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V6 Alternator Swap: More Info


Toysrme

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So we all know the old v6's have 80 & 90amp units (The differance being pulley size), and that the 1mz-fe Highlander has an optional 130amp alt.

What I don't think any of us realized is that the 1mz-fe Sienna has a 100amp alt, while the 3mz-fe Sienna has the 130amp alt, with a 150amp optional alt.

Now we got something that'll definately push a descent system. :D

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Modifications... You can't run a baby subwoofer's amp worth anything, or descent stereo upgrade on the stock alts.

A descent 500w amp is going to draw over 40amps, while a good 1200w amp will draw 110-120amps.

Hell you can bearly run the stock cars off the stock amp. Ever notice that every time you trigger the brake switch, the lights dim? Not enough alt.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Hey everybody,

Wanted to bring this thread up because i was am in need of a new alternator.

Been having with starting, (click click click click) jumps ok, then after it turns off it needs to be jumped again. Battery maintains enough juice to power interior lights and dash display, ect but not to start the car.

Now, Autozone diagnostic equipment displayed that my alternator has a bid diode. In addition, it also displayed that the battery was bad. The battery is a sulfuric acid, deep cycle, optima yellow top... and i felt as though the battery tester wouldnt be able to accurately diagnose a failure.

If the alternator has a bad diode, would it still be able to maintain a partial charge on the battery? enough to not be able to start the car but to power lights etc...?

Should i rely on these results?

the other question is about this highlander alternator. for people that have tried this, or know about it; how has the placement worked out, and how complicated does the rewiring become? my impression from scoping out the alternator was that its a plug n play unit with that branch connector.

Not so much fun, trying to get to classes and work, and also jumping the car everytime..... hope my luck doesnt run out.

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Can't a higher amp alt. burn your dash lights out quicker???

A larger alt. will be able to provide more power, the lights will only use what they need. You will need larger power wire to a much higher capacity alt. to handle the extra power

Hey everybody,

Wanted to bring this thread up because i was am in need of a new alternator.

Been having with starting, (click click click click) jumps ok, then after it turns off it needs to be jumped again. Battery maintains enough juice to power interior lights and dash display, ect but not to start the car.

Now, Autozone diagnostic equipment displayed that my alternator has a bid diode. In addition, it also displayed that the battery was bad. The battery is a sulfuric acid, deep cycle, optima yellow top... and i felt as though the battery tester wouldnt be able to accurately diagnose a failure.

If the alternator has a bad diode, would it still be able to maintain a partial charge on the battery? enough to not be able to start the car but to power lights etc...?

Should i rely on these results?

the other question is about this highlander alternator. for people that have tried this, or know about it; how has the placement worked out, and how complicated does the rewiring become? my impression from scoping out the alternator was that its a plug n play unit with that branch connector.

Not so much fun, trying to get to classes and work, and also jumping the car everytime..... hope my luck doesnt run out.

Alt. have more than 1 diode, so it may be putting out a little bit of power. But the bottom line is to replace it. The yellow top is the wrong battery for most car applications. The red top or a standard battery is the way to go

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changed with a Denso refurbished alternator myself. also put in an optima red top this time. To my surprise no one sells new alternators for these cars. They are all refurbished ones. Almost bought one from autozone with lifetime warrantee. However ive heard a couple of horror stories and decided to stick with denso. 12,000 mile 1 years warrantee.

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Alternators are fairly easy to rebuild and pretty much good as new when done so. Thats why you also get a core charge, they take your old alternator and rebuild it. Good bet with the Denso as some alternators are rebuilt with poor quality control in facilities where the people putting them together have no idea what they are building.

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  • 2 weeks later...
It has been confirmed! All Toyota v6's STILL use the same bolt pattern!

The 150amp 3mz-fe Highlander alternator is a direct swap. The plug must be slightly re-wired, but who cares!

Can you explain exactly how to rewire the plug? I just bought subs today and after driving for awhile I noticed my battery light was on. When I got home I took our volt meter and with the car off it was reading 12.1X when I turned the car on (with all accessories off) it dropped to 11.8X (manual said 13.5-13.7). The manual also said turn your lights on and the reading should drop slightly and then return (to 13.5-13.7), however mine dropped even lower to 11.7X! Anyways time for a new alt. so I figured with my amp and deck I might as well go bigger. So I would like to know how to rewire the plug on that alt.

Thanks,

matt_t

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  • 4 months later...
It has been confirmed! All Toyota v6's STILL use the same bolt pattern!

The 150amp 3mz-fe Highlander alternator is a direct swap. The plug must be slightly re-wired, but who cares!

yes please explain how to do this swap, i have a 93 es, so what year toyota has this alternator?!

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