rich21 Posted October 16, 2006 Posted October 16, 2006 i was driving the car today and i felt a little shake when i was driving. i go back home and i put the jack on the back passenger wheel. after it was up i moved the wheel and it felt like the wheel wasnt pressed up to the hub tight. so i thought from when the studs broke on fathers day i thought i didnt put the new studs in all the way, so i started tighten it up more and then the stud snapped. how much would it be to have a mechanic replace the broken and non broken studs. im not looking to go to the dealer. thanks for any replies
anthonyiez Posted October 16, 2006 Posted October 16, 2006 shouldn't be too expensive, i'd say no more than 1 hour labor time.
JIBBBY Posted October 16, 2006 Posted October 16, 2006 Very easy as I replaced all my wheel studs last year.......All you need to do is remove the tire and brake rotor...Grab a big hammer or small sledge and hammer out the broken stud from front to back...One good front hit of the stud and they will pop out the back..They are pressure fitted.. Once removed Kragen auto parts will sell you a new stud for $3....Total repair cost for a wheel stud replacement is $3....I replaced all 20 of mine to longer studs so I could use wheel spacers....Oh and I strongly recommend you do not use wheel spacers to flare out your wheels with the stock wheel studs in place...That is how you break or strip out the stock studs...I broke all 5 off studs off my driver side rear wheel while driving my SC400 at around 30mph...The wheel wobbled tfrom launch the I heard "snap,snap,snap, and off went the wheel bouncing into someones front yard...The rear end of my car dropped and I road on the brake rotor to a dead stop...Big spark show and needless to say I ruined my rear rotor....Luckly no more damage...The reason is that I was using 1/2 inch spacers on the back wheels and didn't grab enough stud threads.. I think I got 4 full turns on threads and that was not enough..... If you do not have a mechanical bone in your body, go to Kragen get the stud replacement, and take the car to a local tire shop...Tell them to hammer out the broken stud and install the new one...Make sure you tighten up all the good lug nuts on that wheel before driving....You should not get reamed to bad...Maybe $50 tops...
rich21 Posted October 17, 2006 Author Posted October 17, 2006 very good info JIBBY. but how come when the lugs were on tight it felt like the wheel still wobbled a little bit like it wasn't pressed up against the hub of the rotor. but the lugs were on tight so thats when i thought the studs werent in all the way so i kept tighten it using a pipe for leverage it just snapped.
JIBBBY Posted October 17, 2006 Posted October 17, 2006 very good info JIBBY. but how come when the lugs were on tight it felt like the wheel still wobbled a little bit like it wasn't pressed up against the hub of the rotor. but the lugs were on tight so thats when i thought the studs werent in all the way so i kept tighten it using a pipe for leverage it just snapped. Wow, all I can say is maybe you got something small small caught up between the hub and rotor...Maybe a bent rim even...Hard to say...I would remove the tire and check the furfaces to make sure they are both flat and clear of metal debris.. Even switch tires (rotate) left side to right side and see if the wheel still wobbles......Good luck
rich21 Posted October 18, 2006 Author Posted October 18, 2006 im going to take the car to a mechanic this saturday so im going to have them check that. ill let you know how it went thanks for you replies
rich21 Posted October 25, 2006 Author Posted October 25, 2006 well i got the studs replaced and on monday i heard a noise coming from the back passenger wheel. sounds like a squeeking rubbing of metal sound. but it goes away when i accelerate. then when i let off the gas or brake it comes back. i called the mechanic again to let him know whats going on so i have to bring the car back on saturday. does anybody have any ideas before i go back . just to have a little knowlegde so they don't screw me? thanks for any replies
JIBBBY Posted October 25, 2006 Posted October 25, 2006 Well, it wasn't making this noise before? I would look at exactly what this mechanic did for you if the noise just began after his work.....What he worked on is probably the problem area...Try rotating the tires, balancing etc.....Usually noise like you said would be from differential problems, or axle joints.... I would have to see it for myself to determine the problem....Sorry I could not be of more help and good luck with the fix..
rich21 Posted October 31, 2006 Author Posted October 31, 2006 well i went back to the mechanic and they test drove it and couldn't find anything. so they took the wheel and rotor off and they noticed that the emergency brake shoes are very low and need to be changed. they checked the driver side wheel and they noticed that my rotor had four cracks in it. so i had them to put new rotors. they have to order the shoes. just giving you an update jibby since you been real helpful
rich21 Posted December 8, 2006 Author Posted December 8, 2006 well that metal rubbing noise went away but now when im going reverse and turning i hear a creeking noise in the back passenger wheel. does anybody know what it could be thanks for any replies
JIBBBY Posted December 8, 2006 Posted December 8, 2006 Rich sorry to hear you are still having issues...A creaking noise is usually coming from your rear suspension (springs and shocks) when you reverse and apply the brake...May not be the same wheel noise... Could that be the noise you hear? Not a big deal if so...
rich21 Posted January 4, 2007 Author Posted January 4, 2007 my emergency brakelight comes on when i accelerate or brake. what can i do to get rid of that. do i need to adjust the cable?
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