Good Rotor Turning Equipment?

[nc211]

Does anyone have a good suggetion on what type of equipment I should look for to have my rotors turned? They are all warped. I have Mountain's on the front, and cheapo' Napa's on the back. Napa's are about a year old, Mountains are about 5 months old. I can't swing new OEM rotors at the moment, as I am in the finishing stages of buying a house. Gotta get a few more miles out of the rotors I have now.

I know we like the Hunter tire balancing equipment, so I figured I'd ask if anyone knows of the equivalent for turning rotors???

[mehullica]

Ammoco is good stuff. In this area I feel that the skill of the person cutting the rotor is more important than the equipement.

[nc211]

Thanks Mehullica, I didn't even think of Ammoco. I had the rear wheel off yesterday, and I noticed on the rotor that the further the rotor goes out from the center, the thinner it gets??? Is that right??? I would understand where the pads come in contact with the rotor having an indention of sorts, but for it to "slope" off from the center just doesn't seem right to me...

Anybody have any suggestions as to why that would be the case?

A brake fluid job is in my not-so-distant future by the way. The fluid is at least 2 1/2 years old, with 33k miles on it, assuming it was done with the 90k service when I purchased the car "4/04 @ 84k miles"..

[SKperformance]

Any turning equipment is basically the same.

It is the person who sets them up who can either save the rotors or dig real deep to save themselves time.

It takes several light passes but no one wants to waste that time anymore

[Threadcutter]

nc:

I had the rear wheel off yesterday, and I noticed on the rotor that the further the rotor goes out from the center, the thinner it gets??? Is that right??? I would understand where the pads come in contact with the rotor having an indention of sorts, but for it to "slope" off from the center just doesn't seem right to me...

Anybody have any suggestions as to why that would be the case?

In what manner did you determine that the rotor was thinner, the closer you got to the outer edge? About the only reliable way is to measure the thickness using a micrometer or calipers that measure in one thousandths of an inch graduations. If you were just "eyeballing it", I don't think that's reliable enough.

Remember, the piston in the caliper moves perpindicular (90 degrees) to the rotor. Also, the pad is not "hard" connected to the piston. Because of that, it floats. Because it floats, force from the piston will be equally distributed to the brake pad.

Another reason that rotor wear should be consistant is because the rotor is "clamped" by brake pads on both sides. The caliper floats on the pins, which center the caliper (pressure equalization) when you apply the brakes.

Are your pistons binding or do you caliper pins need some grease?

[LScott400]

Another contributing factor to thickness variation in a rotor is if the slider pins or their bushings are worn allowing the caliper to shift from its normal perpendicular orientation.

Of course, being a "Hunter" guy I would refer you to the following Link.