp. and went straight to the smog station. The smog tech took it in right away and within 15 mins. came back with a passing grade. He even asked me what i did with the car because the emission test showed so much improvement from the previous one. I told him i owe it the the guys on the club who gave me some pointers. Now, on to the next project, replacing the cv boots. Thanks.

Just posting an update. Followed all recommendations suggested by GH and took it further. Removed from air intake,throttle body,valve cover to intake manifold. Replaced all the gaskets, some hoses that i broke, spark plugs,oxygen sensors,pcv and air filter. Did a lot of cleaning due to the amount of dirt built up on most of the parts involved particularly the throttle body,egr valve,idle control valve and the intake manifold. Put them all back together with no excess parts which was good. Anyway, what a difference. The car runs so much smoother and power. Hopefully, it would pass the retest this weekend. I will cross my finger until then.

Did oil and filter change, spark plugs and belt with about 169K miles. It now has 179K. Anyway, I will follow your suggestions and maybe take it further all the way to the intake manifold if that would make a difference. I got time this coming weekend. Thanks "George'.

About a year ago.

Had to get the '92 ES 300 to smog test station yesterday and failed the test. Had no problems during the prior years passing but not this time. It passed the visual inspection and functional check except the emission test. The HC (ppm) and the NO (ppm) was above max. but below gp(gross polluter). However, the CO (%) was way higher than the gross polluter allowable limit. I warmed up the car for about 30 mins. prior to taking it to the station. Any suggestioms or DIY info i can do before taking it back for a retest would be much appreciated.

Since I had time to work on the car this Saturday, I was going to do the tutorial about these CEL and give it a shot. So i popped up the engine hood and recheck all connections just to make sure i did'nt disturbed or miss any when i re-assembled it all back together last week. When i got to the electrical connections, i noticed that the plug in connection to the air mass flow sensor near the air filter housing was not pushed in all the way. So i plugged it in all the way and made sure it click just like most of the electrical plug-ins. I immediately grab the key and started the car and the dash lights are gone!!!!. Turned it off and on again just to be sure and that was it, a loose connection. Man, i thought it will take me all day just to find the trouble codes. THANKS for all the infos and suggestions. Even had time to go to a b-day party.

Many issues can cause that. A list of diagnostic codes is at http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html Thanks, will try to do the tutorial this weekend. Hopefully i can figure it out.

After 2 weeks of off and on working on my wife's car, I finally finished changing the starter. Her '90 LS 400 with over 205,000. miles original starter needed to be replaced so i followed most of the suggestions and recommendations posted on this forum by fellow members and i can tell u they were very informative and helpful. Anyway, after putting everything together and test driving the car last Sunday, i can honestly say that the car runs a lot better since i cleaned every part i removed and replaced all the gaskets with new ones. However, on her way home today, the "check engine" light and "trac off" light came on. Also (not related to the lights on) when the gas pedal is released while driving, the car seems to quickly slow down like stepping on the brake. Any ideas out there will be much appreciated.

Good news, took a digital picture of the part and was gonna post to the forum but instead i took it to a Toyota parts dealer. No luck, parts person not helpful and rude, so i took it to a Lexus dealer and the difference between Toyota and Lexus customer service is like night and day. The Lexus parts specialist was very helpful and knew right away. He calls it "thermal vacuum valve" or "ported vacuum valve". It probably cost me more but what the heck. Anyway, thanks for all the replies.

Need some help in identifying this part that i broke while replacing the starter on my wife's LS 400 ('90). I took off some of the small hoses around the engine and this particular part broke as i was taking the 2 small hoses connected to it. It is mounted directly where the top radiator hose meets the engine block. The brass part is screwed in directly above it and the plastic part has 2 inlet tubes to connect the 2 small hoses. Any help would be greatly appreciated so i can buy the part. Thanks in advance.

Where are the knock sensors located? Are they the ones with wires connected to them on the left and right of the V-engine?

I know what you mean newguy19. In my case, the master key did not work so i tried the duplicate spare keys (thinner ones) and like i said it worked. The only thing i noticed is when i compared the master key and the spare(duplicate) , the master key's inside edges are somewhat worn out and the duplicate spare key edges are still well defined. Maybe that's the reason my master key would not go in all the way inside the master switch and not turn but the spare went in smoothly, turned it counterclockwise and it popped right up. I know Lexus duplicate key is not cheap, so good luck.

I know what you mean newguy19. In my case, the master key did not work so i tried the duplicate spare keys (thinner ones) and like i said it worked. The only thing i noticed is when i compared the master key and the spare(duplicate) , the master key's inside edges are somewhat worn out and the duplicate spare key edges are still well defined. Maybe that's the reason my master key would not go in all the way inside the master switch and not turn but the spare went in smoothly, turned it counterclockwise and it popped right up. I know Lexus duplicate key is not cheap, so good luck.

I know what you mean newguy19. In my case, the master key did not work so i tried the duplicate spare keys (thinner ones) and like i said it worked. The only thing i noticed is when i compared the master key and the spare(duplicate) , the master key's inside edges are somewhat worn out and the duplicate spare key edges are still well defined. Maybe that's the reason my master key would not go in all the way inside the master switch and not turn but the spare went in smoothly, turned it counterclockwise and it popped right up. I know Lexus duplicate key is not cheap, so good luck.

Found some related topics under "trunk wiring" and most of them involved the key. So when i got home from work, i took 2 of my spare keys, tried one and it did'nt work, took the second one and lo and behold--IT WORKED. Thanks for the suggestions.

Yes ,that's right. I've checked all fuses are okay.Could it be ECU problem? Did you get to the wiring like Bali26 suggested? fuse, bulbs and wiring. All three of your problems go to the same circuit fuse and if you said the fuse is good, you probably damage the wiring. Keep me informed. Good luck.

If both of them were working a few days ago, it's gotta be the fuse. However, that fuse also supply various circuits like the interior light, ignition switch light, trunk room light, air conditioner system and so on. If the rest are working and your seatbelt and open door warning lights are not working, it's maybe something isolated.