lemon

For me, it's the windows and radio. 30 seconds and the retained accessory power is shut off (without actually checking, I can't even tell you if the radio HAS retained power). Compare this to any recent GM model which has retained accessory power of 10 mins, I believe. Here's an example, just went through the McDonald's drive through, parked with windows open. Happily clogging my arteries, when it starts to rain. I have to turn the ignition back on (not start the car, just turn on the ignition) to do up the windows, or maybe the ignition is already on because I have to leave it there (or leave the car running or in READY mode in my hybrid) to listen to the radio while I eat. Most other vehicle have a longer time for retained power. So, I think the original poster is asking whether the 30 secs can be extended.

Strange - every Lexus hybrid tech I've spoken with says to replace the PCV at 60K ... which really just makes common sence. They're easy to DIY, and just a few bucks at the local autozone type place. But the PDF says only the following are necessary (all easy to do your self)at 60K: o Replace engine oil and oil filter; reset reminder light o Rotate tires o Visually inspect brake pads and rotors o Road-test vehicle Let us know what they do, and let us know what they charge, if you don't mind. The PCV valve is easier to replace on the 330. On the hybrid it's tucked in at the back of the engine. It's not super hard, but involved taking off a few parts, which is not required on the 330. I've a DIY posted somewhere on this site..

Yes. Been there, done that when my auxiliary (12 volt) battery gave it up this past fall. As to leaving the car for an extended period - went away to Cuba in April - car sat for 8 days, no problems.

Any do it yourselfers notice that the oil drain catch under the filter is totally useless, or is it my car in particular? When I unscrew the filter, the oil runs down behind the guide (between the block and the guide) rather than into the guide itself. I'm wondering whether it does this for everyone, or am I missing a gasket or something between the guide and the block.

Any do it yourselfers notice that the oil drain catch under the filter is totally useless, or is it my car in particular? When I unscrew the filter, the oil runs down behind the guide (between the block and the guide) rather than into the guide itself. I'm wondering whether it does this for everyone, or am I missing a gasket or something between the guide and the block.

Same washer tank for the headlights, but different pump. There is one pump for the front windshield washer, one for the rear and one for the headlights. The headlight washer pump is much more expensive than the other two pumps (more powerful I guess - it has to pump the fluid with enough pressure to pop up the sprayers). The pump also has it's own relay, which is even more expensive than the pump. Honestly, I don't know how Lexus comes up with these prices...

I know each driver will get different results based on driving habits, but I find the mileage to be much better than the regular RX330. Also, I believe 'all' the hybrid RXs came with the tranny cooler, which is located behind the vent in the bottom driver's side of the bumper. Your mechanic might be a trans guru for 'certain' transmissions, but he can't be an expert in all of them. True, many CVTs use belts and pulleys, but the CVT in the RX does not.

there is a button in the glove box to disable the active stability control, but that does not seem to have any effect on wheel spin according to posters here. If you find different, please let us know. I've never played with it. you are rioght, doesn't make any difference :cries: Doesn't that button turn of the rear power hatch? Seriously, the 2006 didn't have a traction off button. I think later models might have though.

Since getting my RX400h, I've been kind of disappointed that it didn't (or so I thought) have a low washer fluid warning light. I remember thinking that my 1991 Honda Accord had one (and almost every vehicle I've owned since, which is somewhere around 15 to 20 off the top of my head). In all those vehicles, there was a warning light on the dash. Not seeing this warning light in the dash when first starting the Lexus (when all the warning lights light up) led me to believe that there was no low washer fluid warning light. I also don't remember seeing any mention of this in the owner's manual, but it's there (page 103). Well, lo and behold, while taking a highway on ramp at a fairly high rate of speed, the red triangle warning light with the exclamation mark lit up and a message appeared in the dash display screen "Warning - low washer fluid" or something similar. It went out after the vehicle was level again. But still, a nice surprise.

My problem is, what I estimate to be a 1 hour job, usually ends up taking 3 or 4 (the first time anyway, I get faster the more I do it). Nice thing about a shop, is they've done it many times, so it's usually a piece of cake for them.

Dunno why, but in my experience (with all my vehicles), the rears are always in worse shape than the fronts. Must be the spray off the wheels. I always take apart my rears after winter and lube the pins, and contact points of the pads. This is the first time I've had a vehicle with the drum in disc parking brake, so it was a new and messy experience with lots of hybrid (two profanities combined) cuss words. I would have taken some pics, but my hands were absolutely caked in grime.

Just a reminder that you should service your parking brake when you have your rear brakes serviced. Pulled my rear rotors off today because the parking brake was not holding. Wow. I guess the winters (salt, slush, water etc.) really take a toll on these things. The regular brakes - I had two seized caliper sliding pins on the driver's side. Freed and lubed these up. The parking brakes - Driver's side was seized, and the passenger side, while working was really really rusty. The passenger side also made a really loud squeeking sound when applied. Checked the shop manual - turns out there are several spots where the shoes rub against the backing plate and those spots are supposed to be lubed with high temp grease. Vehicle is a 2006 and I'm guessing the parking brake had never been serviced. Anyhow, freed up the driver's side, lubed both sides, loud squeeking gone and both wheels lock now when the parking brake is applied. There was a hell of a groove in the driver's rotor on the inside of the hat where some dummy (I bought my 400h used, so I know it wasn't me) drove with the parking brake applied. Don't know how, since there is a loud and visible warning in the dash if you drive with the brake applied. Either that or it was seized prior in the 'parked' position, and had at some point released and then seized again in the off position. Guessing new rear rotors, pads and parking brake shoes are in my near future. Just as an aside, I really hate these parking brakes that use the drum in the hat of the disc. Much prefer the other style where the parking brake is actually a mechanism that applies force to the caliper and hence the pads, thus preventing the rotor from turning. I know there are drawbacks to this system as well, but I think it's easier to work on with less parts involved.

As far as I know, on the 2006 there is no way to shut off the traction control.

Look under the rear, between the back wheels. The 400h has an MGR (motor generator rear) or electric motor that powers the rear differential and it's quite easy to see it. You'll notice the cooling fins for the entire unit hanging down.

Torque, my friend. The torque from the electric motors is what pushes you back in your seat when you mash the go pedal. Look at how much torque the front electric motor is putting out - more than the gas engine, and it's available at zero rpm (i.e. immediately). I'm not making that number up - 268HP is from Lexus directly.

Lexus states the total HP for the 400h as 268. Not quite sure how they come up with this figure. Maybe this explains it.. The engine makes a maximum of 208 horsepower at 5600 rpm, with 212 lb-ft of torque at 4400 rpm. The front motor makes 167 horsepower at 5600 rpm and 247 lb-ft of torque from zero to 1500 rpm - just the ticket for fast acceleration when needed. They are coupled through a planetary gear continuously-variable transmission, which is controlled by computers and motor-generator 1, which is also the starter motor. A second motor, with 68 hp from 4610 through 5120 rpm and 96 lb-ft of torque from zero to 610 rpm, runs the rear wheels when the control computer decides extra rear traction is needed. Around town, the RX operates electrically as much as possible, with the gas engine stopping when the car is stopped and assisting the electric motor(s) when moving. On the highway, the motors assist the engine. Note that the engine and motors never develop maximum power at the same time, but still, maximum system horsepower is listed at 268, not bad at all.

I'll be needing new tires soon as well, so this is a worthwhile post to keep an eye on. Since I have dedicated winter tires/rims, I 'think' I can probably wait till next summer to replace the all season. However, by then, I'm sure there will be some 'new' tire that catches my eye..hahaha. It's like when you buy a new TV/computer/cell phone/ipod etc. and six months later, version 2, with bigger, better, cheaper and 3 dimensional comes out...

The Yokohama is a V rated tire as well. If I'm not mistaken the OE Michelin Energy MXV4 S8 are also V rated. The General you're considering is not. Not that you're ever going to be at a sustained speed to need the V rating, but I just like staying with OE ratings. The wear rating is less on the Yokohama (but as stated somewhere else, wear ratings are open to interpretation). However, the A A rating for traction and temperature is also equivalent to the OE Michelin. The General is A B. The Yokohama is about $150 at Tire Rack, which is more expensive than the General. http://www.yokohamatire.com/tires/avid_envigor.pdf

These tires just came out in March, and were recommended to me by a Tire Store. Cheaper than the Latitude Tour...don't know how it compares to your favoured tire, and it's too new for many reviews, but the few that are posted at tirerack.com are positive. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=AVID+ENVigor+%28H%26V%29&partnum=355VR8ENV&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes I know an Accord is not an RX, but here are some positive reviews, with many remarking on the quietness of the tire http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=44339

Look under the back, between the back wheels. You'll see the MGR (Motor Generator Rear), which is Lexus's fancy name for the rear electric powered differential. You'll notice the cooling fins on the diff, and if you look closely enough, you'll see the drive shafts running to each wheel.

Wonder if a Mr. Clean magic eraser might take those scratches out? Just be careful if you try, because it might remove the paint itself..

I will say this about how bullet proof the HSD is. Out of over TWO MILLION hybrids running around the landscape with HSD, I've only heard of a couple persons having problems ... & I've looked for them on the web, different forums etc. In addition, although the Stealership will want you to come in sooner, the CVT does NOT need to have its fluid changed for NINTY thousand miles. This nuget was given to by by TWO hybrid tech specialists ... but if you want to wast perfectly good fluid, knock yerself out! ATF-WS is cheap(ish) and changing the fluid is quite easy. I changed the fluid in the MGR (rear diff) and the tranny at 115000 kilometres. While colour is not a great indicator of fluid condition, the fluid I put in looked much nicer than the fluid that came out.

Just checked Yoko's site and it shows 235/55R18 100V 32160 SL 560/A/A 30.62 7.5 6.5-8.5 9.6 28.2 7.5 10 13.0 736 1764@51 BW Translation: V rated 560 A A, Wear and A A rated BlackWall... I was at a local shop and they concur that the 560 A A and V rating is quite interesting and superior that the S8 Michelin with 300 A A Thoughts ? Tire Rack doesn't show that size, but if Yoko shows it, then I guess it's available.

You realize you're right on the border of the recommended 3% difference in tire size from the OE spec? A 255/50/18 would almost be bang on when it comes to diameter (if there is such a size). Are you looking for a long wearing tire - is that why you're not considering the General Grabber UHP (summer tire only, which would be OK for you) or the recommended General Tire for the RX, the General Exclaim UHP.

The cabin filter is before the evaporator, so I wouldn't think it would be a problem. Might just be old particles that were in the vents?