Toysrme Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 So we all know the old v6's have 80 & 90amp units (The differance being pulley size), and that the 1mz-fe Highlander has an optional 130amp alt. What I don't think any of us realized is that the 1mz-fe Sienna has a 100amp alt, while the 3mz-fe Sienna has the 130amp alt, with a 150amp optional alt. Now we got something that'll definately push a descent system. :D
camlex Posted November 11, 2006 Posted November 11, 2006 Hello, Just wondering, when engr. design alt. for car, i am sure they calculate power(Amps) uses. Why you exchange with higher Amp? Please explain. Thanks,
Toysrme Posted November 11, 2006 Author Posted November 11, 2006 Modifications... You can't run a baby subwoofer's amp worth anything, or descent stereo upgrade on the stock alts. A descent 500w amp is going to draw over 40amps, while a good 1200w amp will draw 110-120amps. Hell you can bearly run the stock cars off the stock amp. Ever notice that every time you trigger the brake switch, the lights dim? Not enough alt.
saltyreefguy Posted November 11, 2006 Posted November 11, 2006 thats what i did, i swapped the stock for the highlander, and not even a flicker of dimming. but since i will be adding more amps, then i have to even get a bigger alt. but then thats the way things go..
Toysrme Posted December 15, 2006 Author Posted December 15, 2006 It has been confirmed! All Toyota v6's STILL use the same bolt pattern! The 150amp 3mz-fe Highlander alternator is a direct swap. The plug must be slightly re-wired, but who cares!
TnLex13 Posted December 15, 2006 Posted December 15, 2006 Can't a higher amp alt. burn your dash lights out quicker???
Toysrme Posted December 16, 2006 Author Posted December 16, 2006 The alt has nothing to do with that.
blk_on_blk Posted December 16, 2006 Posted December 16, 2006 Wouldn't you just want to run a clean line from your battery, rather than tax your alt? Plus, you'll want to run caps for the current spikes if running big amps.
NeiLtYmE Posted March 23, 2007 Posted March 23, 2007 Hey everybody, Wanted to bring this thread up because i was am in need of a new alternator. Been having with starting, (click click click click) jumps ok, then after it turns off it needs to be jumped again. Battery maintains enough juice to power interior lights and dash display, ect but not to start the car. Now, Autozone diagnostic equipment displayed that my alternator has a bid diode. In addition, it also displayed that the battery was bad. The battery is a sulfuric acid, deep cycle, optima yellow top... and i felt as though the battery tester wouldnt be able to accurately diagnose a failure. If the alternator has a bad diode, would it still be able to maintain a partial charge on the battery? enough to not be able to start the car but to power lights etc...? Should i rely on these results? the other question is about this highlander alternator. for people that have tried this, or know about it; how has the placement worked out, and how complicated does the rewiring become? my impression from scoping out the alternator was that its a plug n play unit with that branch connector. Not so much fun, trying to get to classes and work, and also jumping the car everytime..... hope my luck doesnt run out.
Toysrme Posted March 24, 2007 Author Posted March 24, 2007 The alts are direct swaps between the transverse v6's. You can step it up to the 160amp highlander/sienna alt if you want. Eh, I'd charge the battery & check the alt output from there.
Ray92es Posted March 24, 2007 Posted March 24, 2007 Can't a higher amp alt. burn your dash lights out quicker??? A larger alt. will be able to provide more power, the lights will only use what they need. You will need larger power wire to a much higher capacity alt. to handle the extra power Hey everybody, Wanted to bring this thread up because i was am in need of a new alternator. Been having with starting, (click click click click) jumps ok, then after it turns off it needs to be jumped again. Battery maintains enough juice to power interior lights and dash display, ect but not to start the car. Now, Autozone diagnostic equipment displayed that my alternator has a bid diode. In addition, it also displayed that the battery was bad. The battery is a sulfuric acid, deep cycle, optima yellow top... and i felt as though the battery tester wouldnt be able to accurately diagnose a failure. If the alternator has a bad diode, would it still be able to maintain a partial charge on the battery? enough to not be able to start the car but to power lights etc...? Should i rely on these results? the other question is about this highlander alternator. for people that have tried this, or know about it; how has the placement worked out, and how complicated does the rewiring become? my impression from scoping out the alternator was that its a plug n play unit with that branch connector. Not so much fun, trying to get to classes and work, and also jumping the car everytime..... hope my luck doesnt run out. Alt. have more than 1 diode, so it may be putting out a little bit of power. But the bottom line is to replace it. The yellow top is the wrong battery for most car applications. The red top or a standard battery is the way to go
NeiLtYmE Posted March 24, 2007 Posted March 24, 2007 why is yellow top wrong? Worked great for me and most people who have gotten it for these vehicles.
Ray92es Posted March 30, 2007 Posted March 30, 2007 why is yellow top wrong? Worked great for me and most people who have gotten it for these vehicles. The yellow top is more of a deep cycle battery than a starting battery
Toysrme Posted April 3, 2007 Author Posted April 3, 2007 Which makes it that much more awesome. Especially with large electrical loads. Just means it costs alot more to buy one.
NeiLtYmE Posted April 4, 2007 Posted April 4, 2007 changed with a Denso refurbished alternator myself. also put in an optima red top this time. To my surprise no one sells new alternators for these cars. They are all refurbished ones. Almost bought one from autozone with lifetime warrantee. However ive heard a couple of horror stories and decided to stick with denso. 12,000 mile 1 years warrantee.
djspawn00 Posted April 4, 2007 Posted April 4, 2007 Alternators are fairly easy to rebuild and pretty much good as new when done so. Thats why you also get a core charge, they take your old alternator and rebuild it. Good bet with the Denso as some alternators are rebuilt with poor quality control in facilities where the people putting them together have no idea what they are building.
matt_t Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 It has been confirmed! All Toyota v6's STILL use the same bolt pattern!The 150amp 3mz-fe Highlander alternator is a direct swap. The plug must be slightly re-wired, but who cares! Can you explain exactly how to rewire the plug? I just bought subs today and after driving for awhile I noticed my battery light was on. When I got home I took our volt meter and with the car off it was reading 12.1X when I turned the car on (with all accessories off) it dropped to 11.8X (manual said 13.5-13.7). The manual also said turn your lights on and the reading should drop slightly and then return (to 13.5-13.7), however mine dropped even lower to 11.7X! Anyways time for a new alt. so I figured with my amp and deck I might as well go bigger. So I would like to know how to rewire the plug on that alt. Thanks, matt_t
LeXtacy7 Posted August 27, 2007 Posted August 27, 2007 It has been confirmed! All Toyota v6's STILL use the same bolt pattern!The 150amp 3mz-fe Highlander alternator is a direct swap. The plug must be slightly re-wired, but who cares! yes please explain how to do this swap, i have a 93 es, so what year toyota has this alternator?!
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