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  3. Hi, Is anyone else having this issue? My car only has 30k miles and is making this noise again, took it to dealer and they had both the trailing arms replaced under warranty, the noise went away temporarily, now it’s back but not as loud. It only happens vehicle is driven trough potholes or bumps. I have the F sport trim.
  4. Same issue.Tan mats look off and the Ecru shade is hard to match. Let me know if you found a solution.
  5. Recently watched one of his videos where he disrespects an SC430 with 700,000 miles(!!!) Amazing sacrilege.
  6. I recently bought a super clean 2005, and they fully disclosed the antenna was broken, as in the motor runs but the antenna remains in the fully extended position. I've thought about a modern black replacement (shorty) but kind of want to stay original. Most SC430's I've been around exhibit the same problem. Great car.
  7. Thank you for your response! I do understand that it is possible, but not likely that both bulbs could burn out simultaneously. However , my main focus is on the relay. But, I honestly have done a lot of research to identify the low beam relay, but I cannot find any information on how to find it
  8. You should try one or more of these online sites: https://parts.lexus.com/ https://lexus.oempartsonline.com/ Genuine OEM Lexus Parts and Accessories Online - Lexus Parts Now
  9. Perhaps it is related to the seatbelt connection or door that is not fully closed, although I would think that either of these would result in an illuminated symbol. I would check the seat belt and door switch.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Have 250k on it with new battery and alternator. For some reason now when I'm driving there is a bell tone that goes off about every minute. And just one chime at a time. When parked it doesn't. Appreciate any help. Thnx Rod
  12. I have the same problem now with my sc430. All bottoms operate but the mode switch will not change the direction of airflow. It is stuck blowing on the window. Nothing changes when I send it to the floor or in my face.
  13. I have the same thing on my 2015 Lexus Sport has only 88,000 miles--and was previously repaired by dealer 4 yrs ago for the same thing when car was under Certified Warranty. I have recently read it's a flaw that Lexus thought was fixed in 2010--but all are not holding to that. I' not happy as I've totally maintained and cared for the auto!! Let me know if anyone has a good ideas. I don't know whether to trade as is or repair and keep awhile. But what happens when people see 2 timing chain repairs on carfax?? I have 1 estimate at $4000--but it's more of a "mom and pop" shop. Not sure how many Lexus they repair.
  14. I posted the thread Popping sound and still have it after read sway bar links changed and new shocks I have decided to replace the rear sway bar bushings. It appears to be straight forward. My problem is finding the right Rear Sway bar bushings. I find a lot of front bushings but not rear. The bar is 3/4” , 9mm. I have tried the local Autozone, Advanced Auto Parts, Oreily’s and Rock Auto. Maybe I am doing my searching incorrect. 2014 Lexus RX350 rear sway bar bushings. Have also tried Rear Stabilizer Bar Bushings. Any help appreciated.
  15. Last week
  16. Both of the low beam headlights stopped working recently, and I can't seem to find any information that might be helpful to resolve the issue. I've checked the fuses for each side, and they are intact, do I would assume that because they both stopped working simultaneously that it would be a relay or ballast issue, and not light bulb or fuse. But I have exhausted my online search to find where the low beam relay would be located, to test and/or replace. Is there anyone who can identify the specific relay that controls the low beams? Or, am I asking the wrong question?
  17. I’m going to try all suggestions and will reply. I appreciate your efforts. Frustrated in The Ville!
  18. Great. Patience/persistence is the key!
  19. Ok so I figured out what the problem was. The adjuster bolt is actually seized in the pinch block. This is why I couldn’t lower the alternator enough. I ended up completely removing the lock bolt to get the alternator out, so I could get a look at it. Right now I have the car running with the alternator held in place only by the top mounting bolt being tight, hehe. I need to get a new pinch bolt, adjuster bolt, and pinch block, now…
  20. It was Lugoff Toyota in Lugoff South Carolina. Price was a bit high but I knew that going in, $1300 ish if I remember correctly, and they did a nice quick clean job, yes I was very satisfied with them. OOps, I just noticed you were asking people in Michigan the question, Lugoff might be to far! 😁
  21. Yeah I’ve checked out the videos. I wouldn’t post here without first checking that stuff, heh. 😛 There’s one in particular which shows a schematic and this is how I know that I’m doing the right thing (loosening the right bolts, etc.). The thing is, it seems like I can’t loosen the tensioner any more, and it needs to be looser. Tomorrow when I have some light, I’m gonna try and actually disconnect the various cables in the hopes of creating more clearance, then I’m gonna see if I can’t get the tensioner to loosen even more, because the last video I looked at seems as if it *should* get looser. This is the video btw, in case anyone ever wants to see. I think this is the best one available:
  22. Hello, Dan. Have you looked at a video such as this one?
  23. Hey guys. So I was just outside trying to replace my AC/Alternator belt. The old one shredded itself last night, barely made it home on battery power only. New belt came today. After doing some quick research I see what is involved in getting the alternator to pivot down, in order to give me enough slack to be able to slide the new belt on. Problem is, the alternator doesn't pivot down enough and there's really no way to get leverage to pry/force it on. I'm wondering if anyone has had this problem or am I missing something? As it stands, the alternator swings up and down about half an inch, just by using my hands to lift it up and down. I am pretty sure I have loosened the adjusting bolt as much as it will let me. If I keep loosening the adjuster screw will it eventually reach a limit and then break if forced further? Because that's what it feels like..? There is basically no clearance and I'm running out of daylight, but I did remove the skirt in the front to try and get a look at the alternator from the bottom, and I just can't really tell.
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