saltyreefguy

i'm trying to replace my ps pump, any pointers on doing it? did you need any sst tools? thanks.

power steering pump. just trying to find out the correct procedure or steps on taking off the old pump..

I am looking into what are the steps into replacing the power steering unit, i've looked up the manual it really doesn't show any procedures on how to do this, has anyone done this before and can suggest some pointers or a link to where it has been down before and has anyone got this done by a certified tech and how much did it cost you? thanks..

i connect my obd scanner inside the fuse compartment, top right side. hope that helps...

hmm, understood. thanks..

i guess its time to look at the repair manual to see if the vehicle has mulitple wiring harness for that year or just one harness model was used. would the heated seats have a relay if so, would it be in the engine comp. on the drivers front inner fender area? thanks.

well, actually i was fortunate to find all the necessary parts at a dirt cheap prices that i couldn't refuse, and i figured that if i remember like you guys mentioned, that some or most cars use the same wiring harness for the same vehicles with or without the extra stuff equipment. so i wanted to ask if anyone has actually done it, and found the extra plug connectors on the wiring harness.

i had the exact same codes, i used my scanner to check and erase them and within minutes it comes back, so i replaced the round vaccum unit and the that cleared the p0401. but the p0770 seems to be not wanted to go away, so i went and drained the tranny, removed the pan and checked out the firtst solenoid pertaining to p0770 code, wiring connector seemed pretty tight, it was difficult to take it out to replace, because other items were blocking its sight. so i replaced gasket, filled tranny and erased the code and it came back. but then, i did got to have a smog check done and failed, the p0770 code and problems with the oxygen sensor. funny thing is i put in a new oxy sensor and erased the codes, passed smog.. and behold no check engine light, drove it for about 500 miles with no light, but then the light came back, check it again same code p0770. so i gave up for now.. since it runs fine.

my wife's es300 didn't come with heated seats, so i was wondering if the heated seats parts can be added to the seats, like the heat pads, switches, but does the vehicle's car wiring harness has has connector on them? also the center console has the switches replaced has blank ones. has anyone done this or know if possible? thanks.

Toysrme, hello, is the hole for the fitting drilling over the hump of the clamp or the sides? more the info would be great, i would to love tryout what you did. thanks.

thanks, came out to be true as usual. lefty loosey, righty tighty..

i did my wifes cv drive axles on her 96 es300, got the axels for autozone, guess the only reason is because its lifetime guarantee, an impact wrench will cut down alot of time on taking off bolts, you need a 11mm hex sockets(i might be off on the number) it wasn't that bad of a job, i did have a snag, guess the lexus mechanics must thought it was joke or something, one hex bolt was torque down so bad even the impact didn't work, had to be creactive but got it off. but all done guess i would rate the job on a scale from 1 to 5 a 3 for the experience person..

Can anyone else chime in and verify this, is the crank bolt standard tighten right and loosen left/counterclockwise?

i wish that was the case, but its a normal threaded bolt, i checked with the dealer just to inquiry about a bolt in stock, and also i did asked if the bolt was threaded the opposite or regular and of course, he replied its a standard bolt...

wow, i can't believe that i am still stuck at taking this ridiculous crank bolt off, i am doing the allen wrench wedge in the flywheel were they meet method, even with the break bar, it will not budge and definitly no room to put on a extension pipe for leverage, i don't know how some of you guys did it this way. since the pulley is way inside the wheel well, even the smallest extension pipe kinda hits everything like the rotors, spring. etc.. i just recieved my chain wrench by mail, guess i give that try or go buy another impact wrench made for a 18wheeler truck.. ps. does any have any suggestion on which impact will knock this bolt off? thanks.

thanks for the thoughts and ideas, i guess thats my current problem is not enough body weight(178)and breaker bar not long enough, this morning i tried heating it up then trying to un=torque with my husky pro impact wrench and no avail. so i tried my snap on hand torque tool used with hammer, nothing... called couple lexus parts and service didn't even bother to help me, couldn't or wouldn't even advice me if the bolt was clockwise torqure or counterclockwise, (they didn't even know), so i figure the forums was the next best place to search and research my problem. lovelearn thanks awhole lot, will be using alot of your info. thanks.

thanks for the thoughts and ideas, i guess thats my current problem is not enough body weight(178)and breaker bar not long enough, this morning i tried heating it up then trying to un=torque with my husky pro impact wrench and no avail. so i tried my snap on hand torque tool used with hammer, nothing... called couple lexus parts and service didn't even bother to help me, couldn't or wouldn't even advice me if the bolt was clockwise torqure or counterclockwise, (they didn't even know), so i figure the forums was the next best place to search and research my problem. lovelearn thanks awhole lot, will be using alot of your info. thanks.

thanks for that suggestion, but i think i'll take a different route, (not to say it would not work, since it has not been tried) but i'm not a person to be putting anything inside the cyclinder hole, to me only thing that stays inside there is compression gas. i did find the thread regarding another person tring to take out the same pulley bolt...

well, i found and searched many ways this is done, guess i better make a choice..

i am in the process of changing out the oil seal, off my wifes 96 es300. Since i don't have a sst tool for it have any of you guys taken off any certain way? also is the bolt counterclockwise threaded or standard? thanks in advance for any ideas..

it was mags were pretty clean. thank god i was able to pass smog. kinda of funky procedure that i did, but got me thru to pass smog, and i think this might work with cars with other mil codes.

what does that mean. steviej You open the glove compartment, you can see a button at left, press it and try the interior trunk lid opene again. Or you can check the user manual for detail, find "Trunk Lid" at manual's index. Jerry x2 ^^^ means agree 2times = times twice what the person above said.

seafoam makes one for transmission also, i was suprised when i found it. anyways i dropped the pan to check out the solenoid and the visible one, which is probably according to the service manual its the one causing the code, and after inspecting and tested with 12v, and the solenoid did not move, so i guess it might be broken, the weird part is the solenoid is not easily taken off, seems like the main inernal body might have to be removed to access the solenoid removal.

x2 ^^^

are you getting the same code p0773? also, i found a seafoam product for transmissions and power steering flush... its call ' seafoam trans tune ' ps. also today was my last day to get smog, since trying to get the 2 codes rid of in the last 5 months, and today, i pass smog, i guess it was kinda of tricking of the ecm, and the mil code was gone till i was able to get the smog test and it pass was great numbers.. hurraayyy.. what a relief