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New member-2001 RX300-auction/salvage find, no key


unknwn

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This Lexus, new to me, is still in the impound lot with no keys. Thankfully, the doors weren't locked when I looked it over on inspection day.

I got the title, and will go to a local dealer today that states they are willing to supply me key code so I can get a key cut.

I'm aware that this won't allow me to start the car, but at this point I only need to unlock the steering column and place the shifter in 'neutral' so I can get it pulled onto a flatbed and delivered about 6 miles to my driveway.

The car is in mighty nice visual condition, the driver's seat is great! (no splits/tears, ect.) and the interior and engine compartment are all very clean and complete. Carpets are clean with no holes or deep staining.

Nearly new tires, and the most expensive battery WalMart sells.

The body has no dents,scratches,rust, missing -or- broken parts. White/grey scheme.

I'm truly surprised of it's condition, especially since it has a couple hundred thousand (+) on the clock, but it was obviously VERY well taken care of. As things stand I'm into it at under $800 -so far- .

I will undoubtedly need some help going forward, and hope I can find some knowledge here.

Once I get the car home and set up for repairs I will be pulling the ECU and commencing the master keys/computer programming rigmarole to -hopefully- get the car to start, and maybe(?) get a test-ride under my belt. 

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Got the car towed home. The key I had made from the VIN #/key code operates the driver's door lock, and -maybe- the passenger side too(?), but won't allow me to turn the ignition cylinder so that I can unlock the steering.

Being able to wheel it around to park it would be super helpful.

Any insights are welcome, please.

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Cut the bolts anchoring the ign. lock assembly to steering column, and competent locksmith picked the lock cylinder so that it could be removed. Now I got the chassis rolled/steered into a parking spot. Lifted the car off the driveway & onto stands.

Now I'm waiting for an ign. lock cyl., and reprogrammed ECU.

Hopefully I'll be starting the car this coming weekend. Working on the brakes rotors (been sitting for about 10+ months), and inspecting the car closely underneath. Nice condition. No rust/rot what so ever, dry boots on some linkage rods though. I'll be looking at trans. cooler metal piping a lot closer (popular enough that replacements are produced by Dorman)

I need battery hold down clamp and J bolt. And engine top trim cover would make me happier too.

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Good luck.

Before starting engine I would recommend change oil filter - fuel filter -and of course new oil - look at condition of spark plugs, but from reading what you have written before I believe that you have already done that.

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The vehicle's repair & maintenance info tells me that the fuel filter is an 'in-tank' version, attached to the pump/gauge assembly.

So, I will bypass that particular change-out until AFTER I've determined the car's viability. I've not experienced it running, or evaluated trans., ect. . I'm in process of verifying brakes for operation (sliding pins & associated), and found one of the parking brake shoes dropped it's friction material. (Less than $17 for a set on Amazon). 

The Key/ECU headache has proven to be stupidly expensive, so until I know the drive train is OK I won't be feeding it anymore extraordinary expenditure outlay. 

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Still, a terrificly nice condition car though.

I'm really looking forward to taking it for a drive.

I'm just not accustomed to a previous owner s take such good care of a 20+ year old car!

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