tdandkd

Yes, I am confident that they are good. I never had any issues with cylinder 2,4,6 which these were on. I had the same CEL codes a couple of days ago before I switched the coil packs. So, whether I use the old ones or the new ones, I get the same codes intermittently on cylinders 1,3,5. The one constant code I get is the P171. If the spark plugs were the issue, I wouldn't get a lean code, would I? Do you think all of the back spark plugs could have an issue at the same time? BTW, the car has 145,000 miles on it so I know that the spark plugs are due for a replacement. I just can't understand how the codes are for 1,3,5 all at the same time??? I also want to thank you for you help, I really do appreciate it.

Yesterday I cleared out my codes again and everything stayed off, for the day anyway. I put a bottle of Techron in with a full tank and this morning the CEL came back. I didn't have time to check the code but it drove ok on the way to work (about 7 miles). When I left work this afternoon, the light was still on but then started to blink but only for a few seconds then went back to a solid CEL. This happened twice. I know that whenever you see a blinking CEL, the computer will not shift into overdrive, and it wouldn't. Had to take the city streets home. Once I got home I pulled the codes again. P0300, 0301, 0303, 0305, P0171 and I think either P1133 or P1153. I know that the back coils are good, I swapped them with the front ones which were replaced not too long ago. I'm at a loss on this issue. I'll try cleaning the MAF sensor again tonight but I'm really not sure what else to do at this point.

Well, today I got a whole bunch of codes. P0171, P300, P301, P303, P305 and P1133 pending. Why couldn't it be P302,304,306? Would make my life a lot easier! I'll get them replaced and try the injector cleaner. Any cleaner you recommend?

I cleaned the MAF sensor last night, drove it today for about 3 miles before the CEL came back on. Fuel mileage seems ok, don't hear any misfires, don't know what to look at next. Maybe it is the A/F sensor but I'd rather not spend the $150 or so if that isn't it. BTW, the only code I am seeing now is the P0171.

TD- Go to www.obd-codes.com and make your way to DTC codes P0100-P0199, Fuel & Air metering. I wish I could post the direct link but I'm not computer literate enough. Excellent site, gives you some tips. You haven't had the air box messed with lately have you? There is a tube that gets knocked of the back side and causes problems. Have you checked for any vacuum leaks. The code says bank 1 too lean. I would make SURE there are NO vacuum leaks. I am assuming you know how a vacuum leak makes an engine run- not very smooth when it's running lean. I checked out a couple of vacuum lines that I could find, mainly the one leading to the air filter box and the one below it. They seemed to be ok. I didn't drive the car today but I did let it warm up in the driveway and it sounded ok. No CEL. Weird. I guess I'll just have to keep driving it and wait for the problem to repeat itself as I can't seem to duplicate it reliably. If you have any other suggestions as to where to look, I'm all ears. Thank you again for your advice, it is truly appreciated.

First off, thanks for your input, it may have prevented me from spending money needlessly! Anyway, I went back and cleared the codes and drove around until the CEL came back on. The engine sounded a little rough while sitting at stop lights but I'm not sure that I heard any misfires. I got home and checked the code and got a P0171. I cleared it again and tried again, this time getting the P0171 and a pending P1150. After letting it run a few minutes, the P1150 went away and I was left with just the P0171. The engine still doesn't exactly purr, but it really doesn't sound like a misfire today. Any thoughts?

I have a 1999 rx300 and just got a CEL indicating that the ignition coils in 1 and 3 are having multiple random misfires. I want to change them out but want to know if I can get an ignition coil from Toyota rather than Lexus? My local dealer is a complete rip off and would rather buy from Toyota if possible. Is this possible? If so, what part number am I looking for? I apologize if this has been answered before, I am having issues with the search function. Thanks.

Twist the Lexus logo on the cover after all the allen screws are out

I finally got the springs compressed and everything replaced. After I was done, the car sounded like something was rubbing in the front left so we jacked up the front end and the back end and turned the car on and put it in drive. I know that the ABS light will come on while everything is off the ground but then I got a check engine light. P0500, speed sensor malfunction. I cleared the code and it has not come back. Was this a result of the car being off the ground and putting it in drive and very slowly giving it just enough gas to move the wheels? I assume it is because the speedometer was measuring 20 mph but the car was almost at idle.

When I was compressing the spring, I was trying to get to the point at which I could move the spring seat freely or pull the spring away from the bottom insulator. I chickened out before that happened because it appeard that I was going to have to max out the compressors to do that and it just didn't seem right. I'll have another go at it this weekend.

What kind of spring compressor have you used? Do you use any of the ones sold at Harbor Freight? I used a loaner set from an auto parts store but I didn't feel like I could really place them where I wanted so I had to compress the spring from two coils that were too close together. It looked like I was going to actually have to tighten the compressors as far as they would go in order to get the springs loose. It made me a little nervous.

Well, I finally got them off, but it wasn't pretty. Now I have to try to get the springs compressed enough to remove the strut. It's a pretty short spring so it seems like I have to basically screw the spring compressors as far as they will go in order to remove the mount. I hope that doesn't put to much stress on everything.

I've got a ton of PB blaster on them and it didn't do much good. Maybe by the morning something will change. It just irritates me that I managed to get off the lower strut bolts that have never been removed in over 8 years with no problem whatsoever and these stupid bolts are giving me grief over poor design.

I was trying to replace my front strut mounts tonight and got everything loosened up but the stabilizer bar link. I could not get this disconnected from the strut. I soaked the it with a penetrating oil then used an allen wrench and a box end wrench and it the allen wrench started to strip the bolt. Is there an easier way to do this? If not, it looks like I'll need to cut the things off and order new ones from the dealer. I just can't believe that they didn't make flat edges anywhere on the back where you could use a wrench to keep the nut from spinning the whole connection. Any help would be appreciated. I do not want to spend another $100+ for new stabilizer links.

I have the same issue and am interested to find out what the problem is. I'm going to have to fix my blower motor as it is currently stuck on high only but will wait to hear suggestions regarding this smell problem in case something needs to be done in that area.

I'm still trying to decide what parts to buy. So far I think I'm going with the KYB mounts with bearings, the Lexus lower and upper spring insulator and the lexus spring seats. One thing that makes me wonder though, everywhere I look for the strut mounts, they say that they fit the following: 1999-2003 Lexus RX300 1999: 6Cyl 3.0L "Gas, Fuel Injected, VIN "F", 1MZFE" Base My vin doesn't start with an "F" so I'm not sure what this means. If anyone could shed any light on this I would appreciate it. Also, please let me know if the parts list sounds complete. Thanks.

I too am trying to find this part without going to the dealer. Any suggestions? I haven't been able to find it anywhere online.

I need to replace my front strut mounts as well and have a question as to which to buy. I called the dealer and they wanted $92 for the mount and $30 for the bearing. I can find KYB mounts with bearings for about $73. Would these work ok with the OEM parts? Or should I get the ones from the dealer? I just figured that I would go the cheaper route right now to see if the new mounts and bearings solved the noise issue and if not, I'd already have them to match up with a set of KYB struts that I would order next. Thanks for any insight.

I need to get to the blower motor for the heating and A/C and understand that it is behing the glove compartment. What is the easiest way to remove the glove compartment? Also, do you only need to disconnect the negative battery cable and shield it to disable the airbag system while working around the dash?