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Question For Awg (timing Belt)


hershy67

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AWJ

My timing belt broke off and is stuck on one side of the engine :( . Back in May you posted the procedure to change the timing belt for a SC300. I have a SC400 and was wondering if the procedure is the same for the 400. If it isn't, could you or someone post up the procedure for the SC400? I am also changing the water pump and therm. Any diagrams will greatly be appreciated.

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ok i dont have any diagrams and this is off the top of my head. disconect - batt terminal ( i would just take the whole thing out) wait 20 seconds after taking off batt. terminals before any work. remove air duct and dust covers. remove enine undercover drain coolant remove drivebelt ,fan,fluid coupling, and fan pulley, remove radiator, oh sorry thats for the LS the only thing thats different is that no fan to remove and no radiator to remove but you have to remove your reservoir tank. ok continue to remove ac compressor without disconecting ac hoses suspend the compreessor with zip ties or rope or somthingthen remove intake ,ignition coils and high tention cord(under a cover, then remove all of the upper engine covers remove all plug wires and remember or mark how the heads of the plug wires were facing. remove drive belt idler pulley remove all wires that may be in the way to remove the lower timing belt cover. remove distributor capsand rotorsand distributor housings. remove alternator and drive belt tentioner, spark plugsbring engine to TDC (top dead center) on the compression strokethe cam pullies should line up to marks along with the crank pulley remove timing belt tentioner loosening the tow bolts alternately then loosen crank pulley ok then take the pulley off and any other coversthen the timing belt. the water pump is in there also it takes a little working to get the pump off because of is sealaant. then assemble everything back to gethere again. if you have a press then you can reuse you rtiming belt tentioner but if you dont then you need a new one. hope this helps!

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This question is for AWJ, so i;m not qualify to answer. But anyway, V8 set up is totally different from I6. Do you want me to scan the diagram for you? Gimme your email and I will try to do it tomorrow. Also Check your tensioner, it's a good to replace it now.

JPI

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This thread is addressed to AWJ, but I couldnt help myself answering it. If your timing broke, you MIGHT damaged other parts of the engine. Secondly, all the mark and referrence points are messed up. I would take it to a professional. Timing get pretty complex and if not done right, you will waste a whole day of work.

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Hey guys, Thanks for all the info and advice. But I took Lextreme's advice and took it to a mechanic, because it looked a little too complex. So they did the timing belt, waterpump, and a tune up. But when they added the coolant, my radiator was dripping like crazy (my coolant level was extremely low before). They told me my radiator has 2 leaks in 2 different places. So I'm gonna take care of that next week.

On another note, while I was pulling out to go home, I drove around the block for a few minutes and all of a sudden, my car started driving funny (shaking, smelling funny, mufflers sounded like something was stuck in them). It was like the engine wasn't able to suck in any air. So I take it back to them. They ran a computer test and concluded that I need a new Air Intake Temp. Sensor. It's located right before the airbox. Do you guys think that is the problem, because i'm not too sure. Where can I get one and for how much?? I'm so very upset and frustrated now right now. :angry: Thanks again though...

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Air Intake Temp Sensor? Is that same as MAF? I can not picture where it is. Do u have a picture we can see? If it is MAF, you can get it from ebay. Its around $140. What is the diagnosis code #? Double check all the vacuum lines & MAF connection clip.

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Glad to hear the timing belt thing is straitened out. Get those leaks fixed. It sounds like the piece you are talking about is the maf - It might measure temperature as well - but that's a new one on me. What year is this 400? Also, if the car has been run on low coolant there could be some other damage - has it ever overheated? Keep in mind that when a timing belt breaks, there is opportunity for hard crash. I think the 1uz is a non-interference motor but I will need to check up on that. As long as your mechanics did not indicate an issue, this point is probably not a problem. You may want to get a second opinion in person though. Good luck.

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No Intakes mods no nothing. maybe a fuse blew? I dont know. I'll take it to the dealer for them to check it out later. I need to be 100% sure. If it is the intake air temp sensor, i'll try to get it from taprecycling.com (thanks for informing me about this site).

And yes my car was overheating all summer, but i just thought it was the thermostat. No harm done until the timing belt broke. I was planning on doing it in september, but it decided to go out earlier. Thanks guys, highly apprecited :cheers: .

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Hey that is my car. :D That is the electrical/electronic part of the MAF or Air flow meter. Do u have a friend with 1st gen lexus V8? Try to switch it and test it out. You dont have to remove the whole MAF, just the sensor. According to #24 its Air temp sensor. MAF is #31. Before you spend any more money. Get a friend with good MAF and try it out. This is how you would rule out MAF/Sensor problem. The thing you circled is MAF.

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I just want to add some more symptoms from my car.

1. The Performance is Vey Very Very Low (speed wise)

2. My RPM needle doesn't go over 2K.

3. Minor Vibration through the whole car.

4. There is a small amount of smoke coming from the transmission area after revving the engine.

Could all these symptoms be from the Air Flow Meter/Sensor or from something else???? :unsure:

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Okay guys I found the problem myself :magic: . When my mechanic was doing the tune up on my car, one of the ignition wires was touching the bolt of the cover that covers the timing belt compartment. When it was touching, it created a little electrical connection spark that made some sort of short circuit. When I moved the wire away from the bolt, my car was acting normal again. I was so relieved that i didnt have to purchase a new MAF! :D

On another note, I just want to say that the denso iridium spark plugs are working great! What an increase in HP/Torque! I guess it works so good is because I havent changed the old plugs in like ....forever, and the old ignition wires were stock, I had to replace them with the Bosch model.

Thanks again people.

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