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Vibration? Try To Change The Transmission Mounts


flanker271

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I just had my transmission mounts changed at my local Toyota Dealer. Before, my 92 LS had vibration at 70 mph- 75 mph. Today after I got my car back, I went for a test drive on I-10. Boy, what a difference! Not only there are no vibration, all the rattles and squeaks are gone too! I accelerated very slowly from 65 mph all the way up to 85 mph, then slowed back down. The car was absolutely smooth.

In addition, the transmission shift became extremely smooth, especially when shifting from Parking to Reverse. Changing both mounts cost me only $180.00 (labor plus parts). I can say this is the best $180.00 I've ever spend! It solved me an outrageously annoying issue when driving long distances.

If your LS vibrates, have the transmission mounts checked!

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did i tell you that? well anyway try motor mounts next if they are original. but 180 bucks is a bit much i think. i changed mine on both of my cars because of this vibration and they took only 30 min to change. and this is doing it on the floor with hand tools. it must take less than half the time on a lift. and parts is only like 70 bucks. but well good news though

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ebridges,

If you want to do it, change both engine mounts (2) and tranny mount (just 1) the same. It will definitely fix your vibration problem and save labor cost. I bought them ($88.12 each for engine mount, $30.87 for tranny mount) from Carson Toyota 310-522-2381.

My 96 LS with both the new mounts drive like a new car.

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ebridges,

If you want to do it, change both engine mounts (2) and tranny mount (just 1) the same. It will definitely fix your vibration problem and save labor cost. I bought them ($88.12 each for engine mount, $30.87 for tranny mount) from Carson Toyota 310-522-2381.

My 96 LS with both the new mounts drive like a new car.

Two engine mounts @ $88 each = $176.00............

Let me be the first in line to have the dealer change mine out when needed!! :D

That would be $4.00 for labor :lol:

Even if it was $$88 for the pair of MM's...........I'd still take it to the dealer.

Flanker, I agree with you 100% that was the best $180 spent in your life!!!!

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Where exactly is the single transmission mount located?

I've located both the motor mounts and the differential mounts visually. Can't find either a pic from the manual or the ol' eyeball on the tranny however.

Irontoad quoted me tranny mount for $54.33 - and $88.12 each for the motor mounts. Lexus dealer is asking $84.89 just for the single tranny mount.

Gotta try Carson Toyota. Local Atlanta Toyota dealers seem to be charging full Lexus prices for Lexus part numbers.

In any case, sounds like a very good investment :rolleyes:

Thanks great info.

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parts is only like 70 bucks. but well good news though

Yes, the new transmission mount cost $79.40 and labour cost $99.99. It took them the whole day to replace the mount. Mechanics there must be busy with other Toyotas as well :)

They checked the engine mount and it was fine. However, I still have the following vibration problem: when at idling and shift is at Park, I give it some gas, as soon as the engine RPM reaches 4500, there is slight vibration coming from the engine. When it is at 5500 RPM the vibration lessens, and when it is at 6500 RPM the engine smoothes out again. Is this normal? Could be a bad cylinder?

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parts is only like 70 bucks. but well good news though

Yes, the new transmission mount cost $79.40 and labour cost $99.99. It took them the whole day to replace the mount. Mechanics there must be busy with other Toyotas as well :)

They checked the engine mount and it was fine. However, I still have the following vibration problem: when at idling and shift is at Park, I give it some gas, as soon as the engine RPM reaches 4500, there is slight vibration coming from the engine. When it is at 5500 RPM the vibration lessens, and when it is at 6500 RPM the engine smoothes out again. Is this normal? Could be a bad cylinder?

6500 RPM? :blink: I have never taken my car past 4000 RPMs. I normally do not take it past 3000 RPMs, as I have never had the need to take it over that. I am always afraid that I will shorten the engine life if I race it too fast (over 4000), even though I know it is designed to go at least 6000, but it seems like it is too much abuse on a engine to race it that fast. I cannot recall at this time and not to change the subject- but where do these cars redline at? I am thinking it is 6500 rpms? There have been times I have raced the engine in my 92 Buick to 5100 RPMs and it redlines at 5800 if I recall, but this is just my work car. I normally do not take it past 3500 RPMs.

I went out a little while ago and checked and my Buick actually redlines at 5500 RPMs. It "orange lines" at 5300 rpms, so I guess I have had it to about 4500-4600 RPMs. I really abuse the Buick too much. It has been a good car. Buick seems to be one of the better built American cars.

Edited by 90LS400Lexus
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NO I never race my car. I just did this to check for vibration. It is actually not that loud at 6500 rpm and there are no vibration. I think the red line is at 6900 rpm. I only keept it at 6500 rpm for 3 seconds though.

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I am always afraid that I will shorten the engine life if I race it too fast (over 4000), even though I know it is designed to go at least 6000, but it seems like it is too much abuse on a engine to race it that fast.

90LS, I've raced my high mileage LS a few times! I'm more worried about law enforcemnet than breaking the LS! I've been to 6k or 6100rpms a few times. The most recent was when 1UZFE said his car couldn't burn rubber. I was doubtful that the LS could burn rubber at all, so I went out to a back road to try it out. I did 0-60 probably 5-7 times. As my reaction time decreased, I was able to get some burning rubber! Wow, Lexus builds cars that can still burn rubber and get 20/27 fuel econ. even after 231k miles; I'm duly impressed!! :D Man, you need to go past 4k rpms just for the sound! It's sensational!!! B) I only "race" my engine about 2% of the time; the other 98% is spent not going over 2k rpms-put-putting along getting great gas mileage!

My '95 redlines at 6200rpms. I'm sure the first gen is very similar.

I made a post about my LS's tranny quirk a while back, and VMF and several other 95-97 owners reported back with the same problem(I don't know if their jerk is as sever as mine though.). The quirk is a jerk into D or R when the engine is cold, but it smooths out once the car is warm. By jerk, I mean my head snaps back, and if I had a cup of coffee in my hand, it would certainly spill all over me and the dash! This is no exaggeration whatsoever; it's bad. I just don't think this is a "normal characteristic" of the tranny on a flagship Lexus. Could the mounts be a culprit?? BTW, the tranny is silky smooth...this only complicates the trouble shooting process! :wacko:

:cheers:

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I am always afraid that I will shorten the engine life if I race it too fast (over 4000), even though I know it is designed to go at least 6000, but it seems like it is too much abuse on a engine to race it that fast.

90LS, I've raced my high mileage LS a few times! I'm more worried about law enforcemnet than breaking the LS! I've been to 6k or 6100rpms a few times. The most recent was when 1UZFE said his car couldn't burn rubber. I was doubtful that the LS could burn rubber at all, so I went out to a back road to try it out. I did 0-60 probably 5-7 times. As my reaction time decreased, I was able to get some burning rubber! Wow, Lexus builds cars that can still burn rubber and get 20/27 fuel econ. even after 231k miles; I'm duly impressed!! :D Man, you need to go past 4k rpms just for the sound! It's sensational!!! B) I only "race" my engine about 2% of the time; the other 98% is spent not going over 2k rpms-put-putting along getting great gas mileage!

My '95 redlines at 6200rpms. I'm sure the first gen is very similar.

I made a post about my LS's tranny quirk a while back, and VMF and several other 95-97 owners reported back with the same problem(I don't know if their jerk is as sever as mine though.). The quirk is a jerk into D or R when the engine is cold, but it smooths out once the car is warm. By jerk, I mean my head snaps back, and if I had a cup of coffee in my hand, it would certainly spill all over me and the dash! This is no exaggeration whatsoever; it's bad. I just don't think this is a "normal characteristic" of the tranny on a flagship Lexus. Could the mounts be a culprit?? BTW, the tranny is silky smooth...this only complicates the trouble shooting process! :wacko:

:cheers:

So it must not be too bad for them then if nothing has happened yet. :P I am not sure about your transmission. It also sounds to me like it is not normal. If the 1990-1994 LS400s do not do this (mine does not do this), then I would think that the 95-97s should not either. Did they change the transmission in 1995? In other words- will a transmission in a 90 LS400, fit into a 95 LS400? If not- I wonder what they changed? If yours is still shifting through the gears OK, then it should be OK, but I can understand why the jerk would be annoying on a luxury car. Could be your mounts- it may be worth a try. I am going to have mine changed in hopes that it will fix my vibration problem.

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Flanker- I have been meaning to ask you- did your car have a "fluttering" or "rumbling" type vibration, but without the rumble sound? My vibration seems to shake the entire cabin, (including rear view mirror), but can really be felt through the steering wheel, but it does not feel like the tires are causing it. Thanks again.

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before changing the tranny mount I had vibration from my steering wheel, front seat, rear seat, and the shifter knob. There aren't any vibration from the rear view mirror, so I don't think I have a rumble type of vibration. My vibration comes from the bottom chassis of the car, not the cabin.

I also have bad upper control arm and torn bushings. I don't know if that contributes to the vibration of the cabin.

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everyone that is going to change the tranny mounts whould change motor mounts as well.

and if your transmission jerks when you shift from R to D thne it is signs of a wearing transmission.

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Thanks. Luckily, my transmission does not jerk when shifting from "R" to "D", or from "D" to "R". My vibration also seems to be coming from the bottom chassis. I think the mirror vibration may be from the tires. I am going to have them re-balanced and rotated first (on Tuesday) and see what that does. If that does not help, I am going to schedule an appointment with Lexus or Toyota and have the transmission mount changed. Perhaps the engine mounts later if needed. Thanks again.

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and if your transmission jerks when you shift from R to D thne it is signs of a wearing transmission.

Hmmm <_< ...but the tranny still shifts buttery smooth, and the lurch is greatly minimized after it is warmed up....very confusing! :lol:

:cheers:

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and if your transmission jerks when you shift from R to D thne it is signs of a wearing transmission.

Hmmm <_< ...but the tranny still shifts buttery smooth, and the lurch is greatly minimized after it is warmed up....very confusing! :lol:

:cheers:

Same here. Except, even if mine is warmed up it still lurches hard from R to P or R to D.

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Also- wouldn't the transmission always be "wearing" as long as the car is driven? Every mile is a mile closer to the end of its life..... :P

I keep hearing some owners mentioning this "lurching" from the transmission when they are cold, but mine does not do this. It is silky smooth even when I first start out in the morning. Is there a certain year range this happens on? :unsure:

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the reason that the lurch is greater when the engine is cold is b/c the engine is still choked. if the engine is running at a higher RPM and then you connect the engine and transmission together, the transmission will want to spin as fast as the engine. similar to doing a "neutral drop": revving the engine up in neurtal and then jerking the shifter in drive in hopes on spinning tires or whatever (one of the WORST things u can do to a tranny). the only difference between a "neurtal drop" and what all of us experience in the morning: the RPMs are at 1,500 and not 5,000 which doesn't damage the tranny.

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no these are classic symptoms of a trans wearing or more deteriorating over time and driving. in the valve body of the trans there are little rubber balls that controll flow and over the years they wear and or harden this causes the jerk when changeing gears. and it does this when its cold becuase the fluid has not warmed up so that it can not flow that well and when it finally does it is a sudden jerk.

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Couple of questions for those who have had this done before I decide to have the mounts changed on my ‘92 to try to relieve the vibration problem:

1. Before you changed the mounts, were they noticeably worn or defective? I've had a mechanic check them, and he said they were fine. However, I guess if there is some sort or rubber bushing involved, that could be worn or hardened and not noticeable.

2. I've noticed that my vibrations occur only when placing the engine under some strain while cruising. For example, if I'm driving along at 70 and accelerate, I will get the vibration. Similarly, if I have it on cruise control and encounter a hill where the engine accelerates, it will vibrate. In both cases, the vibration ceases once the additional stress of acceleration is off the engine and I am just cruising normally. The occurrences seem to rule out any tire balancing problems.

Thoughts?

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