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Posted

im *BLEEP*ed i have 62,000 miles on myne and my dad just told me he lost track and hasnt changed the oil since 54,000~~?~?~!?#!@#@

so obviously i just took it and changed the oil,but i was *BLEEP*ed. atleast he always took care of it b4 this incident. but how bad is that,8 thousand miles.

what sucks is we have a two car garage so i have to keep my car outside from now on. thats bad for the car. already my belts and brakes are squeeking a little bit from all the raining . my dad says thats normal i just have to spray them with some lube or something liek that. he will do it for me this weekend.

Posted

your are probably safe with the oil especially if the car was mostly long highway trips for the 8k but I would not make a habit of this whatsoever.

keep a good coat of wax and sealer on the car and that should save the surface.

If the belts need dressing, it is time to change out the belts. They squeal because they are dried out, cracked, loose or all of the above.

DO NOT spray any lube on the rotor surface or the surface of the pads. This will greatly decrease brake effectiveness and can be dangerous. There may be some light grinding of the brakes when light pressure is applied on first application after rain. This is the removal of what surface oxidation has formed due to the moist air.

The whole brake squeal issue has been covered many times so try a search on "brake squeal", expand the time to 365 days and newer. There are many reasons and conditions in which brake squeal is heard.

steviej

Posted

oh yea i know about that,srry if i misleasd you. i would never spray anything on the rotors. i know i cant do anything about the brakes,bu !Removed! jsut annoying.

i learned this when i was like 12 on my mountain bike i sprayed some tire shine and it got all over the silver part where the brakes are. didnt stop very well.

hmm ill look into the belts. i just know it just started happeneing as soon as i started to keep my car outside. And my dad said that is why it needs dressing. but u might be right.

on average how how many miles does a belt saposed to last?

Posted

belts are rubber and exposed to extreme varitations in heat. They will also stretch over time and loosen up. If the car does not have automatic tensioners, then their tightness should be checked at least yearly or if they start to chirp (especially on startup). The 1MZ-FE engine does not have automatic tensioners.

If tightening does not quiet them, then replace them. They are reasonably cheap and can be done in the driveway if you know what to do. The PS belt is easily accessed from the right wheel well.

I routinely replace the belts at 45k miles.

A word of note, engine degreasers and detergents will also shorten belt life. These will tend to dry out the rubber and then the belt is prone to cracking.

steviej

  • 2 months later...
Posted
this kid is a ricer no doubt... <_<

jahon, please explain your comment, I am not following how it fits into this thread.

steviej

Posted
ok well i have a 96 es300,80 housand miles. is it worth it to do a tune up? liek isnt i 400 dollars?what will they do on the tuneup

also i got a question. how bad is it florring the car and takingt it up to liek 6K

i know its bad but i sometimes do it every once in a while liek race my friends and *BLEEP*. is it really bad to do it once in a while. like maybe once a week i do it in a day like 8 times.so rthatds liek 32 times a month.

im getting worried b\c i jsut got the car and my dad has had it for liek 5years and he said he hasnt fixed liek anything. nothing has broken. and that worries me. b\c its liek the longer u drive without getting a speeding ticket,the more and more u know u are about to get one.(Thats of course if u speed)

so its something liek that. im worried. what kind of things should i check that can fail.

ok, taking the car to 6,000 rpms will never hurt it. thats why the redline is there, get in the red, and you start doing damage, but even then, once in a GREAT while is ok.

a $400 tune up is rediculous, dont pay that, a speedy lube will charge you $180 or so and will change, air filter, PCV valve ( a nessesity after about 45K, it begins to push oil out the seals causing leaks), INTAKE CLEANING, and an oil change.

do a collant fulsh and a tranny drain and fill. do 2 drain and fills if the fluid is black, but dont do them back to back, do one, then wait 3K and do another.

the only thinsg internally that will fail in a motor, you cannot check visually w/out taking it a part, except MAYBE rod bearings (not sure onm toyotas, but on old chevy;'s you could just remove the oil pan and inspect them...)

Posted

i juist re-read the first page. well, let me tell you the importance of a PCV valve.

a PCV valve stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. what it does,is vents excess pressure from the engien, and feeds it back into the intake, where it is burned in the combustion process. if it clogs, it WILL cause leaks, because the excess pressure has nowhere to go, so it pushes itself out of the seals on the engine. some of these leaks can be expensive, liek the rear main seal (thats the seal between the engine and transmission, in which the trans has to be moved/removed to fix).

my car had the factory PCV valve on it when i bought it with 138K on it. it leaks 1 quart of oil every 2 weeks, give or take. the total list of leaks are:

Camshaft seals

Crankshaft seals

Rear Exhaust Manifold

Front Exhaust manifold

Oil Pump seal

Valve Cover Gaskets

and a few other random seals.

all of this amounts to a $2500 repair bill, if the rear main or the heads are leaking oil, add $1,000 to that.

basically, not replacing the $7.00 part, will lead to thousands OF dollars in damage down the road...better replace it.

ALSO:

DO NOT EVER PUT BELT DRESSING ONA BELT. IT WILL GET CAUGHT UP IN THE BEARINGS ON CERTIAN PULLEYS AND DESTROY THEM.

most places will replace your belts for about $85. less than that if everything is one belt (yours isnt, its 2, one for power steering and one for everything else).

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