Arkansawyer Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 Alright guys I had pretty much decided that my fan clutch was toast (oil on backside of clutch shaft, freely spins even after long drive) so this weekend I removed it. Just to make sure the clutch was bad I tested it after removing. Held a flame under the thermostatic coil for a good while then "spun" the clutch and there was no noticeable engagement or resistance. Got it up to operating temps and the needle is exactly where it has been with the fan mounted. Have read where others have done this with no issues. Ready to be flamed. :whistles: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsalih Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 The cooling system on this car is pretty darn good such that you will not notice an increase in temperature unless it's a 100 outside and you have the A/C on, then it will become obvious that your fan clutch is not working. The oil leak you described is a common failure on this clutch. I drove my car for probably six months without a working fan clutch and only during the summer when the A/C was slow to cool did I finally realize what was going on. By the way aftermarket ones are cheaper then OEM however they tend to be louder/noisier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arkansawyer Posted March 27, 2006 Author Share Posted March 27, 2006 If need be I think I will go with an electric puller fan. But will keep an eye on everything. I drove 80 miles to the office this morn and did not see the needle budge. Temps this morning were approx. 55 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ko90ls Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 is the puller type fan best? i would think the OEM is puller... but why would it pull then... i don't know? :( what's the difference between the two? and how do they affect the car? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arkansawyer Posted March 28, 2006 Author Share Posted March 28, 2006 A puller sits behind the radiator (engine side) and creates a bit of a vacuum to pull the air into the radiator. A pusher is what is currently on the car to help the condensor keep the A/C air cold, and to a lessor extent cooling for the radiator in an extreme condition. The puller draws air through the radiator whereas the pusher forces air into the radiator. On an auto where the radiator is in front the air is already there it just needs to be directed to the radiator. To put it plainly its easier to pull a string than to push it. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monarch Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Sayonara to your car's resale value if you install an electric fan in place of the fan clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arkansawyer Posted March 28, 2006 Author Share Posted March 28, 2006 Surely you jest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John2 Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 the FACT that everyone ignores is that most, if not all manufacturers, including toyota, make their temperature guages with a large 'dead spot'. the gauge are not linear temp indicators! they are made so that only after a large temp increase, 20, 30, or so degrees, it starts indicating hot. the dead spot is so everyone doesn't run to the dealer every time the needle moves a bit-- it's basically an idiot needle. i just rebuilt our landcruiser's guage to be linear, according to their forum, and it now moves a bit all the time. you, therefore are playing with fire and running a hot engine without knowing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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