Getting Close To 300k Miles Service

[camlex]

Hello,

I have 281,300 miles on my car. Last time the timing belt and other items decribe as below were replaced at 210,000. Life of TB is 90,000 miles.

I will not wait to finish 90,000. within 7-10K miles, I am planning to replace following:

1. TB

2. A/C Belt

3. PS belt

4. Water Pump

5. Cam Seal

6. Crank shaft Seal

7. Spark plug

8. Wire

If I missed any items, please add them to the list.

Thanks in advance.........

[TomWoodLexus]

I don't know how long ago you had any of your maintenace done, but there are things like:

Electrical system check(includes battery check, alternator output check, starter draw check)

fluid exchanges such !Removed! coolant, trans fluid, power steering fluid (if it is old)

and brake flush!

[camlex]

Thanks TomwoodLexus,

"Electrical system check(includes battery check, alternator output check, starter draw check"

Battery was replaced last year. Alternator and starter are original.

"fluid exchanges such as coolant, trans fluid, power steering fluid"

Coolant, PS fluid I do change every year. trans fluid, every 15,000 miles.

"Brake flush"

I never do that, My mechanic told me you don't needed to do that.

Thanks again.

[lenore]

On your timing belts I would also look at the idler pulleys...

[camlex]

Idler pulleys added to the list.

Thank you.

[TomWoodLexus]

"Brake flush"

I never do that, My mechanic told me you don't needed to do that.

I hope, very much in fact, that you are joking! If not, then I don't know what to say!

[camlex]

Hello,

No, I am not joking. Last 25 years with so many car i never had brake fluid flush.

I did ask my mechanic, he explained, every time you changed brakes you are adding new fresh fluid.

Not required.

So far i never had trouble with brakes. still original calipers, lines, etc.

[homemechanic]

Hello,

No, I am not joking. Last 25 years with so many car i never had brake fluid flush.

I did ask my mechanic, he explained, every time you changed brakes you are adding new fresh fluid.

Not required.

So far i never had trouble with brakes. still original calipers, lines, etc.

Tom is right on this one. The old brake fluid absorbs water overtime from the air. With enough water content in the fluid, the boiling point of the fluid will be lowered. When you are braking hard/fast or downhill, your brakes are generating more heat than normal slow braking on th streets. With excessive heat from the brakes, the fluid can actually point off and leading to poor stopping or less braking effects. You can really put the old fluid to tests by coming to San Francisco and checkout those hills.:whistles:

It's true that you might add a little new fluid into the brake system every time you change the pads. However, the system holds a lot more fluid than the tiny amount is added. Therefore, the fluid is still quite old. One of the ways to change out the fluid is bleed the brakes by opening up the lines. Follow by adding new fluid into the reservoir while another person press and depress the brake pedal to flush the brake system. This should be done one wheel at a time

[camlex]

Thanks,

Okay. I agreed with you guys, I will do it.

Thank you...

[carlexes330]

Thanks,

Okay. I agreed with you guys, I will do it.

Thank you...

[carlexes330]

Change your brake fluid to ATE Super blue a much better fluid

ATE Super Blue Racing High Performance Brake Fluid is designed to excel within the extreme demands made on a race vehicle and exceeds all DOT4 standards. It is compatible with and will mix well with most DOT3, DOT4, or DOT 5.1 fluids.

The formula offers a minimal drop in boiling point due to outstanding water binding properties resulting in a long-lasting fluid that may not need to be changed for up to 3 years under normal highway driving conditions. Products with a lower wet boiling point have to be replaced considerably more often (e.g., DOT3 products should be replaced annually). The overall high dry and wet boiling points make this fluid an excellent choice for street driven vehicles, too, where brake fluid is flushed less frequently than that in race-driven vehicles.

Features/Benefits of ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid:

Blue tint of fluid makes bleeding brakes easier

Ideal for race use, excellent choice for street driven vehicles, too

Boiling point minimum: 536 degrees F

Wet boiling point minimum: 388 degrees F

Viscosity at -104 degrees F: max 1,400 mm 2/5

Designed to last up to 3 years under normal highway driving conditions

[cardona6569]

I am very happy that you are flushing the brakes. If your car would not have ABS, it could be avoided, but with the ABS sensors it is not a good ideal to void doing it. You are extending the life of your calipers. I would suggest to perform a Throttle Body cleaning and a Seafoam treatment to clean all the carbon out of the system. But it is up to you, if something is not broke there is no need to fix it or break it, but I believe more good than harm could be done. There lots of post about seafoam in the forums. I do mines like every 50,000 milles or when I get a new car that is used.

CPR

[mburnickas]

My take is…. why do you need a water pump? How old wires? When you change brakes you add fluid? Really you remove fluid when pushing cals back. You add fluid when or if you remove the old.

How many miles you drive a year in the lone star state?

Mechanic's in the great state of Texas (near houston) are the not the best I have seen.

[camlex]

Since he is in same area for TB, they like to replaced WP no labor charge.

my 25 years drive in texas with toyota and lexus, never flush the brake systems.

Hope that helps.

water heater hoses.

TB

Tansioner check

Idler pully baring

Drive belts.

Intake Gasket

Spark plug

wire

Cam Seals

Crank shaft seal

thermostat

Coolant

Car will ready tomorrow for another 100,000

presently I have 286,500 FYI

Thanks,