lemon

My guess is it's something to do with the clock (your latest mod)? That clock looks like something from a 1980's era vehicle...

Agree. I had an aftermarket Gentex installed in one of my previous vehicles - the wiring harness had a temp sensor at the end that I had to run through the firewall to the front bumper area. As mentioned, it's probably a univeral LCD that can display all sorts of stuff depending on what data it receives. Just as an aside, I'm glad cduluk doesn't work at a nuclear weapons facility...constantly tinkering..lol (this is not a dig by the way - I think it's great that you can tinker and come up with all your mods)

Ouch..yeah the electric motors (MG1 and MG2) are integrated into the transaxle and IIRC (I can check my shop manual when I get home) they are cooled by the same coolant that flows through the inverter. That really sucks - did you aks if they would warranty it? I have 145000 KM on my 2006 and hope there isn't going to be a bunch of failing systems as these hybrids get older (and higher in mileage). Part of my automotive bucket list is to own a diesel...wondering if I should be thinking about trading the 400h for something that will get decent mileage but not have such complicated engineering.

From what I understand, TSBs are free of charge within the warranty period. After that, it's a crap shoot. I guess if you're on good terms with your dealer they 'might' do it free of charge, but they are under no obligation to perform a TSB once out of warranty. A RECALL is an entirely different story.

Definitely a coolant leak, but hard to tell where it's comign from. However, if the level in the inverter reservoir was dropping, then yes, it's the inverter leaking from somewhere. I would take it to the Lexus dealer sooner rather than later, especially since you're just over the 100000 mile warranty. With the amount of bad press Lexus/Toyota has been getting lately with recalls and such, they may ignore the fact that you're 1000 miles over the warranty. Plus, if the coolant is dried and built up like that, it's been leaking for sometime now, not jut recently, or else it would appear wet. It might even be something simple, like a loose hose clamp or small leak in a hose. If you could see the underside of that hose that's just above the leak you could tell for sure if it's coming from that hose (there are a few other hoses connected to the inverter as well.

Is this the front or the rear? $2690 to replace all four??!! I think I've seen rear bearings for sale online for less than $100 each. Don't know if fronts are more expensive. Do you have a good independent mechanic you could use?

Just for kicks and giggles, why don't you try 34 or 35 and see if the noise lessens. I run 34, and I don't get squealing on acceleration, only on hard cornering (like taking a highway offramp at a decent clip). Oh, I should mention that I have the same tires on mine (but Blizzak WS60 on 17" Lexus rims for the winter).

Crazy question, but since you just installed them, did you check the tire pressure. Tires will lose air slowly over time, even if they are just sitting in the garage. That being said, I can make mine squeal with any sort of spirited driving - it's just the nature of that particular tire I guess. As someone already mentioned, that tire is by no means a winter tire, and it is only a mediocre all season. From the pics, whatever ones are in the first three have lots of tread, the next two are more worn, and the last pic also shows lots of tread.

Mine has it, though more in one spot than all over like yours. Are you in an area that salts the roads in winter?

Try here http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html to see what different tire sizes will be a match for the original tire size. The main point is to keep the diameter roughly the same as the original tire. It looks like 235/55/18 would be a good match (actually both sizes would work). The offset of 39 is very close to the factory offset of 35. The only other consideration is the size of the centre bore (the hole that you need the caps for) that fit over the hub.

Totally off topic, but how do you find those Avid ENvigors?

That's all interesting reading (where did you find that?) I love reading about the RX - here's another good link http://www.lexus.com/pdf/models/rxh_driving_performance_guide.pdf It has nothing to do with boosting..it's just interesting. To answer the original question in layman's terms, though, yes, you boost the RX400h the same way you would boost any other non hybrid vehicle.

My guess without hearing it, is it the emissions control pump doing it's thing. It runs a pressure test on the emissions system to check for leaks.

Electric heater to use before the coolant heats up...that would have been a good idea - maybe you're right about it sucking too much battery power though. I know in the RX450h, they are also now utilizing the exhaust gas somehow to gain excess heat from it.

I remember when I did mine, I had a heck of a time getting it to work. The key was the five seconds involved somewhere in one of the instructions. The five seconds had to be very precise. Following someone else's post, I used the flashing : on the clock to measure the five seconds (each flash of : was one second). Using this procedure, the programming worked flawlessly. See post #14 in this thread http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=58822

Just a quick correction - the 400h heater is not electric - the system still depends on hot coolant to produce heat. Where the electric comes into play, however, is the 400h has an electric water pump in the cooling system (separate from the engine coolant pump which is traditional, driven by the timing belt) that keeps circulating the hot coolant into the heater core to keep producing heat even when the engine is off (when the engine is off, the engine coolant pump is not turning and coolant is not being circulated so the electric pump is needed - in a traditional vehicle the coolant being circulated by the engine coolant pump is also circulated through the heater core for cabin heat. When in park with the ignition on (and in colder weather) the system will not let the coolant temp fall below a certain point so that cabin heat can be maintained. Also, the catalytic converters need to be kept hot for emissions control, so you will notice the engine run more frequently in colder weather and start with less of a push on the gas pedal. Due to this, you'll see a corresponding drop in your mileage as well - in my case summer is around 8 litres/100km and winter is closer to 10 litres/100km.

There is an adapter you can buy - apparently that tab is called the "pinch weld rail". Not sure if that adapter will work with any jack, though - you might need the specific jack mentioned. This will help if you are jacking from the sides. http://www.eastwood.com/floor-jack-adapter-for-late-model-cars.html http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-second-generation/251503-i-give-up-on-trying-to-use-a-hydraulic-jack-with-pix-5.html If you are jacking from the front center (this will get both wheels at that end off the ground), use the point indicated for the front (there is a label there just at the edge of the front splash guard. The rear center jacking point is actually the bottom of the rear differential for the regular RX. For the hybrid, it's the crossmember just in front (toward the engine) of the MGR (rear electric motor (or Motor Generator Rear in Toyota speak)). You DEFINITELY, don't want to jack the rear of the hybrid from the electric motor. *edit* found these, which look even better.. http://pacedweb.com/protechproducts/ http://www.purems.com/products/product.php?II=833

To save me typing out a whole bunch of instructions, you can download the manual for many Lexus vehicles/year here https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/info/my-lexus/resources/owners-manual-search.do

I noticed the same thing last winter (first winter with my 2006 400h. When the weather got colder, it took much longer for the vehicle to heat up, than even a traditional vehicle. I was going to replace the thermostat myself to see if it made any difference (and get a coolant change done at the same time) till I realized how much stuff has to be moved out of the way to get at the thermostat housing. In you case, whenever you are in electric mode, the engine is not heating up since it's not running. In my case, however, when leaving work, I am on a highway within 2 minutes and the engine runs constantly, and still I was finding it very slow to warm up. Now, I'm not sure if it's a thermostat problem or just a hybrid thing (our engines supposedly run more efficiently thus producing less heat, plus we have larger grill openings in the front bumper than the regular RX for additional airflow over the inverter radiator (which is a separate radiator from the engine radiator and the A/C condenser.

2010 Equinox was a completely new model (clean sheet design..nothing from the old vehicle used on the new one). So far most of the reviews by car mags, sites, TV shows have been very positive. The DI (direct injection) six cylinder seems to be a decent engine, except for fuel dilution of the oil (which is apparently common in a lot of DI engines). We'll see how it goes (company car for the wife...she keeps it 3 years of 120 000 KM, whichever comes first. I'll let you know how it goes... Consumer reports is obviously basing that information on the previous model, as the new model has only been out for about one year. So far, in nine months of ownership and 30000 KILOMETRES, the only thing replaced was a faulty VVT sensor. I've never been a GM fan (truly..only imports except for one huge mistake of a 1998 Jeep (well..also a 1999 Grand Caravan) but I honestly think their design and quality is very much improved from even a few years ago. The Regal, LaCrosse and the Cadillac CTS (V, coupe, wagon etc.) immediately spring to mind.

LOL...my wife actually has a 2010 Equinox (company car) with the DI 6 cylinder (no power hatch on hers though) and I'll have to admit that I'm impressed with the vehicle (especially compared to some of the offerings from GM in the past). I think GM and Ford are in a bit of a revival right now (not so much Chrysler) and many of their recent offerings are the first domestic vehicles I'd actually consider buying.

The signal horn? Like when you lock the car, or when you use the horn on the steering wheel? Regardless, there are several noises the RX400h makes. Shortly after turning it off there is a buzzing noise from the engine compartment (buzzing, clicking noise), which is the brake system doing something or other. From the rear of the vehicle, there is a noise that occurs (usually hours after parking though) that is the emissions control pump doing something (pressure test on the emissions control hoses?) Can you record the sound and post it?

Have you tried looking in the owner's manual? My 2006 RX400h has the instructions in black and white in the owner's manual.

I hate to say this, but I'm in a cheeky mood this morning....buy a Chevy Equinox. You can adjust how high the power rear hatch opens. Seriously, though, it's a great idea from GM. I'd like to see it implemented into the RX.

If you're springing for two sets of tires, I'd suggest dedicated winter tires (not an AT tire) and a summer or all season tire. Are you sure your stock tire is not 235/55/18 (you put 17 in your post). Check here http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html or here http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp to see what different tires sized will work for you. If you in fact have 235/55/18, I know RXREY runs 255/55/18 with no trouble.