Es 300 Accelerator Pedal Stuck Sometimes

[yeskay]

recently purchased a 99 es 300 coach edition with nakamichi audio from a dealer. silky smooth engine. i observed the following issues and hope some forum member could point me to correct links or DIY info.

1. nakamichi audio is awesome. however when i bump up the volume i hear a jarring noise. i suspect the woofer is going bad. do i need to replace the entire woofer or any quick fix. if i have to replace is there any online reputed location.

2. how do i know whether the previous owner used synthetic or regular oil. i prefer to use regular oil.

3. occasionally i am unable to depress the accelerator when i am at stop signal. it seems stuck and i have to press hard to unstuck or release. is this a common issue.

4. it came with only 1 key (black) which i can use for all -trunk, ignition, glove and door.

Does the original remote comes with key or remote only. i would like to fill the void. i saw on ebay for remote with uncut key. I am planning to get one for spare and where do you get the key cut. i saw programming instructions on this site. if i try to program the aftermarket (ebay) key and remote will it mess up my original master key. what are the functions on the original remote.

5. the steering wheel has some chips due to heat. is it easy to replace the steering wheel.

any assistance is appreciated.

[The Tall Guy]

1) Either it's the sub or the "mid" speakers in the door trying to boast too much bass therefore distorting the sound or they've been torn. easiest way to decide whats busted is use the bass knob with fade\balance adjustments to figure out which speaker is making the noise (will need to be replaced, no real fix).

2) Dont know how you can tell, but it is okay to mix the two if they used synthetic.

3) Get a flashlight and crawl under your dash by your pedals. I would assume that there may jsut be some linkage on the cabin side that needs to be adjusted\lubricated. I could be wrong, but I'd check that.

4) Your master key will be the master key no matter what (im pretty sure) adding other keys should not affect it, thought Im no expert in the key dept.

5) Never done it but I think you needa special tool and to be very careful with the airbag as to not deploy it. Ive taken the easy way out and covered it for now.

Sorry I cant be more help - I did what I could tho :)

[smooth1]

recently purchased a 99 es 300 coach edition with nakamichi audio from a dealer. silky smooth engine. i observed the following issues and hope some forum member could point me to correct links or DIY info.

1. nakamichi audio is awesome. however when i bump up the volume i hear a jarring noise. i suspect the woofer is going bad. do i need to replace the entire woofer or any quick fix. if i have to replace is there any online reputed location.

2. how do i know whether the previous owner used synthetic or regular oil. i prefer to use regular oil.

3. occasionally i am unable to depress the accelerator when i am at stop signal. it seems stuck and i have to press hard to unstuck or release. is this a common issue.

4. it came with only 1 key (black) which i can use for all -trunk, ignition, glove and door.

Does the original remote comes with key or remote only. i would like to fill the void. i saw on ebay for remote with uncut key. I am planning to get one for spare and where do you get the key cut. i saw programming instructions on this site. if i try to program the aftermarket (ebay) key and remote will it mess up my original master key. what are the functions on the original remote.

5. the steering wheel has some chips due to heat. is it easy to replace the steering wheel.

any assistance is appreciated.

1) Most stock speakers have a foam surround that suspends the paper cone. I suspect that has deteriorated and therefore the voice coils are bottoming out. The speakers will have to be replaced.

2) First of all, why on earth would you prefer conventional oil to synthetic? If you knew the unfortunate truths about conventional oils, and the tech. that goes into sythnetics no a days, you wouldn't even consider conventional oil anymore. My family races everything from motorcylces to mustangs, and I've torn countless motors down and rebuilt them. If you saw a motor after just 15 hours of racing on conventional oil, versus 40 racing hours on synthetic, you would be amazed!!!!!!!

3) You have a throttle cable hang up or the throttle itself is getting stuck. Open the hood locate the throttle cable and where it is connected to the throttle body lever. If you don't know where it is, have someone get in the car and step on the gas peddle while you look under the hood. You will see it move clock wise and counter clock wise. You might want to use wd-40 and claen that area out real well. Make sure the lever is easy to move with you hand,( as this will eliminate the peddle function.) then I would use some grease and apply it to the open area of the cable and allow it to slide into the rubber cable jacket by opening and closing the throttle with the cable. That should fix the issue. If it is the Throttle lever and not the cable, It rotates on an axle and is spring loaded. You can unattach the cable, and remove the lever, and replace it, or clean it better and lube it from the inside.

4) Be careful of buying key blanks for Lexus. They use a chip that is built into the key, that chip has to match the ECU or it won't work. You can program it to unluck the car and the trunk, but when you insert it into the ignition, it won't start the car. I would inquire with the LExus dealer to confirm that.

5) To fix your steering wheel, there is a topic that covers that issue in the car care forum for detailing. I think it's a pinned topic at the top. I would read that.

[yeskay]

Thanks smooth1. i tried lubricating both the cable and throttle still the problem persists intermittently. When i tried by hand i did not notice any stickiness. while fishing the cable it goes to a black cover before it goes to the cabin. When i opened the cover i noticed couple of pulluys along which the cable moves on. it happens intermittently. whenever i step off the pedal and try to accelerate again i notice the stickiness. A slight thump on the pedal releases it. any help would be appreciated. is there a location i can find the 99 es service manual.

[smooth1]

I don't know about the service manual listing, but I'm sure if you can isolate each pully and figure out which one is the cause of the hang up then You'll be home free in fixing it. Or maybe do a mass clean and lube of all of them. USe compressed air and blow out all the old crap you can. Then relube them. I wouldn't use wd-40. I would use a bearing grease or something with a little more staying power.

[homemechanic]

I believe the 99 coach model still uses the chip built inside the key. The ones sold on ebay will not work because the chip can be removed.

If you have a chip built-in key, you need to go to the dealer and have a new one made. Try Sewell Lexus. . . .search the coupon code on this forum or online for a discount and then place your order online.

The remote can be purchased from eBay. Match sure you match the part # on the existing one to the one sold on eBay. Otherwise, the similar looking ones will not work.

You should be able to find the programming instructions on this site for both the key and the remote. I found them here before, but forget where I put them at home. If you can't find it, I guess I can dig them up and send to you. Follow the easy instructions and you will be able to program the remote and key correctly. Takes no more than 10 minutes to program both.

[yeskay]

Problem solved. had to clean to TB. This forum is great.