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Yeah, agreed. For previous cars I've bought old seatbelt buckle keys from junk/scrap yards (the flat metal bit that clips into the seatbelt buckle). However, not a single one in collection fits in the ES350, so I used the OBD scanner to disable the ding.

In my case, nothing that I could do myself was helping for nearly 18 months (2 winters). I changed batteries twice, jump start many times in cold weather as well as during summer. I was very frustrated because even the dealer would not tell me how long it would take to find the source of drain but at bare minimum they would try for at least 2 hours @ 303/hour for a total of $606. My local mechanic refused to start the work because he said it takes long time with unpredictable results to find a drain. I think the dealer probably could find it quicker but they still wanted minimum 2 hour charge. Somehow I got lucky. I went to another Lexus dealer with my wife for an oil change on her car. And I asked the service tech about parasitic drain and indicated that I am willing to bring my car to work on the issue. But, first I want to know what is the most common reason for parasitic drain in Lexus and how much money I am looking at for that most common reason to fix so I am well prepared. He asked what year/model; I told him LS 430-2005. He said oh, many 05 LS 430 had amplifier causing the parasitic drain. And, if that is what he finds, it could cost anywhere upwards of $1300 to replace it in addition to 2 hour charge looking for the drain. So, I came home, watched YouTube to find out where the amplifier is in the trunk, removed the black cover and just unplugged the amplifier wire connector thinking that if this works, I could live without radio in this old car which I don’t listen to anyway. It was in the middle of winter with battery dying almost every 1-2 days. I kept my fingers crossed and started the car 2 days later and by good luck it started at first turn of the key. I waited 2 more days without driving so the car sat in the driveway for 4 days and started again on 5th day. Problem solved. Now I use my cell phone to listen to music and news. Navigation, and car phone audio still work on blue tooth. The only thing that does not work is radio and CD player. I would say just my good luck that I tactfully asked that question to the service tech otherwise everybody said "it could be anything, can't tell without starting the job".

I have a 99 here, I was able too locate the black hose and drain it on the passenger side but I was not able too find one on the drivers side, I know this is 5 years old but there is hope, thank you!

Hi Tom. The invoice has partnumber PT219-GEN08-23. Invoice date is 5 April 2024. Attached is a screenie of the line item on the invoice. I asked for a discount and got a miserly $10.94 off the $210 list. The government of course required its pound of flesh and that pushed to nett price to $215.48. Also attached are snaps of the software nav/map update versions. Hope this helps.

Looking to buy a windshield washer fluid reservoir for a 1992 Lexus ES 300. Anyone have one of these?

Have you searched the fuse panels for the problem? There should be two panels, one on the driver's side (left foot), and passenger's side (right foot) areas.

A few possibilities from a Bing Copilot search:

Hello, Isaac. Does your radiator fan come on when it is supposed to? A blown head gasket could result in overheating. Also:

2008 Lexus IS250 for Sale. Well maintained and in excellent condition. One owner, Oil changed ever 5K. Current Odometer reading - 159,200 miles. Personal Service Record showing all maintenance done and mileage recorded. Major Service performed: Spark Plug - 82,000. Thermostat - 125,00. Flywheel and Clutch replaced at 147k. Engine: 2.5 liter DOCH, 24 valve V6. Transmission - 6 speed manual (Very Rare). Luxury and Convenience Features: - Smart Access w/Push - Button Start/ Stop - Leather Trim w/10 way Power adjust seats - Lexus Premium Audio w/ 6 Disc CD changer. 13 Speakers - Mirror Compass. - Manual Tilt / Telescope Steering Wheel with Audio Features. - Power Windows with One Touch Up/ Down. Options: - HID Headlights with Adaptive Front lighting system - Navigation System. - Premium Package - Heated and Ventilated Front Seats, Wood interior trim, Upgrade leather. - Rear Lip Spoiler. Please see attached window sticker for more details.

Fits 16-22 Lexus RX350 with 20” rims- likely many other vehicles. Bridgestone Ecopia H/L 422 Plus. 12k highway miles since car purchase 9/23, dealer installed these brand new OEM tires (manuf early 23’) at that time. No plugs, irregularities. Changed to summer only tires given high speed of travel on local interstate, flow of traffic on work commute does not coincide with posted speed limit. Car & tires stored in climate controlled garage since 9/23. Local pick up only please in Sarasota, FL. Thank you. Price: $200

I have the exact same problem. Exactly. I have had the rotors replaced at 30 and I need it again at 42k. It is rediculous. I have been told that the rotors they use are cheap and next time to replace them with American made rotors. I'm not sure that is possible.

This thread goes back a while. For me the story also goes all the way back to 2011. At the time I was looking at a 2000-2006 LS 430. But my wife really wanted the newer generation 2007 onward. We were looking at a 2008 LS at the time. I actually sat down with the chief mechanic at Lexus while getting my GS oil change, and he said the newer generation 2007+, LS. suspension cost of ownership is untennable. He also called the 2005 LS 430 "as close to perfection in an automobile you can come." At the time it didn’t really resonate. Later In 2015 we had a horrible experience with an Audi A8 and wound up purchasing a 2011 LS 460 RWD. By all accounts an amazing car incredibly comfortable great riding and quiet up to about 100,000 miles. Never had any other problems. That’s when the suspension noise is started happening. Typical front end rattle most common on very low speed below 25 mph shallow bumps. Like freeze cracks here in the south. A crack in the road that maybe heaves up a quarter inch. It produced a medium pitch clunk or clap. Lexus dealr said $7K to replace everything. Several mechanics said replace control arms. All told we changed out every arm except the stab links and stab bar bushing at 109K. The aftermarket stuff from Moog is fairly good. It reduced noise for a couple years. At 120K put complete strut stacks in along with new stab links. That made things a little bit better. Replaced the stabilizer links a second time. Slight improvement. All the while these mechanics continued to say keep replacing the entire front end. Ball joints have no play so we opted not to change the knuckles. We were lucky enough to be able to bring aftermarket parts to a shop and do this at a reasonable cost, but still not free. After spending a full day, truly troubleshooting which component is moving and causing the noise,these are my conclusions. Most common noise driver and likely wear point is stabilizer bar links. Second most common is the ride height sensor bracket. It has three pivot points with two of them small ball joints. After about 100,000 miles those ball joints weare out. On the 3rd pivot point next to the sensor there is a rubber bushing that shrinks alowing for more play. when the car heats up in the summer, the noise is almost unnoticeable. However, on a very cold day, this linkage rattled with the movement of the lower rear arm and would be quite loud. Once I changed this last piece my problem went away. My advice to folks that have a high mileage LS 460 RWD I would strongly recommend try to do as much troubleshooting as you can up front because none of these mechanics, even the dealers, have any idea how to isolate a component and they are fearful of the hourly cost to do so. They say replace the whole front end. That’s a nonstarter. I would start with the stabilizer bar links and immediately look at the ride height sensor bracket on the front driver side. From there you def want to check struts, ball joints, lower arms Tie rod ends and lastly upper arms for any movement while off the gound. Anything that moves should be changed even if noise is eliminated. If there is 0.020" wear in one of those pieces its going to amplify wear elsewhere in the linkage with this design escpecially on the bottom end. For folks with new vehicles less than 50000 miles with this linkage. Change the stab links and bar bushing at and every 60K. They are cheap. $50 bucks plus install Monitor the ride height bracket for wear and play. Its not cheap if you need to change it. Keep the ball joints lubed every 50K. It will need to be injected into the boot unless you drill a zerk on the bottom. If you can, opt for an AWD as the ball joints are modular and easily dropped out of the steering knuckle. These are fairly inexpensive if you find yourself having to go that route. All told still a fantastic vehicle. Once you get it up to speed above 30 miles an hour. it’s quite possibly the smoothest riding, quiet car in the road.

I have not done this, myself but found this answer by doing a quick search using Bing's CoPilot:

It is normal. It speeds up when you engage ac due to the extra load, almost all cars do that. There is a typo in my first post, it should have said just above 650 with ac on, 500 with it off. Sorry about that.

If you have a multi meter check for power at the bulb sockets. Otherwise, try putting in a new fuse anyhow. Then try new bulbs. Do the easy cheap stuff first

You can order a new antenna mast.

Many thanks, Dean2.

Noting that you can also pull the fuse for the 2 tilt motors. My tilt was dead so I took off the steering column and manually adjusted it then pulled the fuse.

Most punctures are tiny and can be easily fixed on the spot with sealant and an air compressor. Not that flats are happening as often today as 30 years ago; I have had no punctures the last very many years but still have a bottle of Quadboss sealant that can close holes long enough to get car to a place where a new tyre can be installed. The good thing with that sealant that is used on cars racing in deserts is that it is easily washed off with just water and not making a complete mess out of everything when tyre is taken off like sealants with latex. Latex on clothes mean new clothes and latex on tools mean several hours to get rid of the sticky thing. The sealant from Lexus is the stupidly sticking latex type. Why do I know it is good when not having had a flat for so many years? I have used it on mountain bike where I have had holes from thorns and lava several times a week. Never had to walk home, never had to fix a tiny hole in the tyres, never had to change tyre out in the mountains here. So if you are lazy (so am I) sealant is the thing to use for most flats. Important is that after pouring the sealant in the tyre you should drive 50 – 60 km/h for 5 minutes to have the sealant spread around evenly in the tyre and after that control air pressure. https://www.amazon.com/QuadBoss-Tire-Sealant-Gallon-0849/product-reviews/B000WK454K https://www.midwesttraction.com/store/c2294/tire-sealants/p46972/quadboss-tire-sealant-32-oz-atv--utv--530850/

Thankyou Dave for your response. I've had the vehicle nearly a year and don't recall hearing this straining sound. I guess I'll just check with Toyota to see if they may be able diagnose the problem first. I bought it second hand which is why I'm trying to avoid the awesome Lexus fees if at all possible!

My TX 350 is approaching 5K after a little over four months. We're getting 20.3 on about 80% city driving.

I put tan in mine to lighten the floor area. I think they look good.

Did you contact the parts department person at the dealership? Or try one or more Lexus OEM parts sites, such as: https://parts.lexus.com/ https://lexuspartsnow.com https://lexusoeparts.com

I'm not sure if this description is perfectly accurate, but it may be worth a try/look:

Me neither. It's hard to understand his popularity.