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Spark Plug / Power Loss

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My 93, ES300 seems to loosing power, like when I accelerate it, it does not pick up as fast as it used to. I am thinking to change the sparks plugs & Air filter. I have never opened Manifold. Can anyone provide picture a picture to like from the service manual which I can follow. I have searched the forum and I had a little difficult time to follow the written instructions. Thanks in advance for all the help.

Beside changing plug and Air filter, should I change anything else.

Should I use Iridium Spark plug. If yes, I will highly appreciate if someone can tell me the part number for BOSCH, NGK or ND. Iridium IX Plug; BCPR6EIX-11 is available from advance auto parts. Is it ok to use this plug?? Thanks

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smasood Everyone else will tell you to use Iridium plugs.

I tell you to use what the factory uses. Which is the cheapest NGK, or Denso plug you can buy. NGK 6779's can be found for 1-1.50 on sale at most autoparts stores. The simple fact is with the horrible carbon buildup from EGR, you're not going to want to leave them in for 100,000 miles. Platnium plugs always claim to go for 60,000 miles+, then again the cheap NGK's will easily last the same amount of time.

So I vote no iridiums unless you just like using over expencive parts, and it makes you feel warm and fuzzy! :D

Change the distributor cap, and check the ignition timing. Factory timing is 10*btdc.

From memory to get the upper intake manifold off, you need to:

1) disconnect the air box hose from the throttlebody

2) disconnect the throttle cable

3) disconnect the transmission kick-down cable (next to throttle cable)

4) reach behind the intake and remove the EGR pipe (12mm)

5) Remove the coolant line that goes in to the throttlebody (that's the in)

6) Remove the coolant line comming out of the EGR pipe (that's the out)

7) Remove the throttle position sensor cable

8) Remove the Idle Control Valve (ICV) hose (from airbox) and electrical connector

9) Remove brake booster vacuum hose

10) Remove ACIS vacuum actuator hose

11) Unbolt the cold-start injector on the passanger side of the upper intake (10mm) and swivel it out of the way

Lastly Remove two 14mm nuts & the two 8mm allen bolts

Slowly start lifting the upper intake off the engine. That way if you forget anything (or I did) nothing will be damaged.

If you don't have emessions, you can completely remove EGR equipment from the intake & seal the holes (small sheet of wood & sheetmetal, with some RTV sealant does well if you don't have a block of metal). You can also take the EGR pipe off the manifold. The manifold threads are some JIC fitting type, but if you go get a 5/8" brass plumbing cap, that will thread. If you go a few turns - enough to crush the threads together, it will seal the pipe. (Don't keep going, obviously the iron pipe will destroy the brass threads!)

While the intake is off, you should throughly clean the inside of it. That'll gain lost horsepower back... You can also remove the throttle body (two bolts two nuts, 12mm I do believe) and take a dremel, or an air grinder and knife edge the top / bottom chamber split right behind the throttlebody.

Anyways. =) The intake is easy to take off once you've done it. It doesn't take 5 min if you don't have to deal with the EGR.

(It's unlikely you can pass emessions testing without EGR.)

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Honestly, it doesn't particularly matter.

WD-40 will work if you have it, carb cleaner is mostly the same thing.

Most of the actual cleaning is done by hand with a brush or a rag. isntead of dissolving stuff. So anything petrolium based, or a solvent will work well.

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  • 1 year later...

Are those 1mzfe instructions or different. I remember seeing a lot of hex nuts on mined. They seem kinda worn too...Does it make more sense to try and use drill bit hex to get those loosened or an actual hex key itself. I feel ike im making it worse when I used a hex key but drill bit didnt sound like a good idea...please advise.

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