tdandkd Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 I'm still trying to decide what parts to buy. So far I think I'm going with the KYB mounts with bearings, the Lexus lower and upper spring insulator and the lexus spring seats. One thing that makes me wonder though, everywhere I look for the strut mounts, they say that they fit the following: 1999-2003 Lexus RX300 1999: 6Cyl 3.0L "Gas, Fuel Injected, VIN "F", 1MZFE" Base My vin doesn't start with an "F" so I'm not sure what this means. If anyone could shed any light on this I would appreciate it. Also, please let me know if the parts list sounds complete. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mecklenburg Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 From my experience with the same problem on a 1997 Lexus ES300, the strut mounts are designed as such that you cannot torque the center strut bolt too tightly without binding the strut mount bearing. Look at the service manual. The 3 bolts that secure the mount to the frame are 59 lbs and the center strut bolt is about 29 lbs. My mistake, I tightened the center bolt until it stopped and cranked it down to about 70, based on larger bolt size. I had creaking when turning or going over bumps at low speed. I also noticed this later when I took it apart and turned the strut mount by hand. The problem cannot be fixed by applying oil, as some threads here suggest. And in my case, a new strut mount would have been a waste of money (I tried this too, and took them back). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicLX470 Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 I had a similar problem with my LX470 and it was not the suspension parts at all, it was the CV joints that needed replacing. Have you checked those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenore Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 From my experience with the same problem on a 1997 Lexus ES300, the strut mounts are designed as such that you cannot torque the center strut bolt too tightly without binding the strut mount bearing. Look at the service manual. The 3 bolts that secure the mount to the frame are 59 lbs and the center strut bolt is about 29 lbs.My mistake, I tightened the center bolt until it stopped and cranked it down to about 70, based on larger bolt size. I had creaking when turning or going over bumps at low speed. I also noticed this later when I took it apart and turned the strut mount by hand. The problem cannot be fixed by applying oil, as some threads here suggest. And in my case, a new strut mount would have been a waste of money (I tried this too, and took them back). Just wanted to caution you, the shock has a "d" flat cut in it where the bearing and strut mount go. It is possible to missalign this and torque it down and bind the bearing. Sorry wish I had a picture. The strut if mounted correctly will not bind no matter how tight you torque the nut. As for the three bolts there should be no problem. Also the mount is marked to go only in one direction facing forward. If you mount it incorrectly it will bind the strut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mecklenburg Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 From my experience with the same problem on a 1997 Lexus ES300, the strut mounts are designed as such that you cannot torque the center strut bolt too tightly without binding the strut mount bearing. Look at the service manual. The 3 bolts that secure the mount to the frame are 59 lbs and the center strut bolt is about 29 lbs.My mistake, I tightened the center bolt until it stopped and cranked it down to about 70, based on larger bolt size. I had creaking when turning or going over bumps at low speed. I also noticed this later when I took it apart and turned the strut mount by hand. The problem cannot be fixed by applying oil, as some threads here suggest. And in my case, a new strut mount would have been a waste of money (I tried this too, and took them back). Just wanted to caution you, the shock has a "d" flat cut in it where the bearing and strut mount go. It is possible to missalign this and torque it down and bind the bearing. Sorry wish I had a picture. The strut if mounted correctly will not bind no matter how tight you torque the nut. As for the three bolts there should be no problem. Also the mount is marked to go only in one direction facing forward. If you mount it incorrectly it will bind the strut. Thanks Lenore; I did note the face-out alignment marks on the rubber isolator, and both mount pieces. I also turned the strut shaft so that the notch aligned with the top mount cut, and then made sure it stayed in the top mount as I tightened the nut. I don't recall it being a "D" cut, but rather rectangular on my 97 ES300. I tightened it enough to test that it didn't wobble on the bolt shaft, and turned freely, but if I torqued down the nut, I had difficulty turning the top of the mount and it creaked. So that's why I assumed I'd over torqued a bad design, and backed off both nuts and am now creak free. I had no creaking sound before I changed my struts as well. The nut I'm using is a lock nut, and it is snug, just not torqued down. I also have the service manual, so I have pics of what you are describing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mecklenburg Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 [quote name='lenore' post='372341' date='May 20 2009, 02:04 PM' Just wanted to caution you, the shock has a "d" flat cut in it where the bearing and strut mount go. It is possible to missalign this and torque it down and bind the bearing. Sorry wish I had a picture. The strut if mounted correctly will not bind no matter how tight you torque the nut. As for the three bolts there should be no problem. Also the mount is marked to go only in one direction facing forward. If you mount it incorrectly it will bind the strut. Lenore; I tore it apart again because leaving the strut shaft bolts lightly torqued didn't work either. In fact, one of them began to rattle over bumps. So after removing the struts again, I looked it over and even assembled it without the spring to test the bearing movement. I concur with what you are saying about how torquing that center bolt should not matter. It does not squeeze the two plates down onto the bearing as I assumed, it only secures the top plate to the strut shaft. The bottom plate only applies pressure on the bearing due to the spring. And as you noted, I did align this top plate with the slots on the strut shaft. You can see my setup from the attached photos. So, I'm back to what is causing the creaking? I have no noise when the strut is assembled without the spring. Placing the spring into the equation, and the strut mount becomes very hard to turn by hand and I get the creak or groan. I did not have this problem with the old worn out struts. The new struts are Monroe from Autozone. They also turn freely and make no noise without the spring. With the spring in the equation, I attempted to "hear" the noise source by listening through a long socket extension, but could not isolate the noise location. My new theory is that the strut itself is causing the noise, but I’ll have to search the forums and try Monroe customer service to figure that out. I ended up putting the strut back on the car. At least I feel its safe to drive, just annoying. Thanks for the feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artbuc Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 When you get a definitive answer as to what was wrong, please post it. I replaced my strut mounts and nothing changed. Same noises, in the same area, etc. I am at a loss! Did you replace them personally or just pay to have them replaced? I can't imagine it making any noise if it actually had new strut mounts installed. If you payed to have them replaced I would check to make sure they were actually replaced or that they replaced the right thing. wouldn't be the first time someone payed for something that they didn't actually get. If you replaced them yourself then something is wrong somewhere. I removed them on my daughter-in-laws 99RX and actually repaired them and got rid of the noise. And it sounded nasty before I repaired them. Won't go into the reasons for repair vs replace but it had to do with critical time constraints. The noise is nasty because it is metal against metal! Y/t- Roger Roger, I just discovered this thread! How the heck did you repair the rubber bushing in the strut mounts????? Is there anything you can't fix?? :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
code58 Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 When you get a definitive answer as to what was wrong, please post it. I replaced my strut mounts and nothing changed. Same noises, in the same area, etc. I am at a loss! Did you replace them personally or just pay to have them replaced? I can't imagine it making any noise if it actually had new strut mounts installed. If you payed to have them replaced I would check to make sure they were actually replaced or that they replaced the right thing. wouldn't be the first time someone payed for something that they didn't actually get. If you replaced them yourself then something is wrong somewhere. I removed them on my daughter-in-laws 99RX and actually repaired them and got rid of the noise. And it sounded nasty before I repaired them. Won't go into the reasons for repair vs replace but it had to do with critical time constraints. The noise is nasty because it is metal against metal! Y/t- Roger Roger, I just discovered this thread! How the heck did you repair the rubber bushing in the strut mounts????? Is there anything you can't fix?? :D Art- It's even a little hard to explain, but time was such that I had no choice. The car was leaving at 4:00 AM the next morning for Seattle (when our grandson was in Ch. of Seat.) I didn't even know what the noise was, I only knew I couldn't stand it. When I got it apart and could see what the problem was I had no choice but to repair it. I turned the rubber around so that the side that hadn't had the pressure against it was now carrying the (camber) load. I remember reworking the metal some to tighten the fit up and somehow reworked things so that the end of the strut that is able to jump out of the hole on the down- stroke and then slam up against that edge where it make the noise that makes you sure the whole front end is ready to fall off, was no longer able to do that. If you remember, a very stressful time for me, and things were pretty much a fog. You might be able to figure out that I am very much in tune with a vehicle when I'm driving and absolutely can't stand ANY kind of abnormal noise. Somehow I lived through that period (figuring what I was going through was nothing compared to my grandson), but I only found the forums AFTER I had done all that work! :cries: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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