Sexus ES300

why would you want it to tilt out? on mine i pushed the strut in, while holding it i bolted one bolt down then tightened them all. I then had to push the strut in towards the car, hardest part was getting the two big !Removed! bolts to line up and get the bolts in but after a little trial and error it was pretty easy. Kinda elaborate more and take a pic if you can so that way i can tell you what to do

I dont really know what the big deal about this is. Put the car in neutral or turn it off and get it towed to the nearest dealer or something. Yeah its obviously Toyotas fault but the driver should at-least know what the hell to do instead of going 100mph and killing themselves.

On my dads toyota when i cleaned out the maf he drove for about 30 miles and ithe check engine light turned off so id think it would be similar to that

I considered that but my springs were fine and the cost was slightly more with the quick struts. It only took about an hour to put the springs on the new struts so it wasnt bad, but yes that would be alot easier with the quick struts. Do you mind posting a link to the quick struts for this model so people can locate them easier.

http://camry.turboninjas.com/CamryRepairManual.rar thats the correct one, the original is for my model.. my bad

On page 21 it says "Sedan/ Wagon" --- would it be the same diagram for an ES_300 ? yes, the manual is for the Camry sedan and wagon along with the es 300

http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/bo.pdf page 21 All the service manuals are located on the front page

Just replaced the struts on my 98 es 300 and WOW it rides very smooth and i dont have that annoying !Removed! clunking noise anymore. its a fairly easy diy, i bought all the parts from advance auto parts (besides the top half upper mount and the bearings from autozone, btw bearings are included with the top half) all Monroe (had to order some through advance but they arrived in two days). Instructions: http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/sa.pdf Page 50 (it leaves out the tie rod looking thing btw) jack up the car remove the wheels remove the clip that holds the abs sensor remove the bolt that holds the brake line and the abs sensor remove the bolt on the strut that looks like a tie rod(need a screw driver with a hex head and an open end wrench) remove the two big !Removed! bolts from the strut (takes a good bit of force) remove the three bolts under the hood that connect to the top of the strut pull the strut out. compress the spring (advance was kind enough to let me use their little shop that had the tool and an impact wrench) remove the top bolt that holds the spring and take off the spring. put the new rubber coil spring insulator on the new strut put bumper and boot on the new strut put the compressed spring on the new strut put a new upper mount/bearing holder with a rubber mount put a new upper mount w/ bearing on top on the other part of the upper mount screw the bolt to the strut make sure the lines line up on both parts of the upper mount facing outwards (away from the car) decompress the spring remount and rebolt all the stuff and your finished. didnt take me long after i figured out how to do it. Tips mark the old struts left and right so you know which mounts and springs to do Do one at a time you dont want to confuse the two make sure the arrows/lines line up together and face outwards make sure the bearing between the upper mounts stays in place when decompressing Heres the parts links: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wc...MS_977409282___ http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wc...MS_977402575___ http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wc...S_1110300339___ http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wc...S_1160310127___ http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wc...S_1014687040___ http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wc...MS_406954666___ http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/p...p;parentId=46-0 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/p...p;parentId=46-0 advance forgot to order the other half of the upper mount so i want to auto zone( price was higher) btw the other half what im talking about isnt on the advance website so if you go in to get it specifically ask for it Actual parts list: Strut front left $57.59 Strut front right $57.59 Boot kit with bumper x2: $28 Upper mount plate/bearing holder and rubber spring insulator x 2: $28 Lower Spring Insulator (right) $15 Lower Spring Insulator (left) $15 Upper mount plate with bearing (top half of upper mount) left $78 Upper mount plate with bearing (top half of upper mount) right $78 With a grand total w/out tax: $357.18 If you can find bearings you can discard the expensive upper mounts (top half) which would reduce the cost significantly The names for some of the stuff is probably not accurate but the links should help Sorry for the long write up and not including pictures (i forgot). Id be happy to help anyone with the replacement just post here for any questions

i lost the damn key for mine just in time for a flat tire so i had to buy a can of fix a flat then drive to a mechanic, he used some tool and removed the lock and i went ahead and replaced them with regular lugs. I got the from autozone for like $8 they are a little shorter than the stock ones but it beats those stupid locking ones. I figure if anyone really wants to steal my ugly @$$ rims then go ahead

Both cars start fine when cold. Typically in the afternoon i don't recall in the morning. no check engine light

98 es 300 wont start when its fully warmed up, i have to give it gas for a few seconds before it turns over. It only happens when i cut it off then start it up like 5 10 min later. Its not that big of a deal for me since i can get it started by pressing the gas but my sisters integra does the same thing and she doesn't understand to give it gas (showed her like 5 times and continually have to drive to her car and start it). Obviously this isnt an acura forum but i figured w.e the problem with my es 300 is something similar to the integras. Any advice? should I clean intake manifold, check radiator psi...etc thanks

this is all i could find at O'Reilly http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/E...&vi=1316093

well i do all the maintenance on my car so im not worried about the price variable and im going to change the timing belt/water pump when i get a long weekend off sometime soon, so i figured if im tearing apart the car then it would be easier to replace them at the same time. Would it be any easier when i do the timing or should i go ahead the replace the gasket? Also i good diy would be great if u can post one on here. Thanks again!

alright i may just wait to change when i change the timing belt/water pump

ok changed the pcv valve and it still smokes when getting up to normal temp. I did notice it idles better now with the new pcv. this is around the area its smoking: its below the spark plugs but i cant see where exactly its coming from

Can some on just take a quick pic of what to remove and wear to spray please

also does it matter what brand? I was planning going up to auto zone and just buying w.e they have

Alright thanks George_Jetson il change that out today and post my results

i have the same problem (98 es 180xxx) its only when the car sits for a long period of time. in the morning there is white smoke out the exh and from the front right of the car(if your siting in the car) i figured it was condensation since its cold but after i leave school its in the 60s and smokes for about 5 min then goes away. not loosing and coolant/oil and its not blue so not tranny fluid. any ideas? Also: if the air/heat is on intake it smells pretty bad in the car

can anyone post some pics on what to spray

I re-used the shims on my front brakes and they squeaked like hell so i had to soak everything in some anti squeak material. I bought thermal quiet pads and the shims didnt fit since the pades have two raised areas where the caliper sits, so when it came around to change the back i didnt re-use the shims i just went shimless and no squeaks what so ever. Im probably gonna go ahead and remove the shims off the front since the backs are working fine.

about 185XXX on the odometer so yeah i figured they would need replaced soon. il let you know what the problem is once i get around to changing the timing belt. Thanks for the replys

When going over a bump in the road i hear a slightly loud/deep sound from the front right of my car. It started out fairly quiet and not very noticeable but now even when my music is up you can hear it. Any ideas? struts, shocks, motor mounts? any of those would cause this? Im about to change the timing belt so i figured id get on this during the change.

also, Lexlogic which of those kits would you recommend?

ok thanks for all the replys, i hope this goes well. One of the sites posted said something about using a "Steering wheel puller" to remove the pulley. any other random tools i should pick up?