1999 Rx300 Door Lock Actuator Repair Less Than $15

[careylexus]

I read all the posts here and decided to replace the actuators in my 99 rx300 with the generic ones.

My only question is how can I tell which wires to splice into for each of the four doors?

Is there any one that can supply the answer to this.

Thanks Gary

[code58]

I read all the posts here and decided to replace the actuators in my 99 rx300 with the generic ones.

My only question is how can I tell which wires to splice into for each of the four doors?

Is there any one that can supply the answer to this.

Thanks Gary

Gary, that thread should have the colors to "piggyback" to. I have posted that answer in the past and if no one posts it before tomorrow evening, I'll look it up and PM or post it. I Just don't remember at the moment. Also, I say "piggyback" the wires, because that's what you do, don't cut and connect, they must be piggybacked, just like the actuator.

[careylexus]

Thanks for the reply, I looked further into my wiring problem and found one comment about using the thicker wires in the bundle of wires.

I also saw that someone said to connect the green wire on the new actuator to the blue/green wire on the old actuator,so i did this and it works

good. I think that the blue/green wire is the neutral wire for all the doors and the other wire the power wire and a different color for each door.

Gary

[code58]

Thanks for the reply, I looked further into my wiring problem and found one comment about using the thicker wires in the bundle of wires.

I also saw that someone said to connect the green wire on the new actuator to the blue/green wire on the old actuator,so i did this and it works

good. I think that the blue/green wire is the neutral wire for all the doors and the other wire the power wire and a different color for each door.

Gary

Gary, You'll find that the juice simply reverses direction to change directions on the actuator. What flows + to lock in a given wire will flow - to unlock and vise versa. The other 3 doors should all use the same color on the lock and unlock wires, because they all lock and unlock together. All 4 doors MAY use the same 2 color wires, because of individuality (LF door locks and unlocks on 1st push, all the rest on 2nd push). It's been a little while since I last did one so I don't remember for sure, but a test light is the easy answer.

Gary, my post # 138 in this thread gives you the colors for the lock and unlock wires.

[bross]

Just wanted to say thanks for those who have posted their tips. Just replaced the actuator on my wife's 03 RX300. I struggled with getting the old actuator out to see what needed to be done until I figured out you needed to disconnect the 2 rods coming from the outside door handle and key mechanism. Once I removed those yes it all was easy and became clear. The smaller thinner rod with the red plastic connector can be released by holding the rod with your thumb, then pressing on the red plastic coupler with your finger, you'll feel the coupler pop off the rod, then you can slide the rod sideways to remove it. The larger diameter rod simply presses out of the metal slide braket. I had to wriggle the outside handle open/close several times to get it off. Here's the actuator out of the door...

I saw what looked like a likely place to install the rod from the new actuator on the cam for the manual lock. The rod that came with my actuator was a snug press fit, but once I started re-installing the actuator into the door the rod would pop out, so I figured I better look for a more secure location. Here's a pic of the cam that I tried but didn't work...

I drilled the cam where old actuator was attached and inserted the rod that came with the new actuator...

You will have to remove the white plastic shield, 2 screws from the actuator before using this location, then also trim the shield to allow the actuator rod free movement. I then held the actuator up to the door to get an idea of how to best bend the new actuator rod. Took several attempts till I could easily push/pull the rod to lock/unlock the door, and clear the window channel. Once I was happy I started to find a place to mount the new actuator. I made a cardboard template so I'd know where to drill holes. Again took several attempts to get it right so that the new actuator moved the lock completely.

Once I had the new actuator securely fastened and tested, I soldered and shrink wrapped the new electrical connections and put everything back together. Here's the actuator I used from All Electronics, 2-wire Actuator P3500, $5.50

All Electronics

[Angkorthom]

Ok I successfully fixed three doors on my rx 300 that would have cost me $1500! Now I have created another problem when fixing the locks when I hooked up the wires I used the wrong ones it seemed like it gave the actuator power but then stopped working. Then I found out it was the wrong wires and when I fixed the problem I created another problem with my power windows. I think something happened I can't roll it up or down any more. I can use the driver side to control all four windows but when I use the the individual window buttons it won't work. The back windows don't work either. I'm getting frustrated and maybe I might have shorted something. I can control all four with the driver side but the passenger and rear won't work on their own the driver has to roll it down. Can somebody help me:(

[lenore]

Do you have the window lock button pressed? Sorry for such a question, but it sure sounds like that.

[Angkorthom]

That's what I thought at first but nope. I have to check the fuse maybe I burned a fuse.

[Angkorthom]

That's what I thought at first but nope. I have to check the fuse maybe I burned a fuse.

Fuses are all good too! Running out of options.

[whitestroke]

I did the piggyback actuator on the drivers door. Now the other doors will not open. If I disconnect the piggybacked drivers door then the other doors will open. Is the piggybacked lock opening so quick that the signal to the brain shuts of the other door actuators before they have completely opened? Can't believe this has not happened to others?

[code58]

I did the piggyback actuator on the drivers door. Now the other doors will not open. If I disconnect the piggybacked drivers door then the other doors will open. Is the piggybacked lock opening so quick that the signal to the brain shuts of the other door actuators before they have completely opened? Can't believe this has not happened to others?

WS- Something not right with this picture. Are you sure you have the wires on the piggyback connected correctly, and not connected backwards? Is the throw (or travel) on the piggyback set correctly? I have done a number of the piggyback method and have never had that problem at all, even when the piggyback is VERY fast!

[shadowsowner]

What an incredible thread and source of information - I have to fix a rear door lock and have found this really helpful.

I have a simple question - would it be possible to mount a new actuator and cut the cable from the old actuator and then just attach it to the new actuator? This would seem to be the simplest approach if it would work.

Many thanks for any responses.

Additionally, if there is anyone in the greater Philadelphia area (I live near King of Prussia/Devon) who is willing to do this repair for me I'd be happy to pay you for your time. Feel free to send me a PM.

Thanks

[code58]

SO, I would be happy to answer your question IF I knew exactly WHAT you were asking, but I don't. Are you intending to use the $5. universal aftermarket actuators? or OEM actuator? I ASSUME the aftermarket actuator, but I don't understand exactly what you mean by "cutting the cable". I have done a number of them so if you could explain in a little more detail, I'd be glad to answer. I have done electrical for many, many years as well as custom work, so have a pretty good idea of what's going on. You DO NOT want to cut OR remove ANY of the OEM system or even tamper with it if you are doing the "piggy back"method!

I don't know how many times you've heard the statement "I assumed", but I've heard it WAY too many times, that's why I TRY not to ASSUME anything, keeps me on the safe side of "I ASSUMED"!

[shadowsowner]

Code 58 - yours is a great reply and there is no question that it can be a disaster when two or more people discuss a solution but don't realize they are each speaking about different things so I'll try to be more specific.

I was talking about using one of the aftermarket actuators such as this one:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DLA-1/DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR/-/1.html

I was planning on using a piggyback approach and leaving the original actuator in place as has been described since this part obviously has many other integral functions besides door locking and unlocking.

In the piggyback approach there have been two described solutions - one involves connecting the new aftermarket actuator to the mechanism on the original actuator that opens and shuts the lock by moving the cable. A second approach later in the thread involves leaving everything in the original actuator/door lock untouched and just attaching the new OEM actuator directly to the door lock to open and close the door lock directly.

In writing this out I've seen the flaw in my proposial to cut the cable form the original door actuator and attach it to the aftermarket actuator. Although this would allow the aftermarket actuator to open and close the door the orignial part would no longer be able to "sense" the door lock position and tell whenter it was open or closed which would likely mess up the alarm and other things.

I'm wondering whether there weould be a way to piggyback a new cable or actuator rod directly from the newly installed aftermarket door actuator to the existing cable? This would obviate the need to drill holes or solve what seems to be an awkward mechanical problem of attaching the actuator rod from the aftermarket door opener to either the original actuator or the door lock itself.

In hoping to give back something to this forum I've searched around the internet on bicycle cable part sites and actuator cable part sites to try and find a way to attach a second cable or rod to the originally installed actuator cable. I've found one really helpful DIY and a second part I would like to share for group feedback.

The first is a terrific DIY from a celica website - the pictures are terrific for understanding what is going on with this type of repair in general and they show one method of splicing the cables together though the author states this is one of the harder parts of the repair

See it here:

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=304677

The second is a "kit" which is sold to attach the actuator rod from the New aftermarket actuator you install and allow it to attach directly to the old cable without splicing it in -

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-wtFr68A9k5y/p_514DLCABLE/Crime-Guard-DL-CABLE.html

The kit obviously has a few other parts you wouldn't use but I am wondering if there is a better specialty machine part which could be used to attach either the new aftermarket actuator directly to the old actuator cable or to attach a rod or cable from the new aftermarket actuator to the old actuaror cable? I've attached a picture at the bottom from the celica DIY which shows the aftermarket actuator and rod clamped to the cable.

My apologies if any of this is unclear - prior to this my most complex car repair has been replacing burnt out headlights but I am pretty good with repairs to electronics and large and small appliances.

Thanks again to everyone on this forum.

[code58]

SO, with all due respect, those links are making it to complicated. I have done a number of them and actually did the 1st 4 on my DIL's RX before anyone else was doing them, or at least writing about it. I did those in a very "factory like fashion". I have since changed my approach, because, though it looked very factory, was too much work. I will post a link from this thread where I did one for a fellow who lives close to me. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41219&st=90 Look at post# 93 &96 where I explained what I did and then the owner posted the pictures of what I did. Just click on the thumbnails. That install is not bad at all and turns out quite neat. The difference in an install I would do now is to use an automotive electrical eyelet on the end that goes on the stub shaft on the end of the cable, then run the rod through the 2 holes drilled in the plastic handle housing and bend the "Z" (2-90 degree bends) in the end of the rod AFTER it has been passed through the 2 holes. That "Z" will slip into rubber hole in the end of the actuator. I also have obtained small round push on clips from Ace Hardware since then to keep the eyelet on the stub shaft. This procedure is actually about the simplest way to do it and I believe now that I have the extra needed pieces (that I didn't have then) I could probably do the installation in about 45 min., not counting removing and replacing the door panel. I will be gone (after tomorrow) for a few days, but would be glad to give any help I could. PLEASE DO NOT cut, alter, remove, disable or in ANY way mess with the existing factory actuator set-up! The pictures on post # 96 tell the story!

[shadowsowner]

SO, with all due respect, those links are making it to complicated. I have done a number of them and actually did the 1st 4 on my DIL's RX before anyone else was doing them, or at least writing about it. I did those in a very "factory like fashion". I have since changed my approach, because, though it looked very factory, was too much work. I will post a link from this thread where I did one for a fellow who lives close to me. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41219&st=90 Look at post# 93 &96 where I explained what I did and then the owner posted the pictures of what I did. Just click on the thumbnails. That install is not bad at all and turns out quite neat. The difference in an install I would do now is to use an automotive electrical eyelet on the end that goes on the stub shaft on the end of the cable, then run the rod through the 2 holes drilled in the plastic handle housing and bend the "Z" (2-90 degree bends) in the end of the rod AFTER it has been passed through the 2 holes. That "Z" will slip into rubber hole in the end of the actuator. I also have obtained small round push on clips from Ace Hardware since then to keep the eyelet on the stub shaft. This procedure is actually about the simplest way to do it and I believe now that I have the extra needed pieces (that I didn't have then) I could probably do the installation in about 45 min., not counting removing and replacing the door panel. I will be gone (after tomorrow) for a few days, but would be glad to give any help I could. PLEASE DO NOT cut, alter, remove, disable or in ANY way mess with the existing factory actuator set-up! The pictures on post # 96 tell the story!

Code 58 - thanks! I was looking for an easier way to attach the new actuator rod from the new aftermarket actuator to the pin on the door lock. I will try the method you described using an eyelet cable and the round push on clips. Hopefully it is something I will get to work on this month and will post pictures!

[code58]

SO- just wanted to make sure you understood that the ROD is connected to the stub shaft on the end of the EXISTING lock cable. Nothing added! It really IS pretty simple. If your rod (supplied with the replacement universal actuator) has the 90 degree end on it to go through rubber eye on the actuator, you can flatten the other end and drill the way I did in the pictures. I suggested the eyelet because if you're not used to doing custom stuff as I am, the eyelet is a simpler solution. I did one that way and (eyelet) and I crimped it to the end of the rod with electrical crimping pliers 1st and the soldered it also. I worked well and was very easy. It REALLY is pretty easy, don't make it complicated. Need any more help, either post or PM me.

I would do it for you but with you in Ky. and me in Ca., it's a little to far for either of us to drive.

[vecseri]

Great discussion, very helpful and professional all of you guys! But, I tried to tap-connect the $5 actuator (from all electronics as posted above) to the 2 wires (blue-red, blue-yellow) on my 2001 RX300 driver rear door but no movement. On the 2 wires I measure +- 7 to 9 volts momentarily at switching, but seams it's not enough. The new actuator works testing at the battery. The original actuator in the door I can feel by touching it wants to move but can't. Is it possible the voltage is sapped somewhere, maybe the other actuators? The other doors sometime move partially, most times not. I was planning to replace all 4 but if this 1st one does not work I hate to take apart the other doors.

[Rx2002nj]

Hi Gurus,

For my rear passenger door, I cannot find Blue/Yellow wire. There are bunch of Blue/Red wires. If I look at the old actuator there are two connections. A set of 2 wire and another set of 4 wires. I guess it has to be from one of these sets.

Can anyone help?

Thanks

[Volcano29]

Is there anyone in NY that can perform or help perform this job on a 01 rx300?

[mpolo]

Help! I can't figure out the two wires to splice into.

[lenore]

Go to thread no 96 here...shows splice but cant remember the actual wires....

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41219&st=90

[karamzin86]

For people who live in NYC here is the number of guy who does the door actuators for $125 everything included like job and parts (917-683-6134). I did mine last week, works perfectly now

[Ricklarsen]

First, I would like to thank all of you for contributing to this post. Very informative and all worked out well on my RX 300. I did have some problems figuring out a way to attached the wire to the lock. As discussed, I was trying to use the post that extends out from the original cable attachment. My problem was that everything I put in there tended to slip out or at least give you the feeling that it would slip out sooner rather than later.

My solution was to buy a couple of feet of Copper grounding wire. Then I coiled the wire around a screw driver handle. This allowed me to slip it over the post, I then took a screw driver and expanded the coils to fill the gap, thus preventing the unit from slipping off. Works like a champ, fits in the hole in the connector that comes with the new unit. Anyway this is my contribution and will hopefully help someone else out down the line :-) Picture attached.

Rick

[justagirl]

I just bought my Dads 1999 RX300 and the Front Pass. Door Lock Lever seems to "stick".

Okay so I have read all 14 pages of this thread.....and as the user name implies I am just a GIRL! (No offense to other "Girls" here who do understand this) and I am more confused than ever

I guess the first question is: How do you know if it is your Actuator or just a "Sticky" door lock?

Can I spray WD-40 in where the lock lever is and flip it back and forth first to see if that is the only problem?

To give you my background so that you can understand why I ask questions that to may seem "Dumb" I am a Girl who is stepping out on her own for the 1st time and has never had to do anything DYI for myself before. I really want to learn how to be independent but am in a spot where criticism even by complete strangers via "typed" words will make me start to question my ability to ever be independent.

So please be patient