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4 posts in this topic
2001 Lexus RX300 trunk door wont open
So my trunk was really full and I tried opening my trunk today. Sometimes when it is full, I've had to use a lot of force. This time, something snapped and I no longer felt resistance when pulling the trunk latch.
I removed the panels from the inside and took a look at the opening mechanism. The cable is still intact and i discovered how to open the trunk from the inside. However, there is no connection from the latch to the rest of the locking mechanism. When I used force, there was a part that broke.
The first picture shows the part that is broken. The black rubber and plastic parts used to be one part. The elongated plastic part used to be inside the car, while the black plastic part used to be behind the latch on the outside of the car. The square hole near my thumb behind the latch is where the rubber used to sit. The last picture shows where the elongated black plastic part used to connect to. The last picture's orientation is looking up. The black plastic part used to lift the silver metal part extending the wire. The wire would then pull the golden part in the third picture to open the trunk. The fourth picture shows an overall picture. If you look carefully at the fourth picture, there is a black cable that runs down the cavity in the center of the trunk door. That is the same cable that pulls the golden part of the mechanism, opening the door.
Essentially, the mechanism is no longer connected due to the broken part. The latch is not connected to the first part of the mechanism and thus, the second part of the mechanism is not working and I cannot open my door from the outside. Anyone know where I can get a replacement part and whether I can install it without opening any screws?
Lexus Rx oil leak
My Rx300 (120K miles) has been leaking oil(?) for a while. I have been reading posts in the forum and I guess it is the rear seal?
Last time I got my oil changed they used synthetic oil and I heard that oil is more likely to leak if there are any problems with the seals (it was not leaking before). Should I go back to regular oil next time to see what happens?
Sorry for the crappy pictures and thank you beforehand
Wrong O2 Sensor?
2003 RX300. Got the trouble code for the Heated O2 Sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2). Lexuspartsnow.com says I need part number
I believe them so I bought the same exact part from Amazon even though their site says it doesn't fit, thinking the Lexus site will know better.
Got it installed fine and cleared the codes but the code keeps coming up every time I clear it. Did I just waste $140? Why would one site list it as fitting and the other doesn't? Could it potentially be another issue?
2001 Lexus Rx300 - Need Advice On Oil Weights
Hi fellow Lexus enthusiasts. You can skip down to the bold text if you do not want to read the background of my post :whistles:
I recently drove my 2001 RX300, which I had acquired last October, on a road trip between Chicago, IL and Toronto, Canada between July 16 and July 25. The only maintenance-related issue that had to be taken care of, an oil change, was completed. I took the car to my local mechanic a couple of weeks before we left and I had him test-drive for a few blocks. He stated, based on his observations, that the car ran well and could be trusted to make it to Toronto and back in one piece.
With about 137,000 miles, this car ran like a top with no loss of power, no transmission jerking, and got roughly 19-20 mpg the entire way with the a/c running at full blast. Driving around Toronto, my mpg went down, but the performance stayed just as well as it had been along the highway. However, a few days after we got to Toronto safely, I was exiting the highway (the famous Highway of Heroes) and, coming to a stop at the end of the downward-sloped ramp, the Oil Pressure light came on for roughly one second and then went out. Initially, I attributed the light to the steepness of the ramp, but I was disconcerted enough to go back out to the car the next day in the morning with a paper towel and pull the dipstick.
I popped the hood, drew the dipstick, held it level to my eye, and my jaw nearly dropped. Yep. The dipstick was as dry as the Grand Canyon, with not even a single drop on it
That same day, I picked up a jug of Mobil 5W-30 synthetic at a local auto store and added right up to the top mark on the dipstick (thank god I had a funnel with me). I dreaded that I would have to repeat the process when I got back to Chicago; when I did so (the dipstick was dry again when we got back), I got the same weight, only as mineral, and only added enough to bring the oil level near halfway between the two marks. Again, there were zero issues related to performance along the way back, and it still amazes me that this is possible. Unfortunately, it never occurred to me to check the oil level at any stopping point along the way in either direction, so I have no clue what the burn rate is .
Here in Chicago, the car often sits for days at a time in the same spot on the street if it's not winter, as I prefer to ride my bike for the fuel economy B). I would have noticed fresh oil spots under my car if there was a leak, and (with the exception of a FEW start ups) there is no smoke coming from the tailpipe either in city or on the highway. To be specific, there is a small amount of bluish smoke upon startup, but ONLY once in a while - it does not happen each and every time the car is started.
Yesterday, I went back to the same mechanic to tell him about this little problem. He replied that, as there is no leakage, the engine is burning up oil in small quantity, which was not obvious until my trip. I was advised by him to switch to a heavier oil at the next change to reduce the likelihood of it getting burnt.
A couple of questions to you, for those of you currently running oils heavier than 5W-30 in the RX300: how heavy have you gone without appreciable decline in performance? How heavy is it possible to run and still be able to operate the vehicle in the winter? (keeping in mind that Chicago winters, although not as cold as the Arctic, are certainly powerful) And lastly, is warm-up time affected badly by a heavier oil (both in summer and winter)?
Any pointers that I can get are highly appreciated. ^_^
Preventive Maintenance & 90k Service
By Lexus Luddite
I obviously have a low mileage RX300 since it's a 2003. I'm the second owner having bought it certified from a Lexus dealership back in 2006.
I recently moved and found an independent shop with fantastic reviews that specializes in Japanese cars. They've quoted $950 for the 90k service including changing the timing belt.
I'm definitely doing the timing belt because mine is 5 or 6 years older than most who were doing their 90k service on this forum. I don't want to risk major engine damage and the car is still in great shape. Aside from regular oil checks (use synthetic oil BTW), my only maintenance costs in nearly 10 years have been exhaust related, ball joints & sway bars, tires, brake pads and a battery. Not sure if it's been a major contributing factor but I'm someone who lets the engine warm up in every season - especially winter - so maybe that's helped reduce engine damage.
My question is if I plan to keep the car for another several years should I replace the water pump and thermostat too as a preventative measure and since my car is 12 years old and I probably wont put more than 5 to 8k miles on the car per year. Are there other items you would consider too?