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Posted

To see which allows more dirt to this; do an oil test. It will cost cout $70 but that is something to go by.

Do an oil test with an K&N and do another with the paper air filter you like. Look at Si levels and wear numbers.


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Posted
K&N filters are just fine as long as you clean and oil proplerly, which you don't have to do very often.  I got the TRD filter for my IS300 since it's engineered for Toyota and has a really good fit.  It's been on there now for 2 years.  I had a K&N drop in filter on my '94 Firebird LT1 for 10 years and it was still on there when I sold the car.  The very fact that you have a lower pressure drop across the filter improves the dirt holding and the filtration ability as well.  I've had this type filter on 4 different cars now, with nary a problem.  Add it to a good intake pipe and you will actually gain some noticeable HP.

The best way to get whatever performance or mpg gains there may be is to reset the ECU after installation, so it learns the "new" airflow right away.

I guess I'm showing my ignorance here, but what's an "ECU" and how is it reset?

:blushing:

Posted
K&N filters are just fine as long as you clean and oil proplerly, which you don't have to do very often.  I got the TRD filter for my IS300 since it's engineered for Toyota and has a really good fit.  It's been on there now for 2 years.  I had a K&N drop in filter on my '94 Firebird LT1 for 10 years and it was still on there when I sold the car.  The very fact that you have a lower pressure drop across the filter improves the dirt holding and the filtration ability as well.  I've had this type filter on 4 different cars now, with nary a problem.  Add it to a good intake pipe and you will actually gain some noticeable HP.

The best way to get whatever performance or mpg gains there may be is to reset the ECU after installation, so it learns the "new" airflow right away.

I guess I'm showing my ignorance here, but what's an "ECU" and how is it reset?

:blushing:

It's the engine control computer. To reset, just disconnect the car battery negative (black) wire for 15 to 20 minutes and then reconnect. This resets the computer to the original default settings. You will probably have to reset the clock and your radio station presets afterwards. The procedure is usually in the owner's manual, to be used in case a car fails emissions testing, and often will bring the engine back to a condition where it will pass the emissions test. It basically puts the computer back to the settings it had when the car was brand new.

Posted

Genuine Toyota air filters could be the best, but since Toyota doesn't hardly spend any money advertizing them in car magazines or on internet websites or package them in flashy, exciting looking packages many owners won't give them a second thought. For those that care to know about factory filters, here is some info.:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mast.../airfiltera.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mast.../airfilterc.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mast.../airfilterd.jpg

Posted
K&N filters are just fine as long as you clean and oil proplerly, which you don't have to do very often.   I got the TRD filter for my IS300 since it's engineered for Toyota and has a really good fit.  It's been on there now for 2 years.   I had a K&N drop in filter on my '94 Firebird LT1 for 10 years and it was still on there when I sold the car.  The very fact that you have a lower pressure drop across the filter improves the dirt holding and the filtration ability as well.  I've had this type filter on 4 different cars now, with nary a problem.  Add it to a good intake pipe and you will actually gain some noticeable HP.

The best way to get whatever performance or mpg gains there may be is to reset the ECU after installation, so it learns the "new" airflow right away.

I guess I'm showing my ignorance here, but what's an "ECU" and how is it reset?

:blushing:

It's the engine control computer. To reset, just disconnect the car battery negative (black) wire for 15 to 20 minutes and then reconnect. This resets the computer to the original default settings. You will probably have to reset the clock and your radio station presets afterwards. The procedure is usually in the owner's manual, to be used in case a car fails emissions testing, and often will bring the engine back to a condition where it will pass the emissions test. It basically puts the computer back to the settings it had when the car was brand new.

Thanks for the info !!!!!

:D

Posted
Genuine Toyota air filters could be the best, but since Toyota doesn't hardly spend any money advertizing them in car magazines or on internet websites or package them in flashy, exciting looking packages many owners won't give them a second thought.  For those that care to know about factory filters, here is some info.:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mast.../airfiltera.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mast.../airfilterc.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y189/mast.../airfilterd.jpg

I assume the 97 - 01 ES models are the exact same (including part numbers) as te 97 - 01 Camry? :unsure: Just more expensive at the Lexus dealer parts counter? ;)

:cheers:

Posted

Yep, mechanically the '97-'01 Lexus ES300 & Toyota Camry are identical, so you can buy all your routine maintenance items at a Toyota dealer and save 50-75% !

Posted
To see which allows more dirt to this; do an oil test. It will cost cout $70 but that is something to go by.

Do an oil test with an K&N and do another with the paper air filter you like. Look at Si levels and wear numbers.

Sorry, but that doesn't measure the filtration efficiency of the filter. Not to mention that it's nearly impossible to compare the test results (unless your driving is identical).

Posted
To see which allows more dirt to this; do an oil test. It will cost cout $70 but that is something to go by.

Do an oil test with an K&N and do another with the paper air filter you like. Look at Si levels and wear numbers.

Sorry, but that doesn't measure the filtration efficiency of the filter. Not to mention that it's nearly impossible to compare the test results (unless your driving is identical).

All I am saying is that if you drive the same roads in the car (ie driving to work everyday) and nothing changes much, that you will see the delta from the filter. I personally could care careless about efficiency alone. I want the capacity also. They both need to be up there.

Unless you drive on a dirt roads etc it will at least give an idea (close one at that) on what is going on with the filter. Anyone can post numbers from a manufacture but I at least know what results I had with both filters. You will see the higher ppm numbers with oil glazzed. They stick out pretty good. Nevermind the filter, cleaner and oil price.

Example, for years (11+) I drove (and still do the same road(s) to work) and I used an oil glazzed for 24K miles (in my old F-350 diesel); then and went back to paper filter, the Si # went down... a lot with paper. Using oil glazzed was over 20 ppm in Si. Went to paper and it went down to 8 to 12ppm. That is pretty good delta since diesel use lots and lots more air then gasers. Maybe that is not very good test results but a 60% reduction in Si is good in my eyes. Less SI means less dirt and the filter is working here.

But each to his own I guess. Have fun.

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