Jump to content

99 Lexus Es300 Maintanence


Recommended Posts

I Just bought a 99 Lexus ES300 117k miles with a price under $9000 as my first car. I am the third owner. The first owner run 107k miles and the second one run 10k miles. The car like new and runs smoothly. Every thing is good except the cooling effect.

I searched both this forum and the clublexus and feel I need to do something below:

1. Changing timing belt and water pump (maybe include cam& crank seels, coolant O-ring, timing belt tensioner and pulley). I lived in Rochester, NY. After got hte advice of my friends, I found that one garrage named Integarity need $500 for TB and water pump, the dealer Dorschel need $700 for the same thing. There are other garrages, Mac's II and Nakis here. Which one Do you feel I need to go, the dealer or a cheaper garage?

2. I want to Change the oil and fluid. Can I do it myself? I am a greenhand.

3. I want to replace 4 tires. Lexusfreak recommend Falken ZE 512. I can get 4 such tires(205/65/15 94H) online (http://www.vulcantire.com/ze512_60_t.htm) with $41 each and mount them in a garrage. The fee is about $50 for mount. I found these tires need $66 each in Sears. Does this price include mount and alignment? Can I mount them myself?

4. Do I need to repair the A/C? I can open the moonroof to cool down.

Thanks for your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheap is not always the best option especially with high-end vehicles. Consider shopping around for quotes at your local Toyota dealerships. I personally wouldn't go through the hastle of changing the oil myself since its not an expensive service plus it can be done by either Toyota or Valvoline...etc. You might want to call Sears for pricing and service details regarding the tires. Is the A/C broken? If so, its going to be an expensive hit to your pockets to replace. Do a search on this site and research what other people have chosen to do, unless your satisfied with the moonroof as a substitute....even in the humid rainy weather????

I would have sold u my 98' ES300 Black/Ivory 92k miles for $10,900 including 90k mile service plus Timing Belt, Tune-Up and fairly new tires....working A/C ;-) but $9k for a 99' aint that bad of a deal as long as its in good mechnical condition...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheap is not always the best option especially with high-end vehicles.  Consider shopping around for quotes at your local Toyota dealerships.  I personally wouldn't go through the hastle of changing the oil myself since its not an expensive service plus it can be done by either Toyota or Valvoline...etc.  You might want to call Sears for pricing and service details regarding the tires.  Is the A/C broken? If so, its going to be an expensive hit to your pockets to replace.  Do a search on this site and research what other people have chosen to do, unless your satisfied with the moonroof as a substitute....even in the humid rainy weather????

I would have sold u my 98' ES300 Black/Ivory 92k miles for $10,900 including 90k mile service plus Timing Belt, Tune-Up and fairly new tires....working A/C ;-) but $9k for a 99' aint that bad of a deal as long as its in good mechnical condition...

Thanks for the advice.

For the A/C, I think I was strict with it. I test it again. It still work. My friend told me that it need 5 mins to cool down in normal cars. Sorry for the wrong info.

The previous owner does not have a complete maintanence records. The battery and the wiper are new. Oil was changed before 3500miles. No other information.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Toyota warrenties the Lexus v6 engines for life against sludge damage. As long as you prove you have "attempted" to maintain the vehicle. Prove you've changed the oil in the last 7 months, or 10,000 miles.

The OEM recommended interval is normally 4,500 miles for bad conditions. 7,500 miles for normal use. Oil changing is easy.

Take the cap off

take the plug off

out pours 4.5 quarts for a 3vz-fe, or 5 quarts for a 1mz-fe.

Then take the filter off.

Stick your finger in a new quart of oil and rub the rubber O-Ring on the new oil filter to lube it so it seals.

Screw the new filter on hand tight, then turn another 3/4 turn

Put a cleaned drain plug back on (Not too tight, just enough to snug it!)

In goes 4.5-5 quarts.

An oil filter wrench helps (strap kind) so does one of the big $2.50 plastic drain pans at parts stores.

Synthetic fluids are the best... Use those. I love maintinance. It's fun. Get's you involved, tons cheaper, and the car's stay on the road longer.

I've seen dealers (not just Lexus, but commonly that type of dealer) try to charge, $70-$100usd for an oil change that only changed 5-6 quarts!? You can change your own oil for the cost of fluid, and a $2.50-$4.00 Toyota filter, depending on which of the two you buy!

The only downside is time... If you don't want to spend the time doing it, that's your call. You're also set up to do more frequent maintinance than someone waiting until they feel like going in somewhere.

Most importantly better quality work, and parts are done by home mechanics. Just this past Tuesday my Toyota tech best friend was telling me some idiot went a put transmission fluid into a new master cylinder down at his dealer.

You're much better off all around to do any work you can yourself. It simply get's done at a much higher quality, with less chance of something absolutely retarded happening.

$10-20 Haynes manual (for a Camry) is the best thing you can buy.

For anyone with a 97-01 ES (or a 94-95 1mz-fe) would find the complete gen4 Toyota Camry repair manual handy. It use to be in the FAQ for the Camry on Toyota Nation. Keep in mind the 1mz intakes changed in '97, and the ES 300 got vvt-i, when the Camry didn't until after. Otherwise... Same stuff!

The A/C stays untouched until there is an actual problem. Normally the refridgerant leaks out at some point. It can be refilled. I've done the Freon in this old ES, and I did R134a in my old Corolla. Boils down to buying a small amount of the gas, and one of the little kits. Check the pressure on the low pressure hose. if it's low, you add if not, it's fine. ;)

Good advice on the tires.

Get the water pump & timing belt put on anywhere. I've personally had bad luck with the OEM Toyota timing belt on my engine after I ported & polished the heads. (I blew a head gasket).

Let's see! Here's a new OEM Toyota belt that failed in under 20 miles. It split at over 140mph. (Was testing the new work I had done at the time) needless to say... The engine ran like a dog, but I did get back home. Timing was correct...

timingbelt.jpg

And this Delco belt ran for roughly ten min, then snapped in half...

MVC-261F.jpg

I got fed up with all of it... Bought the Goodyear part and it's been great for a few thousand miles.

The cost was $25 for the Goodyear, $33 for the Delco, and $45 for the Toyota OEM part... I wasn't about to spend $45 for more failing Toyota belts when I could spend half the cost to have someone else's fail!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to correct a few things here. The warranty per Lexus gives (in writing for IMZ V-6 engines) is not a lifetime one as posted above, it is 8-years from purchase date and un-limited miles. From the letter I have per Lexus.

“Toyota and Lexus owners manuals stipulate oil changes every 7,500 miles or six months, whichever comes first, under normal driving conditions, and 5,000 miles or four months under severe driving conditions.

Toyota's new policy is a dramatic change from a so-called Special Policy Adjustment begun in February 2002. Amid increasing criticism for refusing to deal with the problem, Toyota notified 3.3 million owners of the affected engines that sludge-related repairs would be covered.

Toyota Motor Sales U.S.A. Inc. says it will pay repair costs for sludge damage in cases where customers can provide proof of "reasonable efforts" to maintain the vehicle.”

Again all this is per Lexus.

I do not know about belts, but 99% of people that have had TB put on at a Lexus dealer have had zero problems. After have trying some non-OEM parts (brakes, rotors, pads, hoses, plugs, belts, wires, rads, etc) in the past on various auto’s I have owned (thoughout the years); in some areas non OEM are not up to snuff with things. When the price is ½ or cheaper, think about it. You get what you pay for. Again this is my experience on it take it for what you wish.

I paid $740 (all OEM) for TB, Waterpump, seals etc when I had mine done at lexus. Yes, it cost a little more put I do not trust little mom-pops garages to do this work on my car either; and my inlaws own garages and so do friends. My car is 1998 and had the work done in 2005. That is $100 per year and that is cheap. You mess up the pump you are back to square 1 again. Again, you purchesed a $35K car (when new), a little jingle to keep it runing as new it a drop in the bucket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The way you are thinking mburnickas is what is keeping lexus dealerships prices so high,b\c many rich people think that way.

That is ignorant thinking, i can bet that moms-bpops garage will do a better job then the lexus dealership,just like u will do a better job then all of them(if u wiould be able to do it).

Just b\c u bought a 35K car doesnt mean you should buy the best everything for it. Why dont u order 100 octane gas for it? im sure it burns better and leavs less carbon deposits.

Also for people like me where i have a 1996 thats worth about 5.5k spending that 740 is like 1\6 the price of the car,as opposed to getting it done elsewhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I Just bought a 99 Lexus ES300 117k miles with a price under $9000 as my first car. I am the third owner. The first owner run 107k miles and the second one run 10k miles. The car like new and runs smoothly. Every thing is good except  the cooling effect.

I searched both this forum and the clublexus and feel I need to do something below:

1. Changing timing belt and water pump (maybe include cam& crank seels, coolant O-ring, timing belt tensioner and pulley). I lived in Rochester, NY.  After got hte advice of my friends, I found that one garrage named Integarity need $500 for TB and water pump, the dealer Dorschel need $700 for the same thing. There are other garrages, Mac's II and Nakis here. Which one Do you feel I need to go, the dealer or a cheaper garage?

2. I want to Change the oil and fluid. Can I do it myself? I am a greenhand.

3. I want to replace 4 tires. Lexusfreak recommend Falken ZE 512. I can get 4 such tires(205/65/15 94H) online (http://www.vulcantire.com/ze512_60_t.htm) with $41 each and mount them in a garrage. The fee is about $50 for mount. I found these tires need $66 each in Sears. Does this price include mount and alignment? Can I mount them myself?

4. Do I need to repair the A/C? I can open the moonroof to cool down.

Thanks for your help.

I replied to your questions on CL lsu, so same applies here. B)

:cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

kyle0k

The way you are thinking mburnickas is what is keeping lexus dealerships prices so high,b\c many rich people think that way.

Really that was the cheapest price around and I trust Lexus and their own dealers better then I do mom/pop shops (or people during side jobs). Lexus will stand behind their dealers, other shops, nope.

Also I am far from being rich but I am not cheap on the same boat.

That is ignorant thinking, i can bet that moms-bpops garage will do a better job then the lexus dealership,just like u will do a better job then all of them(if u wiould be able to do it).

Really. In the past every local shop I try to get either screws something up, do things quick, make a mess out of the car, scratches the car, if they even get to it that day, and put non-oem parts on it. I do not trust little shops or people doing side jobs since most do not stand behind there work and Lexus will not be on your side if something happens. Also I could do it, but why? I can go spend the time doing it, parts needed etc etc. I did not go to engineering school to spend 5 hours under a hood getting all messy, hot etc. I will take my job at work over messing with coolant, timing belt etc.

Just b\c u bought a 35K car doesnt mean you should buy the best everything for it. Why dont u order 100 octane gas for it? im sure it burns better and leavs less carbon deposits.

I did not buy a Lexus to put $0.99 spark plugs in it, fram oils filters, or some weird named parts on it. I do not have carbon problems on my car, never have either.

Also for people like me where i have a 1996 thats worth about 5.5k spending that 740 is like 1\6 the price of the car,as opposed to getting it done elsewhere.

If you can’t afford $740 for all the parts I had done, for example in my timeline 7-years, you better not own a Lexus. Again that is $740 over 7 years or $0.29 a day….It is like people buying a $50K SUV and then whine and complain and the gas or parts. Hell, my r/c heli cost 6X the service...Again, $740 to put into a car, is a drop in the bucket.

Also, next time I would read LOC rules and not call someone "ignorant". Bad thing to do....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well said mburn! B) ;) Having said that, I personally do trust my independent repair shops I deal with & not the dealer (but for major service like the TB & WP.....the dealer is where I will go). B)

:cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, next time I would read LOC rules and not call someone "ignorant". Bad thing to do....

Correct!!! We can have intelligent discussion without resorting to insults.

Keep it civil.

Personally, I like the service at the dealership just because of the vast numbers of Lexus vehicles and problems that they see, = experience. Far more than most mom and pop shops. However, I would not hesitate to use a inde shop if they have experience with Lexus and Toyota. (ie: JP Impotz)

steviej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey,

I am about to buy a 99 ES300. Looking at one with 73,000 miles. It's pretty loaded up and was primarily used as a lease vehicle in Florida (presumably not too much bad weather. I live in the northeast so that will change.)

Do you recommend getting an extended warranty? I can get a 2-year/24,000 warranty that will basically cover everything ($100 deductible). Of course the dealer recommends it but in my experience warranties are almost never worth it unless of course you get it free with a new car. (can't beat free)

What are the standard problems my Lexus will likely run into as it heads toward 100,000 miles? Will the costs make the warranty worth it? I assume that the electrical components could be troublesome and expensive.

any help and/or tips would be appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

baudib--Welcome to LOC :D

The warranty is up to you. If something goes wrong, would you want to try and fix it? When I got my car (1998 CPO) it had a 3 year or 100K mile warranty. It got used twice in three years; once for an EGR valve and the other was for a stuck MAF sensor (due to a mouse). Other then that, nothing.

I would look to see what the warranty really covers. Maybe worth it maybe not. Also what does the warranty cost? If it is a high amount I personally would say no, it is not worth it.

Based on the low miles, did they do the timing belt yet? The car will need on at 90K so I would ask now and say some $$$$. Also is it CPO? What maintance was done in the past? Brakes, oil, tranny fluid, brake fluid, PS fluid, coolant, etc?

So far I am very happy with my car. Keeps going and going.

The way I look at warranties is this, “Is the car that bad that I NEED it?” Then when a sales person asks me, I say the same thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey thanks for the advice and welcome.

actually now I am looking at a better model, newer and less miles.

Compare:

1999 ES300 73,000 miles (4 owners, mostly lease vehicle)

2000 ES300 46,000 miles (1 owner)

The 2000 costs $15,999 vs. $12,995 for the 99. Of course I will try to get something off the sticker price. The 99 seems to be slightly more pristine but the problems with the 00 are almost laughably minor.

Also I am sorta sketched out by the dealer of the 99, which is why I started looking for another one. The warranty offered on the 00 is actually cheaper and seems to cover the same things (key for me is drive train and major electrical components). Figure I might as well get it; if I get the 99 I'd be looking to trade it in after maybe two years 30,000 miles or so but with just 46,000 miles on the other, it might be a long-term keeper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey thanks for the advice and welcome.

actually now I am looking at a better model, newer and less miles.

Compare:

1999 ES300 73,000 miles (4 owners, mostly lease vehicle)

2000 ES300 46,000 miles (1 owner)

The 2000 costs $15,999 vs. $12,995 for the 99. Of course I will try to get something off the sticker price. The 99 seems to be slightly more pristine but the problems with the 00 are almost laughably minor.

Also I am sorta sketched out by the dealer of the 99, which is why I started looking for another one. The warranty offered on the 00 is actually cheaper and seems to cover the same things (key for me is drive train and major electrical components). Figure I might as well get it; if I get the 99 I'd be looking to trade it in after maybe two years 30,000 miles or so but with just 46,000 miles on the other, it might be a long-term keeper.

Go for the 2000 model.......the tail lights alone are worth it lol. B) Is all service & warranty work accounted for on this car? If so you might want to consider passin on the extended warranty. B)

:cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership