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Arkansawyer

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Everything posted by Arkansawyer

  1. Honestly Nik I don't remember where I bought the strut bushings. Seems like I looked them up on one of the online Lexus parts places. Sorry I'm not much help.
  2. Honestly I probably won't go through the cost and time to replace every bulb with OEM as I had replaced every bulb with aftermarket and would have to change every single one. I'll just live with the light on the dash. BTW, its good to be back on this board for a bit after a long stint away.
  3. Apologies that I never updated my results with replacing the alternator. As luck would have it the alternator did not cause the light to go away. It is my belief that since I replaced all the bulbs with non OEM it is causing this light. The electrical draw from the non OEM is different enough to trigger the light. My guess is that replacing bulbs with OEM will keep the light from coming on. Just a wild guess on my part.
  4. Man I'm not much help as I can't remember exactly how I loosened the crossmember. Just know that I did. Glad to hear you have the car on the frame rails as I believe I told you incorrectly in my PM to you. From looking under the car it seem that there are only four bolts holding the crossmember on. Wish I could be of more help......or have a better memory.
  5. Gumart just sent a reply to your PM. Should have read this thread before I sent. Wasn't sure what you were doing. Yes IIRC as long as you have the engine supported you are fine to remove the crossmember. Not sure why yours is not dropping. I've gone out to the garage to see if I could remember exactly what I did and am having trouble. I know for a fact that I jacked up the engine to get the mounts out.
  6. Did them myself so I'm not sure what a mechanic would charge. Of all the things I've replaced on the LS this was probably the most diffiucult. Difficult because it was time consuming and tedious. The driver's side nut I could only turn a 1/4 or less at a time. Lying on my back with my hand all contorted was just a pain to me. But if I can do anybody can, IMO.
  7. Mine was also giving the "shake on start up" bit. Replaced the motor mounts and no more issues.
  8. SInce they were working on the front part of the engine.....Ima gonna guess ....fan clutch.
  9. ........or ko90ls if you could just stop by monarch's place.
  10. A puller sits behind the radiator (engine side) and creates a bit of a vacuum to pull the air into the radiator. A pusher is what is currently on the car to help the condensor keep the A/C air cold, and to a lessor extent cooling for the radiator in an extreme condition. The puller draws air through the radiator whereas the pusher forces air into the radiator. On an auto where the radiator is in front the air is already there it just needs to be directed to the radiator. To put it plainly its easier to pull a string than to push it. Hope that helps.
  11. My personal opinion and what I did with my alternator was to take the original alt and have it rebuilt. In my case I bought a factory used alt. and had it rebuilt while I ran on the old one that was on its way out. Kinda like OEM lite. Still have my original alt that if and when I need another will just do the same. ....another dos centavos.
  12. If need be I think I will go with an electric puller fan. But will keep an eye on everything. I drove 80 miles to the office this morn and did not see the needle budge. Temps this morning were approx. 55 degrees.
  13. Alright guys I had pretty much decided that my fan clutch was toast (oil on backside of clutch shaft, freely spins even after long drive) so this weekend I removed it. Just to make sure the clutch was bad I tested it after removing. Held a flame under the thermostatic coil for a good while then "spun" the clutch and there was no noticeable engagement or resistance. Got it up to operating temps and the needle is exactly where it has been with the fan mounted. Have read where others have done this with no issues. Ready to be flamed. :whistles:
  14. As a matter of interest Sewells have the bush for sale under service items not sure if it is oem or the poly bush as I thought Lexus did not supply the bush on its own. Yes it will probably be the poly bushing. I'm not confident enough to tell you what the poly part # is until I receive them and install them.
  15. Not that good with suspension,the part I am looking to replace is item no10 on the diagram in rear suspension at Park Place at $83.49 is that the same as you are talking about Arkansawyer. Yes if you order it from Lexus it comes complete....arm and bushing.
  16. Here you go Andy http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=28546 and the step by step http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/suspension/rcabushings.html Gonna do these myself later this week when the parts arrive. m8
  17. Think there is some confusion on which bar is being referred to by members. IF you count the very bottom bar, yes it is 3 bars. But if you don't count the very bottom bar (which is where the needle is when shut down) then it is 2 bars. Does this sound right guys?
  18. Yes I replaced the lower ball joint and lower control arm bushings. I had a local shop press the old ones out and press in the new ones for $10 each arm. I've pushed out old bushings before and honestly unless you have the right equipment its a bear. I decided to leave the upper ball joints alone as they don't see the type of wear as the lowers. Also its so easy to pull that upper arm that if I needed to replace later it would be a snap. Figured while I was so far into the front replacing the lower ball joint I might as well replace the lower arm bushing. Don't figure I'll have to go back in there again. Wait till you replace the tranny and motor mounts, you'll immediately notice the difference there. Make sure you allow yourself plenty of time to do the motor mounts. I was able to remove the driver's side mount from the front side of the engine. Take your time and it should be fine. PM me if you have any questions.
  19. Absolutely. But I know for a fact that the P/O had new brakes put on and rotors turned. I've had cars that the rotors were out of spec and this does not feel the same at all. Then I read this post from zoso: <If you are getting brake pulsations on a regular basis even after to have your rotors turned, you more than likely ahve bad rear carrier arm bushings. Once you do the replcement you will see whay this occurs.> Others have confirmed that replacement of the carrier bushings remedies this issue. It feels like the back half is going to shake the car apart. Which in essence is the fore and aft movement of the rear "axles" when braking. I'll purchase new OE rotors and pads after I install these bushings. But I will post a follow up with the results of just replacing the bushings soon. To see indeed what difference they make.
  20. Gumart, looks like your front end project is moving along. It really wasn't that hard to change everything out. As far as lube I like the silicone spray. Not as thick so it doesn't attract dirt and grit. My dos centavos.
  21. Just ordered both #505 and #583 from the link above. Also ordered part # 4872522110 that Shadow has mentioned was the bushing for the other end of the strut rod? Really didn't want to go poly on any of the bushings but figure there is a lot less movement in the rear susp. than in the front. Hopefully no squeaking. And of course the pros are that With poly I'll never have to replace them again. Thanks guys for all the help. This is a great board.
  22. Shadow you had hinted in another post about what fixed this...one part or a combination of several? Was it the ASUS bushings as shown on the lexls site? Rear strut bar? Its almost becoming hazardous when I hit the brakes :(
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