sk1951

I love this forum but it does get confusing. This is what "I" am going to do with my 96 es300 w/125k mi. 1. The manual says to "inspect" at 125k but says nothing else about oil transfusion or what to use. 2. The dip stick says to use Dex II and to check the rear end oil at the filler hole. However my understanding is that Dex III can be used in place of all before it. I am not sure when Dex II was superseded/discontinued but I thought it was before 96 as stated below. I am sure the stick is OEM and has all the jap lingo on it. I concluded that maybe the stick is older than 96 but then what did the factory really use? I assume it had to be Dex III. (Democratic disclaimer: No disrespect meant on the Jap statement.) 3. The forum seems avid against using Dexron. So I called the Dealer...Bell Road Lexus in Phoenix @ (602) 866-1474 (602) 866-1474 and they told me...: "Pre 1999- Dexron III ATF. 1999 to 2004- Toyota ATF. 2004+ World Standard ATF what ever that is...you new guys can fight it out. I asked about the synthetic and he said with older cars it would not really matter but suggested "no". I asked about using the Valvoline vv337 Dex/Merc Extended Life and he said it was a good product and a good replacement for the Dexron". 4. So...I want all the oil changed out... so I am doing the flush method irregardless of the damage threat (I'm such a rebel) and pulling/cleaning the pan/changing the internal screen filter. And I am using the Extended Life Valvoline. Because the Valvoline can be used and will mix with everything I feel safer useing it. It takes 9 qts plus one or 2 for the flush. If interested in the Valvoline I have posted more info on it...read on: http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer...ission-fluid/37 Overview from the site above: MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF contains a blend of superior base oils and a unique additive package to help extend the life of transmissions with over 75,000 miles. It is formulated to maximize transmission performance, reduce transmission wear, and improve and maintain smooth shifting longer than conventional fluids. MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF is compatible with new and rebuilt transmissions and will not void new car warranties. Recommended for use where DEXRON, DEXRON II, III and VI, Toyota T-IV and WS, MERCON®, MERCON® SP and LV, Allison TES 295 and 389, Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J and Matic-K, Honda Z-1 (except CVT), Mercedes NAG-1, Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II and SP-III and many others are required. WIKIPEDIA: All previous DEXRON specifications were replaced once DEXRON-VI was introduced. There are no valid approved products that carry the DEXRON approval unless they have a DEXRON-VI approval and associated license. DEXRON-IIE has been surpassed by DEXRON-III as of January 1, 1994. It is no longer available and its use is no longer recommended. DEXRON-IIE is not compatible in systems requiring DEXRON-III or DEXRON-VI. DEXRON-III is not compatible with the most recently designed transmissions, and the use of these earlier type fluids could result in transmission damage. All DEXRON-III licenses expired at the end of 2006, and will not be renewed. Beyond that date, General Motors will only support the use of DEXRON-VI fluids for use in Hydra-Matic transmissions. Fluids claiming DEXRON-III type performance continue to be sold under abbreviated names such as Dex/Merc, and D/M however since the DEXRON-III licensing system no longer exists, these fluids are not regulated in any way. DEXRON-VI DEXRON-VI was introduced in 2005. It was designed to replace all prior specifications, and is therefore backwards-compatible with applications calling for DEXRON of any type. The specification (GMN 10060) defines both a performance level and specific additives that provide improved shift feel, friction durability and oxidative stability compared to earlier specified fluids. Hope this helps and not hinder...

I love this forum but it does get confusing. This is what "I" am going to do with my 96 es300 w/125k mi. 1. The manual says to "inspect" at 125k but says nothing else about oil transfusion or what to use. 2. The dip stick says to use Dex II and to check the rear end oil at the filler hole. However my understanding is that Dex III can be used in place of all before it. I am not sure when Dex II was superseded/discontinued but I thought it was before 96 as stated below. I am sure the stick is OEM and has all the jap lingo on it. I concluded that maybe the stick is older than 96 but then what did the factory really use? I assume it had to be Dex III. (Democratic disclaimer: No disrespect meant on the Jap statement.) 3. The forum seems avid against using Dexron. So I called the Dealer...Bell Road Lexus in Phoenix @ (602) 866-1474 and they told me...: "Pre 1999- Dexron III ATF. 1999 to 2004- Toyota ATF. 2004+ World Standard ATF what ever that is...you new guys can fight it out. I asked about the synthetic and he said with older cars it would not really matter but suggested "no". I asked about using the Valvoline vv337 Dex/Merc Extended Life and he said it was a good product and a good replacement for the Dexron". 4. So...I want all the oil changed out... so I am doing the flush method irregardless of the damage threat (I'm such a rebel) and pulling/cleaning the pan/changing the internal screen filter. And I am using the Extended Life Valvoline. Because the Valvoline can be used and will mix with everything I feel safer useing it. It takes 9 qts plus one or 2 for the flush. If interested in the Valvoline I have posted more info on it...read on: http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer...ission-fluid/37 Overview from the site above: MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF contains a blend of superior base oils and a unique additive package to help extend the life of transmissions with over 75,000 miles. It is formulated to maximize transmission performance, reduce transmission wear, and improve and maintain smooth shifting longer than conventional fluids. MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF is compatible with new and rebuilt transmissions and will not void new car warranties. Recommended for use where DEXRON, DEXRON II, III and VI, Toyota T-IV and WS, MERCON®, MERCON® SP and LV, Allison TES 295 and 389, Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J and Matic-K, Honda Z-1 (except CVT), Mercedes NAG-1, Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II and SP-III and many others are required. WIKIPEDIA: All previous DEXRON specifications were replaced once DEXRON-VI was introduced. There are no valid approved products that carry the DEXRON approval unless they have a DEXRON-VI approval and associated license. DEXRON-IIE has been surpassed by DEXRON-III as of January 1, 1994. It is no longer available and its use is no longer recommended. DEXRON-IIE is not compatible in systems requiring DEXRON-III or DEXRON-VI. DEXRON-III is not compatible with the most recently designed transmissions, and the use of these earlier type fluids could result in transmission damage. All DEXRON-III licenses expired at the end of 2006, and will not be renewed. Beyond that date, General Motors will only support the use of DEXRON-VI fluids for use in Hydra-Matic transmissions. Fluids claiming DEXRON-III type performance continue to be sold under abbreviated names such as Dex/Merc, and D/M however since the DEXRON-III licensing system no longer exists, these fluids are not regulated in any way. DEXRON-VI DEXRON-VI was introduced in 2005. It was designed to replace all prior specifications, and is therefore backwards-compatible with applications calling for DEXRON of any type. The specification (GMN 10060) defines both a performance level and specific additives that provide improved shift feel, friction durability and oxidative stability compared to earlier specified fluids. Hope this helps and not hinder...

The '98 model should use Dextron III. I was just told to NOT USE Dextron. Use Toyota or there is a Valvoline older modle replacement oil. The diff? Beats me but I go with what the pros say. To expensive a trany for an oil screw up. Cheack around first.

how much transmission fluid does a 1996 ES300 hold? 9 quarts total flush.

Best info in the room for a 94 found here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=15005 And don't feel stupid. I had to find help here too!!!

Just did my tail lights for my dad's 96 es300. Thanks to this rooms help! Who would think it would be this involved. But I did find a few things that were not that well explained, so here is my experience on HOW TOO... 1. Open trunk duh...as one guy said...then clean it out. Another said you don't have to clean it out...well it depends on how much stuff is in there! As you work...I put everything on top of the CD changer for safe keeping. 2. PLASTIC TRUNK CAP COVER: Controversy here on the plastic that runs over the top of the trunk deck to remove or not. I discovered that it does not need to be completely pulled off. But you do have to pop the ends up on each side to get to a plastic Phillips head screw looking plug holding the top of the carpet. A bit scary but it will pop up with a steady pull. 3. PLASTIC "SCREWS": The plastic plugs in the carpet on the trunk deck (that you have to take down to get to the bulbs) are a trip. They look like a Phillips screw with a compression ring. THEY ARE NOT! You can take a Phillips screw driver and give them a 1/4 turn that seems to loosen them but turning any more is a waist of time. Once it comes loose a bit take a regular driver and carefully pry the "screw" out... you will find it is a plug with a flared end with the Phillips head on the other. The "compression ring" part has a four prong pieces that swells when the "screw" piece is pushed into it. It is really hard to remove or install with it all together. When replacing push the "compression" ring part in first then push in the "screw" part. You will find 3 of these on the top of the carpet. On the bottom is two plastic caps at either end. They just pull off and snap back on. 4. TRUNK LIGHT: The trunk light on mine had two prongs to snap it into the body. Someone must have been there before because one was busted off so I can't really tell you how it comes out because once the carpet was lose it came down with the carpet. The clips are on right/left/center so you might be able to push one with a small screw driver if it is stuck and won't move. Other wise you will probably brake it like mine was. I'm still working to put the lens cover back on! I see above that removing the light may not be necessary, just the cover so you may just try that. 5. BOLTS: 2 on each side are under the side flap of carpeting...just pull it out and look behind it...you will see them. I found 5 nuts on each side. Four 8mm and one 10mm each. The thread part is screwed securely into the light assembly. I had no problem using an open end wrench(s) to get at them. 1/4 turn and the nuts spun off by hand. Gently push on the thread parts to make the tail light move and ease it out. There is a plastic clip holding the wires and it is easy to pull it free allowing you to lift the assembly up to the top of the trunk deck to work on it. Nice if you have 4 hands but not necessary. 6. BULB SOCKETS: All the sockets take a 1/4 turn and pull out. They only go in and out one way so that is easy. Push twist the light bulbs out and in. You will need 4-168's 4-1156 4-1157 to do both sides. Obviously replace them as they come out so as not to mess up like one guy did forcing an 1156 in a 1157 hole. Not a good thing to do. Anyway...thanks to the forum and mods here it was not as bad as I thought it would be. Special thanks to DKRC-2003. The only thing I see different from your 94 to my 96 was: 2 1157 bulbs, it looks like the top light is missing on mine. Wonder why they omitted it. Save Lexus a few bucks I suppose. Also there was a 10mm nut added. The others looked to be the same on mine. I got to the deep one with my wrench Thru the trunk light hole and did not need a socket wrench. I noticed that you did not take the carpet loose at the top to get at the one farthest to the outside. I found it better to take the carpet loose at the top as I explained above. Oh...and I can see where someone may think they have to take the bolts out of the trunk lock...NO. And there are two bolts to the inside that look like they may hold the light assembly...they hold body trim on...you don't have to remove them. Other than these things that's about all I have to report on this little project. The pics were totally awesome...thanks. Off to work on my moms Fiero...there is a great owners forum for them also.

What is it? Yr. and so forth. Service record?

Best report would be at Lexus. Call and ask to run a check for you. Have the vin # ready....

I put a 94 head light assembly in my 96 es300...then noticed the lines. No one noticed it. Oh welll....

Just did my tail lights for my dad's 96 es300. Thanks to this rooms help! Who would think it would be this involved. But I did find a few things that were not that well explained, so here is my experience on HOW TOO... 1. Open trunk duh...as one guy said...then clean it out. Another said you don't have to clean it out...well it depends on how much stuff is in there! As you work...I put everything on top of the CD changer for safe keeping. 2. PLASTIC TRUNK CAP COVER: Controversy here on the plastic that runs over the top of the trunk deck to remove or not. I discovered that it does not need to be completely pulled off. But you do have to pop the ends up on each side to get to a plastic Phillips head screw looking plug holding the top of the carpet. A bit scary but it will pop up with a steady pull. 3. PLASTIC "SCREWS": The plastic plugs in the carpet on the trunk deck (that you have to take down to get to the bulbs) are a trip. They look like a Phillips screw with a compression ring. THEY ARE NOT! You can take a Phillips screw driver and give them a 1/4 turn that seems to loosen them but turning any more is a waist of time. Once it comes loose a bit take a regular driver and carefully pry the "screw" out... you will find it is a plug with a flared end with the Phillips head on the other. The "compression ring" part has a four prong pieces that swells when the "screw" piece is pushed into it. It is really hard to remove or install with it all together. When replacing push the "compression" ring part in first then push in the "screw" part. You will find 3 of these on the top of the carpet. On the bottom is two plastic caps at either end. They just pull off and snap back on. 4. TRUNK LIGHT: The trunk light on mine had two prongs to snap it into the body. Someone must have been there before because one was busted off so I can't really tell you how it comes out because once the carpet was lose it came down with the carpet. The clips are on right/left/center so you might be able to push one with a small screw driver if it is stuck and won't move. Other wise you will probably brake it like mine was. I'm still working to put the lens cover back on! 5. BOLTS: 2 on each side are under the side flap of carpeting...just pull it out and look behind it...you will see them. I found 5 nuts on each side. Four 8mm and one 10mm each. The thread part is screwed securely into the light assembly. I had no problem using an open end wrench(s) to get at them. 1/4 turn and the nuts spun off by hand. Gently push on the thread parts to make the tail light move and ease it out. There is a plastic clip holding the wires and it is easy to pull it free allowing you to lift the assembly up to the top of the trunk deck to work on it. Nice if you have 4 hands but not necessary. 6. BULB SOCKETS: All the sockets take a 1/4 turn and pull out. They only go in and out one way so that is easy. Push twist the light bulbs out and in. You will need 4-168's 4-1156 4-1157 to do both sides. Obviously replace them as they come out so as not to mess up like one guy did forcing an 1156 in a 1157 hole. Not a good thing to do. Anyway...thanks to the room here it was not as bad as I thought it would

Just did my tail lights for my dad's 96 es300. Thanks to this rooms help! Who would think it would be this involved. But I did find a few things that were not that well explained, so here is my experience on HOW TOO... 1. Open trunk duh...as one guy said...then clean it out. Another said you don't have to clean it out...well it depends on how much stuff is in there! As you work...I put everything on top of the CD changer for safe keeping. 2. PLASTIC TRUNK CAP COVER: Controversy here on the plastic that runs over the top of the trunk deck to remove or not. I discovered that it does not need to be completely pulled off. But you do have to pop the ends up on each side to get to a plastic Phillips head screw looking plug holding the top of the carpet. A bit scary but it will pop up with a steady pull. 3. PLASTIC "SCREWS": The plastic plugs in the carpet on the trunk deck (that you have to take down to get to the bulbs) are a trip. They look like a Phillips screw with a compression ring. THEY ARE NOT! You can take a Phillips screw driver and give them a 1/4 turn that seems to loosen them but turning any more is a waist of time. Once it comes loose a bit take a regular driver and carefully pry the "screw" out... you will find it is a plug with a flared end with the Phillips head on the other. The "compression ring" part has a four prong pieces that swells when the "screw" piece is pushed into it. It is really hard to remove or install with it all together. When replacing push the "compression" ring part in first then push in the "screw" part. You will find 3 of these on the top of the carpet. On the bottom is two plastic caps at either end. They just pull off and snap back on. 4. TRUNK LIGHT: The trunk light on mine had two prongs to snap it into the body. Someone must have been there before because one was busted off so I can't really tell you how it comes out because once the carpet was lose it came down with the carpet. The clips are on right/left/center so you might be able to push one with a small screw driver if it is stuck and won't move. Other wise you will probably brake it like mine was. I'm still working to put the lens cover back on! 5. BOLTS: 2 on each side are under the side flap of carpeting...just pull it out and look behind it...you will see them. I found 5 nuts on each side. Four 8mm and one 10mm each. The thread part is screwed securely into the light assembly. I had no problem using an open end wrench(s) to get at them. 1/4 turn and the nuts spun off by hand. Gently push on the thread parts to make the tail light move and ease it out. There is a plastic clip holding the wires and it is easy to pull it free allowing you to lift the assembly up to the top of the trunk deck to work on it. Nice if you have 4 hands but not necessary. 6. BULB SOCKETS: All the sockets take a 1/4 turn and pull out. They only go in and out one way so that is easy. Push twist the light bulbs out and in. You will need 4-168's 4-1156 4-1157 to do both sides. Obviously replace them as they come out so as not to mess up like one guy did forcing an 1156 in a 1157 hole. Not a good thing to do. Anyway...thanks to the room here it was not as bad as I thought it would be!

"43512" is the correct Toyota part number prefix for the brake rotor but I can't find "43512-0631" -- maybe it is for a kit that includes both the rotor and brake pads. Why were the rotors replaced? I often "eyeball" the outer pad thickness without removing the wheels -- I've been living in "Metric World" most of my life so I know what a millimeter looks like. The inner and outer pads usually wear at the same rate. For exact measurement, I use small brass calipers that I bought probably 30 years ago and almost always carry in my pocket. (Always good for laughs from people when I whip out my calipers and start measuring stuff.) I rotate our tires myself so I do a more exact check of pad thickness when the wheels are off. Maybe your mechanic is using my "eyeball technique" of checking pad thickness but his eyeball is not so accurate. It's also possible that your pads really are wearing down quickly if you do an extreme amount of stop and go driving, ride the brake pedal or are a member of the Richard Petty driving club. If you want, you could probably buy calipers at a hardware or tool store. As I said, I bought mine decades ago and had since never seen any like mine for sale -- until last week when we were buying a gift for the grand nephew in this science store and I saw calipers just like mine: http://www.hms-beagle.com/ Are they outside or inside calipers? :P Man that store is a geek magnet! Well...back to triangulating the center of the Universe!

I am in the process of fixing up my dads 96 es300 after a minor fender bender. Got that fixed and I am waiting for hood struts to come in the mail from eBay ($22 for the pair). Will post how that works out in the hood support string for those that have been in that debacle. Had the few seams in the seats fixed and the bottoms replaced...looks new again. Anyway... Dad got the car in 99 with 70k on it (salesmen driven) for 19k. Has 125k on it now. The front was done by my brother in law at Lexus when they got the car but dad doesn't think the back has ever been touched. I figure he just doesn't remember...(85yr old for those dealing with that...and it was my brother in law that remembered the front being done.) But I posted a question a few days ago about a strange ooooOOOOOoooooo sound I hear when we take off from a dead stop. It is not very loud and can barley be heard inside the car. Was talking with my brother (a parts man) and he said that Lexus will "sing" when the pads get low...and sing is what it sounds like. I have heard other cars when the pads get low. There is a metal clip that starts to rub to warn you before the rivets or metal hits the rotors. But they make a scraping noise not a singing noise. The car went in today for the 4 wheel works...rotors calipers pads and brake fluid flush...doing a flush change on the transmission tomorrow. But I am amazed to here that some of you are getting over 100k on you brakes!!! Astounding...will have to go and apologies to my Daddy! 125k on rear breaks? Amazing! Well...off to the "how to replace the tail lights" string to post my experiences from yesterday on that! This room is great! Happy Holidays and thanks to all for your help pictures and info. Has been way way helpful and better than the books! You just can't beat personal experiences!

96 es300 whistles...like a reed or flute on take off from dead stop only. No sound when driving. You can barley hear it inside but is louder out side. It is in the back of the car. I know...get off the drugs dude! No really...it is a sad moaning sound. It does not sound metallic or like a stress sound. Just a oooooOOOOoooooooooo for about 2 or 3 seconds. No...I don't have Casper in the trunk...!Removed! I can hear all the comments already! It fades in and fades out. Really strange. Does not sound like exhaust or exhaust leak. Other wise the car is perfect. What can I say...anyone heard of this before?

So way cool! Thank you Lexucan and a really special thanks to DKRC-2003 (I sent a PM message to him). Feel sorry for the 1156 screw up. Never force a bulb or a square peg...so to speak. Wonder how that turned out?

Darn...was hoping for a post on this. 96 es300. I need to get to the tail lights too.

I have the weird one...96 es300. It has a bracket tack weld onto the driver side hood strut. They are over $100 each. After reading all the posts here I decided to go with the cheapest I could find. I noticed the pictures at many of the sites and the ones at ebay looked the same. So what the...you know... If they work great if they don't...well...I'll get them to work. They are $22. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...%3D10%26ps%3D63 But these are the other sites I found (did not post the $100 struts): http://www.amazon.com/Lexus-ES300-Support-...k/dp/B000PTOMLO http://www.autopartsbylou.com/lift-support...mp;x=14&y=3 http://www.1aauto.com/search?words=hood+struts+lexus+es300 http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?...7071+4294967194 http://www.am-autoparts.com/AM/Hood-Hatch-...YahooShoppingSF http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1996/lexu...hood_strut.html

I have the weird one...96 es300. It has a bracket tack weld onto the driver side hood strut for an elec connection. They are over $100 each. After reading all the posts here I decided to go with the cheapest I could find. I noticed the pictures at many of the sites and the ones at ebay looked the same. So what the...you know... If they work great if they don't...well...I'll get them to work. They are $22. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS-ES300...sQ5fAccessories But these are the other sites I found (did not post the $100 struts): http://www.amazon.com/Lexus-ES300-Support-...k/dp/B000PTOMLO http://www.autopartsbylou.com/lift-support...mp;x=14&y=3 http://www.1aauto.com/search?words=hood+struts+lexus+es300 http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?...7071+4294967194 http://www.am-autoparts.com/AM/Hood-Hatch-...YahooShoppingSF http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1996/lexu...hood_strut.html Some good info here also: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/169018-hood-strut.html

I have the weird one...96 es300. It has a bracket tack weld onto the driver side hood strut. They are over $100 each. After reading all the posts here I decided to go with the cheapest I could find. I noticed the pictures at many of the sites and the ones at ebay looked the same. So what the...you know... If they work great if they don't...well...I'll get them to work. They are $22. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...%3D10%26ps%3D63 But these are the other sites I found (did not post the $100 stuts): http://www.amazon.com/Lexus-ES300-Support-...k/dp/B000PTOMLO http://www.autopartsbylou.com/lift-support...mp;x=14&y=3 http://www.1aauto.com/search?words=hood+struts+lexus+es300 http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?...7071+4294967194 http://www.am-autoparts.com/AM/Hood-Hatch-...YahooShoppingSF http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1996/lexu...hood_strut.html

We have a 96 es300. Was 2 years with 70k when bought, high milage for 2 years old but got a really good deal. Now has 125k. Dad has banged it up a few times. Last time took a fender and head light out. Insurance totaled the car and paid him 5100 for it. I bought it back for 300 and spent 600 to fix it. Had it detailed and the interior seats fixed for 400. Car looks and drives like new now. REALLY nice car for 1300! Mom n' Dad are happy and using the extra money to fix up their little "hot rod" an 85 2m6 SE Fiero. They are 82 and 87. The only thing I still need to fix is the power antenna...won't stop trying to go up. And the hood struts (shock supports). I was shocked at the OEM replacement cost...100 each! This is the only year that has a little bracket welded to the drivers side strut to mount some kind of electrical harness connection. OK fine...but what is up with the passenger side being the same 100 bucks! I have found some replacements that are cheaper around 40 or 50 a pair but I am having a hard time deciding whether to chance it over the Internet. Anyone with a comment on that? Anyway...ya...if you found a car that Lexus has information on that is really cool. Call them and check...they will need the VIN#. You may have a car fax done also. Check that the title is not a salvage or rehabed salvage because that cuts resale in half. That is what we have on our Lexus now...but you will never find a nicer cleaner better maintained car than this one! Fluids and filters are the big issue. Check them all for level and clarity. If they are low or dirty than the car was probably mistreated. Other wise I would say the price will make the deal depending on condition. Check Kelly and NADA for book values of trade in and resale. If you can get a nice car for trade in that is normally a pretty good deal. Go over the car really good and find anything that needs fixed or replaced and make sure you have room to do it. You want the car perfect when done or don't buy it! Hey...it's a Lexus and has to show it! I had a 91 LS400 Gold edition with 225k on it. The car thought it was brand new. But it was a doctor owned Lexus dealer maintained car. I did do a "flush" change on the trany when I bought it and suggest you do that to yours too if you buy it. Is a bit pricey around 100 but well worth it because of the cost to replace a trany in a Lexus. Good Luck...

did your bf sugar your tank?

Any suggestions where to find them?

Any suggestions where I can find hood struts for es300 1996?