Sexus ES300

2001 IS 300 195,000 Miles Asking price $5500 Black exterior / tan interior New Tires New brakes & Rotors Upgraded suspension system Aluminum radiator Short Ram/Cold air intake New timing belt and water pump Front strut bar & front eibach sway bar One minor scratch 1. Anything in particular I should inspect? 2. If no major issues, what would you offer? 3. Does anyone know what these headlights are? would like to install these once I get the car.

I did the same thing with my 99 es300 and regret it. KYB are to harsh for this car. I used monroe and the ride is exactly the same. http://shop.advancea...5495-_-10720525 Heres the link to my thread where i replaced them myself:

145 is a little too much to spend on a 98, but thanks thats exactly what I was looking for just wish it was a little cheaper.

Thanks man, I figured id have to end up doing that anyways unless i could find one online. Thanks again for the tips!

BUMP

Any idea where i could find the front passenger side trim bezel for a 98 3s 300? I broke the retaining clip when cleaning the window switch and recently broke the plastic tabs where the switch and lock are at so the whole thing falls off the bezel into the door. Heres a pic of what part i need: Ive already googled and looked on ebay but obviously havent had any luck, just need a little help getting pointed in the right direction. Thanks!

Not balancing just realignment. I let off the steering wheel and slammed on the breaks to see if it pulled left/right, it didnt, and after a month i havent had any unusual tire wear so i never had to get it realigned. If you end up having to its pretty cheap but id go ahead and rotate the tires too. Unfortunately i didnt take any pics but heres the link for my write up: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63153&st=0&p=404228entry404228

yeah that link was for my car my bad There's definitely a difference from left and right but its only really for the brake line clamps and yes its the full assembly so no need to compress the old springs...etc the top 3 bolts are very easy to take off but the 2 big bolts on the bottom are a !Removed!, I had to use a breaker bar to get them off. I ran into issues when putting the new assembly in, the bottom 2 bolts weren't aligning up correctly but after i figured out the first one it took me less than 10 min to change out the other side. If u need any help just let me know. This is a pretty easy DIY

Btw Monroe should be good enough for that car. KYB is a nicer brand and they are stiffer imo but i liked the really smooth ride before so I went with the Monroes.

If your replacing the springs too just get Monroe quick struts http://www.summitrac...ts/MON-171678ST If not search for my thread on strut replacement, its for a 98 so the part #s will be different but at least you know what parts to get.

After giving up on trying to find replacement lights and blue light "condoms" i went ahead and ordered some L.E.D.s. I ordered them from here: http://www.superbrig...instrument.html Of course with my luck i ordered the wrong size even though the back looks identical to the original bulbs so i removed the leds from their sockets and put them in the new sockets the picture is a little misleading but the climate control screen looks exactly like every blue light around it. this is how it turned out:

you might want to start a new thread for that problem. but is it only 45mph and above? Try using injector cleaner or cleaning out the MAF

I had the post where some had the part numbers for the climate control lights but i cant find it now. Any one have any idea on what the number is or the size? Im going to make all the lights blue eventually cause im not a big fan of the green so the size info would be great. Heres what im considering putting in: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Finstrument.html

btw do u have pics for the pc in your car, ive been considering building one and hooking it up to my head unit(double din 6.5in)

ah i see. I would think since the air is colder it is denser, kinda like a cold air intake improving mpg or a turbo with an inter-cooler. never thought about the gas additives. thanks for the input, ever tried a K&N filter?

Around 6 months ago i was getting a steady 19 mpg but now im stuck at 17. I already changed the pcv valve about a month ago. Any thing else i should change? Im about to change the air filter(considering a K&N)

Since no one replied I went ahead and ordered this one and put it in today. http://www.warehouse...rsReviewsWidget SO much better than the stock one for only $50 It took about 2 min to wire it up and put it in. I still have to bolt it down so its just sitting in there. Unfortunately I ordered a dual 2ohm sub which is only abled to be wired to 1ohm or 4ohms so its running 4ohms instead of 2ohms but still sounds great... If i did it again id buy the dual 4ohm version for a little more so that you could run it at 2ohms. Look up ohms law or sub ohms on google. Heres some pics:

similar problem with my passenger seat, the actual seat part not the back is tilted backwards and wont come back up. So your kinda wedged in the seat all the other functions work fine though. If you find a fix let me know

Easy on the caps lol. btw since you dont have any records id definitely look into the timing belt/water pump even though if the belt breaks or the pump dies you wont damage anything

that doesnt seem like its related to the timing belt or water pump, more like rotors/brakes, wheel bearings, bad alignment...etc but yeah id still take it back and have whoever changed the belt and pump

regarding the windows: pick up a can of electrical contact cleaner and remove the switches (takes like 2min) dissemble the switch as much as possible, spray the hell out of it(Try to spray inside the switch to get to the contacts) wait like 5 min then repeat at least 3 more times. same prob with my switches but fixed them with a 5$ can of cleaner. If you do get the can of cleaner go ahead and spray out the MAF sensor (you dont need a new one) for the o2 sensor the front one is easy but the one close to the firewall is kinda hard to get to but its still a very easy diy as stated above try getting a can of injector cleaner everything else intake gs said is recommended btw DO NOT flush the transmission a simple drain and fill should suffice maybe the filter if it hasnt been changed

I just pulled the old speaker out of the car and the only info is that it is 2ohms. Anyone know the specs for the stock sub? Its a pioneer btw

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8311_Kicker+C84+-07C84-.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21933_Kicker+C84+-10C84-.html the top one is out of stock but I can back order but which one is better?

Heres my head units output: # Power Output: * Peak: 60 watts x 4 channels * RMS: 17 watts x 4 channels

The sub in my es 300 was shorting out but i ripped the cone when trying to resolder the wires back. The stock sub sounds like crap anyways so I figured id get a cheap aftermarket free air/IB sub and put it in. Any Ideas? btw im thinking of powering it off my head units amp since everything else is using the pre-amp outs(rca) and they plug into the factory amp.