Oil Leak Help

[Danelen]

Hi all. I just discovered this group and have been searching the threads for lots of great info for my 1999 ES300 86k miles (all by the first 10k by me and regularly serviced).

I need a little help with an oil leak I have noticed. I am 99.8% sure that this is not from either of the valve covers because I can't see 100% of the back one. I can't find any oil coming down from the top of the engine anywhere though so it all seems to be from underneath. It's a very small leak (maybe 1 drop after every time I drive it) and it seems to be accumulating in one of the lowest areas of what I am pretty sure is the transmission. I have also ruled out the oil pan/plug and oil filter area which is clean. Any ideas where the oil could be coming from in the lower part of the engine that would accumulate here?

Thanks in advance! Dan

I can't figure out how to add a picture so here is the webshots link of the area where the oil is accumulating (I wiped a lot off before I realized I should take a picture):

http://community.webshots.com/photo/527187...27196210ypCapr#

I should have proofread my sentances before I hit post, sorry!

Hi all. I just discovered this group and have been searching the threads for lots of great info for my 1999 ES300 86k miles (all by but the first 10k by me and regularly serviced).

I need a little help with an oil leak I have noticed. I am 99.8% sure that this is not from either of the valve covers because but I can't see 100% of the back one. I can't find any oil coming down from the top of the engine anywhere though so it all seems to be from underneath. It's a very small leak (maybe 1 drop after every time I drive it) and it seems to be accumulating in one of the lowest areas of what I am pretty sure is the transmission. I have also ruled out the oil pan/plug and oil filter area which is clean. Any ideas where the oil could be coming from in the lower part of the engine that would accumulate here?

Thanks in advance! Dan

I can't figure out how to add a picture so here is the webshots link of the area where the oil is accumulating (I wiped a lot off before I realized I should take a picture):

http://community.webshots.com/photo/527187...27196210ypCapr#

[mburnickas]

BTTT

Edited December 24, 2005 by mburnickas

[steviej]

rear main seal.

Another very common place for oil leaks. Search on it, been discussed at length.

steviej

Edited December 24, 2005 by steviej

[Danelen]

Thanks stieviej. I have since gone out and bought a chilton manual and searched the forums more (I did before but didn't know enough at the time to narrow the info out there - it's a learning process for sure!).

I was thinking that the RMS could be the culprit but then another poster (I think the army guy) described the RMS as on the left side (I assume left as your setting in the car not standing facing the engine) which is not the side where I think I am seeing it. I pulled the passenger side wheel off (and the splash cover inside the wheel well)and it seems to be accumulating around where the oil pan is attached so I am wondering if it could be cam shaft or crank shaft seals since it seems like it could be coming from that area (the Chilton manual is helping me alot to describe this!). Without the timing belt cover off I can't tell for sure though. I bought some tracer-dye and a blacklight just now and am going to figure out how to use that and see where new oil is and is not. It's a pretty slow leak though so it may take several times of looking for it before I see.

I am at 86k and my plan is to take it to Toyota and get everything done that could need done for a while - my list so far:

*Timing belt and new tensioner

*new water pump

*accessory belts

*PCV valve and grommet

*spark plugs

*spark plug wires

*full tranny flush (last done at 50k)

*coolant flush (done a few times before)

I am still working on the list but I am trying to get it in ship-shape and drive it for several more years. I want to fix this oil leak mainly because I am worried it could be a precurser to a bigger problem but I don't want to send the mechanic on a fishing expedition or just change my vc gaskets (what they all seem to want to do even though I am convinced it is not coming from there).

I'll let ya'll know how well the tracer-dye works.

BTW, mburnickas - what is BTTT?

Thanks!

Dan

[mburnickas]

BTW, mburnickas - what is BTTT?

Thanks!

Dan

BTTT= Back to the top. It makes the post or thread go back up to the very top for my "eyes" to see. :)

[OutCole'd]

Very common for valve cover gaskets to leak at that milege.

[camlex]

Rear valve cover

[Danelen]

Okay, the tracer-dye seems to work pretty good judging by the spot that glows under a blacklight right under my engine. I am sure it is not coming from anywhere high up on the engine (e.g. not vc gaskets) and not anywhere near the timing belt, camshafts, etc. as I previously suspected. I do have trouble in that I can't get really well postitioned underneath the car as my floor jack is small and only raises the car just high enough to take the wheel off. But, I can only see any glowing right at the bottom by where the engine and transmission are joined (to be specific it is dripping from a spot on the tranny right by the torque converter mounting bolts and the exhaust manifold brace. I wish I could jack it up about 2 more feet so I could look directly up from center.

Any ideas what could be leaking basically from the bottom center of the engine near where the tranny is mounted?

[lenore]

Engine rear main seal possibly. Hope not though for your sake.

[Danelen]

Engine rear main seal possibly. Hope not though for your sake.

That is what I have started narrowing this down to as well.

My father-in-law is has worked on cars a lot and says that a small leak in the RMS is not too big of a deal if you aren't bothered by the oil drip and you watch your oil level. He doesn't know lexus/toyotas but suggested I try some of that engine oil stop leak which may help.

What do ya'll think? I would like to get a feel for how serious this could become because if the shops want $400 just to do a timing belt, I imagine a rear main seal job would be $1500-$2000 dollars because it would have to take many times more work.

Somewhere in one of the threads on RMS leaks I thought I read someone say they had a RMS leak "patched"? I am assuming this means some of that anaerobic sealant was added?

I'd really like to keep this car but I don't want to get into a money pit either!

[khhoang]

my local Lexus dealership quoted me $665 p&l for rear main seal replacement. you should be able to get it done cheaper at Toyota or a reputable inde shop.

[ArmyofOne]

Thanks stieviej. I have since gone out and bought a chilton manual and searched the forums more (I did before but didn't know enough at the time to narrow the info out there - it's a learning process for sure!).

I was thinking that the RMS could be the culprit but then another poster (I think the army guy) described the RMS as on the left side (I assume left as your setting in the car not standing facing the engine) which is not the side where I think I am seeing it. I pulled the passenger side wheel off (and the splash cover inside the wheel well)and it seems to be accumulating around where the oil pan is attached so I am wondering if it could be cam shaft or crank shaft seals since it seems like it could be coming from that area (the Chilton manual is helping me alot to describe this!). Without the timing belt cover off I can't tell for sure though. I bought some tracer-dye and a blacklight just now and am going to figure out how to use that and see where new oil is and is not. It's a pretty slow leak though so it may take several times of looking for it before I see.

I am at 86k and my plan is to take it to Toyota and get everything done that could need done for a while - my list so far:

*Timing belt and new tensioner

*new water pump

*accessory belts

*PCV valve and grommet

*spark plugs

*spark plug wires

*full tranny flush (last done at 50k)

*coolant flush (done a few times before)

I am still working on the list but I am trying to get it in ship-shape and drive it for several more years. I want to fix this oil leak mainly because I am worried it could be a precurser to a bigger problem but I don't want to send the mechanic on a fishing expedition or just change my vc gaskets (what they all seem to want to do even though I am convinced it is not coming from there).

I'll let ya'll know how well the tracer-dye works.

BTW, mburnickas - what is BTTT?

Thanks!

Dan

Wow, my info does help people LOL. Iam "that army guy" ;)

the RMS is a fairly complicated repair. expect it to run you between $650 and $800 for that repair alone. at a toyota dealer, expect all those other repairs to run well over $1,000 altogether. i think a TB/WP is like $700 by itself.

I noticed you are in houston. Drive it up to Jason at JP Importz here in Dalas Texas (im here right now on leave). He is a 3.5 hr drive and will save you tons when you tell him i sent you. BUT...if you dump $1800 into this car now, it is justified, you know how its been maintained, and dumping money inot another car will be a gamble. Fix it, consider it maintenance and move on. almost EVERY Lexus has a Repair bill over $1,000 at least once in its life. its becaus we as americans tend to let things go until they become problems. My ES250 had so much wrong with it, i ended up paying over $4,500 in repairs, and i still wasnt finished. That was kinda stupid, but a fun project. If you put $1800- $2,000 into this car, it should last another 5-10 years before it needs that much again.

Edited December 26, 2005 by ArmyofOne

[Danelen]

Armyofone, thanks! Your posts are very helpful.

I have been checking out Toyota shops and I found one that is very reasonable and easy to work with, Sterling McCall Toyato in HWY59/Bltwy8 area in Houston. We'll see how there work is but their prices seem to be fair for the work and getting it done should be pretty convenient.

The prices I got are:

Timing belt - $287 (I forgot to ask about TB tensioner but I've heard I may want to do that too)

drive belts - $21 - (just the cost of the parts since they're doing the TB)

PCV/Grommet - $16

Spark plugs - $146 (they don't recommend doing the wires unless the see a problem with them)

Coolant flush - $50

Brake fluid flush - $88

Tranny flush w/chemical treatment - $169

They're also going to check out the water pump while doing the TB but they said they don't recommend changing it unless it needs it which would be about $350 parts and labor (in conjunction with the TB change).

Then they are going to inspect my oil leak. Since the work above is all well within reason, I think if it is the RMS and it is less than $800 I am going to do it. If it's much more than that I may just live with the leak, which really seems to only be a problem in that if I spring another oil leak I may not notice it as easily since I will think it is the RMS leak. I bought some oil stop leak liquid and will probably try that after this work is done.

Thanks again for all the help!

Dan

[camlex]

Hello,

When i did trans. flush i requested not to do trans. flush with chemical treatment. There is a good mechenic in houston, where i go. I never go to dealer after my vehicle go out of warranty. why you needs brake fluid flush?

Hope this helps.

[Danelen]

Hello,

When i did trans. flush i requested not to do trans. flush with chemical treatment.

My last tranny service was at 51k and they did this so I assumed it was helpful for removing build-ups and figured it couldn't hurt for and extra $40 or so? Maybe I am wrong about this?

There is a good mechenic in houston, where i go. I never go to dealer after my vehicle go out of warranty.

why you needs brake fluid flush?

Well, my thinking is that since brake fluid absorbs water over time (esp. after a year or so) which causes it to become less effective and since Houston is about the most humid place in the country ;-) I figure the brake fluid takes on moisture over time and should be flushed.

Hope this helps.

[camlex]

Hello,

Last 20 years, in houston i never had any problem with brakes.and I never flushed mine. because every 30-40K, you do brake job, you adds new fluid and bleed. but you feel that it's need to done. that's fine.

Thanks