[quote name='lenore' post='372341' date='May 20 2009, 02:04 PM'
Just wanted to caution you, the shock has a "d" flat cut in it where the bearing and strut mount go. It is possible to missalign this and torque it down and bind the bearing. Sorry wish I had a picture. The strut if mounted correctly will not bind no matter how tight you torque the nut. As for the three bolts there should be no problem. Also the mount is marked to go only in one direction facing forward. If you mount it incorrectly it will bind the strut.
Lenore;
I tore it apart again because leaving the strut shaft bolts lightly torqued didn't work either. In fact, one of them began to rattle over bumps. So after removing the struts again, I looked it over and even assembled it without the spring to test the bearing movement. I concur with what you are saying about how torquing that center bolt should not matter. It does not squeeze the two plates down onto the bearing as I assumed, it only secures the top plate to the strut shaft. The bottom plate only applies pressure on the bearing due to the spring. And as you noted, I did align this top plate with the slots on the strut shaft. You can see my setup from the attached photos.
So, I'm back to what is causing the creaking? I have no noise when the strut is assembled without the spring. Placing the spring into the equation, and the strut mount becomes very hard to turn by hand and I get the creak or groan. I did not have this problem with the old worn out struts. The new struts are Monroe from Autozone. They also turn freely and make no noise without the spring. With the spring in the equation, I attempted to "hear" the noise source by listening through a long socket extension, but could not isolate the noise location. My new theory is that the strut itself is causing the noise, but I’ll have to search the forums and try Monroe customer service to figure that out. I ended up putting the strut back on the car. At least I feel its safe to drive, just annoying.
Thanks for the feedback.