VBdenny Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 Hey all you clayheads, this worked out great. I detail cars on the side and charge people a fortune. I use a lot of clay in the process. Whta I usually use to wash cars is a big wash pad that is furry? not a spongue, but more like sheepfur or something. Anyway, I put the clay ine the middle and the fur kind of sticks to it an dholds it from slipping. Of course I never bring it off the surface, but if you accidently slip a little you are covered because you have about 4 or 5 seconds hang time before the furry things break loose. Now you can really polish the paint. The absolutel mirror surface I can achieve has gotten me big checks, hugs and kisses from half of my last customers. Saved me a lot of time as well. I can superclay a car in about an hour now. Then Maquires #1 twice. Then Maguire's #2 once Then.... Collinite 845 Insulator Wax until it won't take anymore. Oh yeah............ Finish up with Mother's Quick Detailers and you get hugs and money. I like both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW03ES Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 Interesting idea... My concerns would be that you aren't in tune enough to the clay through the wash mitt to tell if there are any large particles embedded in it which risks scratching. May or may not make a difference though. I'll try it! What kind of wash pad is it, sheepskin or chenille? Chenille kind of looks like a mop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99lsguy Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 Hey all you clayheads, this worked out great.I detail cars on the side and charge people a fortune. I use a lot of clay in the process. Whta I usually use to wash cars is a big wash pad that is furry? not a spongue, but more like sheepfur or something. Anyway, I put the clay ine the middle and the fur kind of sticks to it an dholds it from slipping. Of course I never bring it off the surface, but if you accidently slip a little you are covered because you have about 4 or 5 seconds hang time before the furry things break loose. Now you can really polish the paint. The absolutel mirror surface I can achieve has gotten me big checks, hugs and kisses from half of my last customers. Saved me a lot of time as well. I can superclay a car in about an hour now. Then Maquires #1 twice. Then Maguire's #2 once Then.... Collinite 845 Insulator Wax until it won't take anymore. Oh yeah............ Finish up with Mother's Quick Detailers and you get hugs and money. I like both. ← That's good stuff Denny Do you rotate / fold clay bar around to get a fresh side after each section of car.....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvermate Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 huh that is interesting and would save A LOT of time in the process.... but my only concern would be,,,,,,,making sure that you got all the embedded stuff off the paint.....when i do mine sometimes i have to go over the same spot 4-5 times to get all the grit off........ <_< i'll definately try it out, thanks for sharing......... :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VBdenny Posted October 27, 2004 Author Share Posted October 27, 2004 I guess it is the chimille one? I'm not sure, iI guess it could be sheepskin. As for the feel, you still have it, and regarding how well it does? GREAT! You can actually massage an area. I do sections until the soap gets thin, the rinse and reposition the clay. This worked so well, I realized that I can clay a car nearly twice as good in half the time. The first time I used clay, I followed the directions with the detailing spray. Just fine if you happen to have about 10 extra hours. The only thing you really have to be careful with using clay is not to drop it. Dropping you clay WILL destroy it and possibly encourage the use of bad language. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW03ES Posted October 27, 2004 Share Posted October 27, 2004 Yeah I've always used it with car wash soap, much faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckb Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 I have never used clay, but my car has hard water spots that wont wash off. Should I use clay? Anything special I need to do? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VBdenny Posted November 9, 2004 Author Share Posted November 9, 2004 I would sure give it a try. Use it with the car wash soap and spend time rubbing it well. Some people clay too fast just swiping the panels, I spend several minutes rubbing each section. It does pretty well with hard water stains if they are deposits not etching. Etching is really tough to remove but even with that the clay will minimize the effects. What I do next (after claying) is do each panel with Maquire's #1 Paint Cleaner. This really brings out the shine and preps the paint for waxing. I use Collinite Wax #845 Insulator Wax. I have tried nearly every wax made and this gives me the best results and incredible durability. I know others have other preferrences but I'll stick with the Collinite. It is a real high percentage carnuba wax so it really help to heat it in warm water before applying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW03ES Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 Claying should help, then maybe try some sort of chemical cleaner like vb's Meg's #1 Paint Cleaner or Klasse AIO. We were just in NJ because my fiance's grandmother passed away and the rain there is SO hard, I always get terrible waterspots afterwards so I'm used to removing them. If they're really bad though you'll need something abrasive and a buffer to get them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartkat Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 Something slightly acidic like vinegar and water, or even lemon or lime juice will take off water spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvermate Posted November 9, 2004 Share Posted November 9, 2004 i actually tried VB's idea, last weekend, and it worked great... :D saves a heck of a lot of time as well............although i clay and wax my car about every 2 months so there wasn't much embedded debris.........but it worked great about the water spots, any mild paint cleaner will take them off......if you are applying by hand try Color X, or meguirs # 6 cleaner/wax that outta do it. ;) but vinegar will work too, but it would be hard to spot clean it without having to re-apply all the other layers of product......meaning you would have to rewax the whole area.....but i guess you would do that anyway...... <_< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VBdenny Posted November 15, 2004 Author Share Posted November 15, 2004 Hey thanks Silver At least I know it wasn't just me thinking that. Regarding the waterspots. I have found so many that you just can't remove. It is becasue it etchs the surface. Happens a lot in the NE because of acid rain. The problem I have found isn't with cars that were waxed when new and always kept waxed, but rather with those that were neglected until the second owner bought them. Kind of like bird s... droppings, once it is etched, it is not coming out. At taht point it means rubbing compound, buffing... then repainting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW03ES Posted November 15, 2004 Share Posted November 15, 2004 Actually with a medium cut polish and an orbital buffer almost all waterspots can be safely removed, one certain paints it can just be hard to do by hand. VB, you ever given any thought to picking up a Porter Cable DA buffer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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