John2

i've got a '92 w/ 190k. just converted from air suspension to Arnott struts and did the work myself. There was plenty of noise from suspension before, but now that all is fixed (front upper and lower ball joints, control arms, new struts, etc..), there is a thunk or clunk from the rear - easily reproducible. it's caused by a side to side motion of the car. car hear at any speed when turning right to left or vice versa. or by pushing/pulling on rear tire- one can feel the clunk in the wheel. it's a simple single thunk as it moves right, then another as it moves back left. i've read up on the rear carrier bushings, and those symptoms don't seem to fit this issue. yes, the tire/wheel is tight- just checked. i'm also sure the top strut mount bolts are tight- plus the noise is lower, not near the rear deck. ideas/help, please?

Hi all, My 1992 LS has recently started to drop in the rear. AFAIK, original everything and never had a problem before. I know of the shocks going bad-- have read everything on it, etc. My RR started one day, then 2 days later the LR goes down w/ it w/in 15 min. They are both intermittent since they started a week ago, but more often than not, they will drop. My question is-- has any one ever found a leak in their air lines? It seems odd to me that they both started w/in 2 days of each other. I'm obviously hoping it's a line fitting I can fix and was planning whether to troubleshoot or just go straight to coil-overs. thanks!

your car has traction control. that little canister is about $600 from the dealer. holds pressure on the hydraulic fluid to be used to clamp the brakes if needed w/ trac. control. i know b/c mine was leaking... many do eventually and cause the pump (right next to it) to cycle too often, throwing a 'trac' light on dash.

the trac light is coming on in response to CEL. you need to get the code pulled for the CEL. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/ i had same issue after a whole tune up and timing belt change. it was an O2 sensor. theory is the new plugs/wires/rotor, etc. got that part of car up to spec and the old/lazy orig O2 sensor did not react as needed.

that is NOT true. in fact, locksmiths recommend WD40 over other 'oils' for the very fact that it's stable and will coat the lock parts. per family locksmith company for over 30 yrs.... been using WD for years, NEVER any gumming...

4 wheel traction control? it'd have to be 4 wheel drive, right...? anyway, my .02. i like the traction control that others don't on the 1st gen LS. it cuts power and then brakes both wheels at the same time, which is not as effective as doing them indep., but it works when one wants to start up. tires make a big difference- look at cons. reports for rating of how they perform in snow. you don't need snow tires if you get touring tires w/ good snow performance. i'm in oh, too.

interesting, zen... have you pulled the code? i paid justask.com and a lexus tech there for an answer and he said they many times end up being the accumulator leaking. this is for code 19 troubles.

where is this fuse? i have the same problem, but can't find the fuse on the car... nothing named 'trac'

i'm attempting to bleed to the abs and trac on our '92 ls. factory manual says to hook up hose, etc.. start the car and actuate the accumulator pump to pump out the fluid... how is this done? does just starting the car with the bleeder open automatically engage the pump? thoughts?

so mick, what was the solution? i now have the same problem. trac light on after a bit of driving. code 19- accum. pump cyclying too much. fluid is fine, etc...

no way... wait til 90k. how many stories have we heard of tim. belts ever breaking on lexi? and we would have heard...

i forgot to add, i replaced motor and trans mounts, too. i had thought maybe i hurt something that way... thoughts? anybody else have these problems?

I changed the whole shebang on my '92 LS 135k-- tim belt, water pump, distr, wires, plugs, idlers, etc... all OEM stuff. Started and run perfectly. After driving a few minutes CEL and TRAC off comes on. CEL code is 25 and i have factory book. i did some electrical testing per the trouble shooting and nothing definitive came up, though the two O2 sensor readings were not the same and so i have one of those coming... my question is, this 25 code lists about 10 things that it could be. O2 sensor is one down the list. fuel injector leaking, tim. belt skipping teeth, etc.. is others. IF i had put the belt on wrong (and i'm 99.99% sure i didn't as i checked and checked and it wasn't a prolbem and the car runs perfectly, etc..), would a tooth off cause drivability problems? is it obvious when the belt is on wrong, even by one tooth? then secondarily-- how weird it came on after the work-- apparently i did something somewhere. the O2 sensors are orig. at 135k. thoughts please? thanks.

check consumer reports... always good, unbiased info. based on that, i got a set of michelin pilot exalto's for my 91 ls. very very happy with them. quiet, etc... check tire rack, too. tirerack.com

hi all, i've searched everything and read everything and now have my 92 cluster apart on the kitchen table. i KNEW the 90-92 were different from the 93-94, but hoped some caps were the same to replace to fix my erratic gas gauge. does anyone know which caps to replace to fix this guage? lexls?? anyone? thanks much.

lexls?? any help here? i have a 92 w/ a fluctuating gas guage and all info on caps seems to be for 93-94... which caps do we replace, please?

beowulf? is that the same that is in the MUD forum? you and i have the same cars/trucks?? interesting.... i have 92 ls400 97 LC you? john

hi, i didn't take it out, as i couldn't see how it could come out. some have punched holes in it, which seems counterproductive? i just got the tank out of the car, sprayed brake cleaner in there and 'whisked' w/ a small paint brush, turn upside down, etc... seemed to work. be careful not to punch it.

the FACT that everyone ignores is that most, if not all manufacturers, including toyota, make their temperature guages with a large 'dead spot'. the gauge are not linear temp indicators! they are made so that only after a large temp increase, 20, 30, or so degrees, it starts indicating hot. the dead spot is so everyone doesn't run to the dealer every time the needle moves a bit-- it's basically an idiot needle. i just rebuilt our landcruiser's guage to be linear, according to their forum, and it now moves a bit all the time. you, therefore are playing with fire and running a hot engine without knowing it.

hi, have a 92. the deal is you can get a non-remote key for $25 at a good locksmith. the remote keys on this generation are not programmable, so you have to buy a new unlock module to match the new key-- maybe $250 or so. jc

barley, my experience: did pump change yr ago b/c of air control leak, no cleaning of either screens. after, i filled and turned wheels-- MUCH whining that took long time to subside. took for dirve, did fine, then PS went away and was like dirinvg w/ no power steer... then would come back. it did this for days-- i thought i messed something up... finally quit. then 2 mo. ago- did flush and soln. screen- and filled. not much whining and no dead power steering. can't explain. only hope to add to data... sorry. jc

hey all, after replacing p/s pump and air valve a yr ago, the pump is leaking again so i got around to doing what i should have then-- cleaning the solenoid screen. 92 w/ 125k. sure enough, it was clogged w/ black very little chunks. it had been off at some point b/c of scar marks on the thin nut. anyway, it NOTICABLY made the steering easy/lighter. can't believe difference- just liek others have said. i flushed system FIRST... hopefully, this will ease the pressure building up, thus easing the pump leakage. fyi...

threadcutter, thanks, but i've done my homework ad nauseum for 2 yrs now. yes, replaced the air valve, etc... i've gotten under it and see where the housing is leaking. again, peice of crap! :) jc

got a 92. i replaced ps pump with rebuilt from advanced auto (a-1 cardone brand) for $110 12 months ago and it's been leaking slightly for maybe 5 months now. peice of crap. but dealer price was $450 for new... took me 14 hours to do. could do it in 6 now, of course or less...

Hi, Just recently about getting other wheels for my 92. The shop in town has chromed lexus wheels for the car. My question is if anyone has had problems with these wheels? corroding? bending, etc... anything? advice? thanks.