cduluk

It's already been established what the white stuff is, it's similar to that of an antacid or something... Probably not harmful, but it's still not nice to have to breathe in. With some good persuasion they should have to replace it. It's not normal for the AC unit of a car to emit white particles... I just hope they don't replace it with another factory one, because that too in time will have the same issue. I read somewhere that there is a replacement that doesn't have the issue, maybe one of another model?

It's a common problem with chrome wheels, especially with the snow, sand and salt. Even if the car was still under warranty, Lexus wouldn't budge if they've been in the snow. The chrome wheels from Lexus aren't really made from Lexus, they just outsource a company to do them. Even the highest quality chromed alloy wheels won't survive a winter with the elements and all. You really need a separate chrome set for the summer and a factory silver set for the winter. That's what i do and the chrome stays perfect. You can buy a set of factory wheels that've been chromed (probably from the same people who Lexus uses) for around $800- for all 4. I bought a new chrome set for my 400h WITH new tires for $1300 shipped. If you look around even you'll find some good deals.

Sorry man... i know how it feels! :( Just as long as no one was hurt and that they're gonna get it fixed, it's all good! <_<

Yeah!!! i could install the needles on my own cluster, good point. <_< I'll do that today, this way i can take my time working on the spares.

Oh yeah, i do notice it fogs up the inside when running inside air, but for the most part i've been OK. So what do you guys think my next step should be to test if there's indeed an issue with my unit?

And with the flash to show the needles better <_< I know this may seem like a minor detail to most (which it is…) but I figured it could be an easy and fun challenge. Out of all the Rx400h’s out there, mine’s got the longest gauge cluster needles! It’s just a little subtlety that can separate mine from the rest… :) I’d love to have the engineers from Lexus examine my cluster and try to figure out what I did. Congrats to the engineers over at Ford though, who figured out the cheapest and easiest way to get the needles to start from the true center. There’s nothing like watching the gauges start-up and having the needles swing to their positions from the actual center, it just looks a lot better. Eventually i'll do the modification to my actual cluster (because it has my actual mileage) and i'll be able to sell this one on eBay to someone else... It's a lot of work, but well worth it. <_< So enjoy and please comment! :D

And here are the results after the modifications :D

Here’s the stock Rx400h cluster (...well, Rx330/350, but they use the same needles) See how the needles don’t light up from the center? Here’s the factory Rx400h cluster w/o the tinting film.

When I first opened up the cluster and saw how these needles were designed, my first thought was that it would be impossible to get that extra 5mm of light. :( I also knew it would be impossible to just switch these needles with the types from the LS and IS, since they would require independent voltage, which would mean I’d have to add a clockspring unit- which is impossible to add to the Rx400h needle motors. So I started to look for another way. I looked at pictures of gauge clusters from other makes and models to see if anyone else had figured out this dilemma. I studied various clusters that use the optitron technology (using high powered backlighting with a tinted plastic cover) just like Lexus does, and noticed something funny. In clusters that use the old-fashioned needle technology like the Rx400h (using light from beneath the cluster) you will always notice a ring of light surrounding the needle head. This is light that escapes between the cluster face and the needle head. In clusters that use the new technology like the LS and IS (making its own light in the needle head) this pattern of light around the head is not seen. Since the cluster and needle make their own light, there is no light going from the cluster and needle, so no light can escape. <_< So I looked at all of the various makes and models with gauge cluster needles that were illuminated from the very center. All of them lacked the ‘ring’ around the needle head except one of them- The ‘04 Lincoln Navigator. :o The needles of the Lincoln Navigator are illuminated from the very center, but still have that ring of light around the needle head. The overall shape of the needle resembled the ones used in the Rx400h as well, which also lead me to believe it might be of the same type. Either Ford was messy in sealing up the needle, or the needle must be illuminated from below. I had to find out. So I bought a used one for $20 on ebay and took it apart. :D What I found was an exact replica of the technology used in the Rx400h needle, except the part of the needle that connected to the pin of the motor was separated from the clear plastic piece. You know how the first 5mm of the plastic piece in the Rx400h needle could not be painted white because of the needle pin connector? Well, the Navigator needle plastic piece is painted the entire length, with the pin connector attached to a separate black plastic film below the clear piece. This way, light enters, and can be reflected in the area over the pin, allowing the entire length from the center to the tip to be illuminated. GENIOUS!!!!! :D So I purchased a used Rx400h gauge cluster on ebay ($150), took it apart, removed the needles, and modified them to mimic the Navigator needles. I cut off the plastic pin connectors from each needles’ internals. I then sanded the entire bottom of the plastic pieces, polished them, and then re-painted them, adding the 5mm that was covered by the pin connector. Then out of thin plastic, I made a piece to mimic the new lower film used in the Navigator needles and glued the pin connector to it. I know you probably have no idea what I’m talking about… I just can’t explain it. <_< I did a quick 5min demo using the clear internals from my old rx300 needle (same type as in Rx400h) and took pics. You’ll get the idea… So after I finished modifying all of the needles’ clear plastic internals, I started modifying the needles’ black covers. I just cut out the 5mm using a razor blade, sanded it smooth, and painted them with Krylon’s flat black spraypaint, using a “mist” powder coat (to match the Rx400h gauge face texture). :D I put the needles back together and installed them back on the cluster pins. I made a note of where the needles’ min and max points were before removing them so I would be able to put them back correctly without having to do calibration. <_< So that’s about it! :D

Hey guys!! :) As some of you may already know, I’ve worked on a few “personalized” projects in my Rx400h, most of which cosmetic. Most of my projects deal with the modification of interior parts, such as steering wheel, accent light, and wood additions. I figure, you spend most of the time behind the wheel, so everything in front of you should look as nice as it could be. <_< I’ve already converted the steering wheel in my rx400h to the one used in the 06-07 GS models, and already finished a complete wood interior overhaul, converting the factory wood color to that of a dark maroon shade, as seen in the 02-04 ES models. But there was still one more thing bothering me about the dash of the Rx400h, the fact that the illuminated portions of the gauge cluster needles (for the power meter, speedometer, fuel and engine temp meters) did not extend the full length, from fulcrum to the tip. You’ll notice that the factory needles' illuminated portion begins about 5mm away from the center of the gauge, rather than starting from the ACTUAL center to the tip. Let’s start with some background. If you look at the gauge clusters in some of the other Lexus models, you’ll notice that their needles begin illuminating at the very center (fulcrum) of the needle, and extend to the tip. This style of needles was first introduced in the 1990 LS400, which is often referred to as the “light-saber” needle design. These needles were the first in any car to be illuminated “separately” from the rest of the gauge lights, by using a miniature CCFL in the needle itself (and LED’s in later generations). This is what made it possible for the needles light to begin at the very center of the needle. In every other design of needles (ones requiring light from beneath the cluster), no light can be formed at the very tip, since AT that very tip, there is a metal pin (which connects the needle motor to the needle) and light cannot pass through it. <_< But even though these newly designed LS needles were appealing to the eyes, they were very expensive - not just to build, but to make them work. Since these needles use their own light source, it meant that electricity would need to be sent into the head of the needle. This required an even MORE expensive miniature “clockspring” device around the needle pin. Lexus did try to cut costs by using SMD/LED’s in the needles (as opposed to a CCFL) for the 92-96 ES and SC models, but it proved to be even MORE expensive when they began to burn out due to overheating. I believe this is why the technology is only today used in the higher-end Lexus models (such as in the LS and LX)…and of course in the 06+ IS (because its added appeal is admired by the younger IS market). B) At present, the ES, GS, RX and GX models still use the older technology of needles (requiring light from beneath the cluster) which limits the length of the needle. Inside these needles is a piece of clear plastic, which takes ambient light from beneath the cluster and throws it down the length of the needle. It’s the pin at the center of the needle that blocks light from going straight upwards, so Lexus just hid the first 5mm beginning at the tip with the needle cover. Here’s one of the fuel or temp needles from the Rx400h cluster.

The halogen bulbs used in the GX headlight projectors are conventional bulbs. used in most cars. It's xenon bulbs that are special.

It's fairly simple to remove the cluster, only requires a philips screwdriver and flat-head screwdriver. I did it about a hundred times on my old Rx300 working on various cluster projects, so here's the how-to from memory :) You first need to move the steering wheel to the lowest position. Then you will need to pry out the two plastic dash panels adjacent to the steering wheel column (the right one surrounding the ignition spot, and the left one that contains the security and seat memory buttons) with a flat-head screwdriver. They're just held in place with clips, so just pry out until they come. You can unplug the plugs that feed the memory seat, mirror controls and security light if you want, it may give you more elbow room (but is not needed). Next you will need to remove the two philips head screws holding the black bezel to the dash upper dash. You'll need a short screwdriver as a long one will get in the way. A screwdriver less than 4" in total length will fit. At this point, the black bezel still won't move, as it's also held in by two clips on the lower left and right. You will need to pry out the black bezel with a flathead screwdriver (or you could try pulling by hand). Then pull the bezel towards you a little, and unplug the plug leading to the dimmer switch. Just press the little tab at the top while pulling, and it will come out. Now, you can remove the black bezel, just pull the top down and towards the front, and slide it out of the area- i remember it was a tight fit, so just take your time. It'll seem impossible, but it is :) Now you will be facing the cluster, and be able to see the three screws holding it to the dash frame. There should be one screw at the bottom left and bottom right, and one at the top. Remove the philips screw at the top first. The other are tricky since they're so deep. Take your time removing these two, because as soon as they're out, they'll want to fall into the annex of the dash. You might need a pair of thin fingers to reach in there and take the screws out once they're un-screwed :) Now the cluster will be free. You'll need to flip the bottom of the cluster upwards, and then pull the cluster out a few inches. The wires that lead to the back of the cluster are too short, so you'll need to remove the three plugs in the back while the cluster is still in it's cubby area. You'll need to stick your hands behind the cluster blindly and remove the plugs. Just press the little clip at the top of each plug while pulling, and they'll come out. When the three plugs are removed from the back of the cluster, you can freely remove the cluster from the cubby. To remove the cluster from it's cubby, rotate the bottom of the cluster to the top, and slide out. I remember it wouldn't come out facing you... you need to flip it. And no need to remember which plug goes where, as they're all shaped differently so it'll be easy upon re-installation. When you have the cluster free, you'll need to look at the back of the cluster. At the bottom, you'll notice a row of weird "circular things"- these are the bulb holders (which are attached to the bases of the bulbs). Find which bulb lines up with the "door open" icon, and remove it. Just look at the front side of the cluster and look for the red "door open" icon, make a note to where it is, and find which bulb in that bottom row at the rear lines up with it. Remove the bulb by rotating that base to the left a few degrees until it stops. Then pry it out a little. Then to make sure it is indeed the right bulb, peak into the hole and pull the cluster up to some light, and make sure you see the red "door open" icon. You'll need to buy a new bulb (attached to the holder) from the dealer, as i don't 'think' the bulb itself can be purchased separately. It shouldn't be more than a few dollars... Then re-install the bulb by placing the holder in the hole, and rotating this time to the right a few degrees until it stops. And that's it! :) *** you may also want to switch the "L" bulb with the "D" bulb while you have the cluster out of the car. If it hasn't happened already, sooner or later the "D" for "drive" indicator light will burn out (it's a common problem with these clusters). For this, you'll need to remove the white backing on the rear of the cluster (with the several philips screws) to gain access to these bulbs. If i remember correctly, the bulb holders for the P-R-N-D-2-L icons are 'flat' meaning you can't pull them out with your hands. You'll need to use a flat-head screwdriver to rotate the bub to the left a little, then pry out. I would just "switch" the D and L bulbs rather than buying a new one. Since you hardly ever use L, it won't blow out... The bulbs for the P-R-N-D-2-L icons is a different size from the 'door open' bulbs, so keep that in mind. Before you put the cluster back into the car, you need to make sure the needles for the tach, speedo and temp and gas gauges are at their lowest position. When playing with the cluster, the needles "freely" move around the dials. If one or some of the needles aren't in their lowest position, just move the cluster around until they move back to their lowest positions. You don't need to remove the cluster lens at all. As soon as you're done, you can re-install the cluster the same way as you took it apart, in reverse order. If you want, you can fire up the car once you've got the cluster plugged back in, just to make sure everything is indeed working. Once you've confirmed it's working, you can put in the three screws that hold the cluster to the frame. For putting in the screws to the right and left of the cluster, try masking-taping the screws to the tip of the screwdriver, and guiding them into their holes until they're secured for tightening. It's hard to get the screws in their place without them falling down into the annex... Once the screws are tightly secured, just pull on the screwdriver and leave the masking tape on the screws... Then install the black bezel (making sure to re-attach the plug to the dimmer switch) and clip it to the dash securely, then install the two surround panels, and you're complete! :) I hope this helps! It's all from memory, but it should help :) If you need any more help, just ask :D

I would definitely go for the 04+ Rx330 rather than the previous generation 01-03 Rx300. I had a 2003 Rx300 before my Rx400h. It was a WONDERFUL car. I loved it in every way. But now that i am in the newer generation RX, i like it better. Not because of the hybrid aspect, but because of the newer technologies. The Rx400h has the same technologies as the 04 Rx330 (minus being hybrid of course). The introduction of optional AFS (turning headlights) was a big stepping stone for the 2004 Rx, as well as the optional automatic wipers. It's also apparent that the 04+ AWD and 2WD Rx has a much stronger transmission (haven't heard of a single case of it failing) than the AWD system of the Rx300. I would take the plunge for the 04 <_<

Too boring :o I can barely muster up the energy to wash my car :( ... I usually pay a professional every spring to do it for me. I'm staying away from working with the electronic stuff in the Rx400h that ruined my Rx300, trying to stay with simple things. I've learned my lesson... Just didn't expect the factory wiring to fail

It's most likely that the bulb which illuminates that icon on the gauge cluster is burned out. If you remove the gauge cluster, you can gain access to the bulb from the back of the cluster. You can purchase a new bulb from Lexus for pretty cheap.

Thanks Gryphon :) I knew i couldn't be the only one

Thanks everyone< I think I will make a trip to the dealer and have a chat please let us know how it goes :D i wonder if they'll try to argue about it

Hey guys. On the Rx400h air conditioning unit, there's a button that allows the user to select between "inside circulation" (which is supposed to just re-circulate the inside air) or "outside circulation" (which allows air from outside of the car to be circulated into the car). I like to keep the setting to "inside circulation" only because i can't stand the outside smells such as car fumes, diesel smell, and for anyone who's familiar with route 295 going through Rhode Island, the Johnston Land Fill... But it seems that even with the setting set to "inside circulation" i am still getting outside smells. Not as badly as when i have it set to "outside air", but maybe only 50% better- which is not good enough IMO. In my old Rx300, if you had it set to "inside circulation", NO smells ever entered the car. It was air tight. Is anyone else in the Rx400h (or maybe the Rx330/350) noticing the same thing? When i press and depress the button that toggles between the settings, i can hear "things moving" in the dash, and i can feel the difference in air between the settings- but the smells are still getting in. I replaced the cabin air filter, so it's not that. My next step is to find the air intake spot on the Rx400h, and see if it's sucking in outside air even if the setting is set to "inside circ"... I know in the Rx300, the outside air intake was located in the left rear bumper area, not sure where it is on the Rx400h. Could it be that the "lever" or whatever mechanical device that controls the passage of air in the dash is maybe not closing all the way? Any input appreciated! :)

Good luck :) if you need any help just ask- i'm sure i'll be able to help :)

Thanks for the compliments :) By convert i meant you can simply buy the OEM HID version Rx330/350/400h headlights and switch them out with yours. The headlights size and bolt patterns are exactly the same (not 100% sure- but based on experience, it tells me they are). You don't need to take the headlights apart at all. The wires for the ballast etc can be accessed from outside of the headlights, so you should be good with that too :) Now, there are TWO "types" of the HID Rx330/350 version headlights. Obviously there's the halogen type (the type you have) but there are TWO different types for the HID headlights- which look exactly the same from the outside, so it can be tricky. The first HID version has an HID projector and bulb, with only the auto-leveling. (No AFS function) The second HID version uses a similar HID projector and bulb, but has the components for both the auto leveling AND the AFS system. Aka some 04-09 Rx330/350's out there have HID without the AFS. So if you see an Rx330/350 with HID's, it still not might have AFS. The 06-09 Rx400h's all came with the HID with AFS, but the Rx330 and Rx350's mixed and match. The only way to tell the difference between "HID with AFS" and "HID without AFS" is by looking at the back side of the headlights. I don't have pics, but when researching the headlights you should be able to tell the difference. Some sellers might say "non-AFS" and "AFS" to differentiate the two, but it's best to look. Just don't assume because you see the projector that it must have AFS... The last thing you want to do is get the right side headlight being the HID AFS version and the left side headlight the HID non-AFS version. You'll be able to tell the difference in output and cutoff line shape between the two ;) If you want, you might want to get the HID non-AFS version headlights, this way you can avoid having to worry about aiming the AFS motors... BUT, the projector used in this non-AFS version headlight does not perform as well as the AFS version headlight projector. Personally, i would get the HID AFS version headlights just for the better output :)

You can buy a used set of OEM HID Projector - version 04-09 Rx330/350/400h headlights and do the conversion. The bolt patterns are the same. You will need to do some hardcore wiring though, as the plugs will be very different. You'd need to splice the wires going to your present halogen low beam bulb, and wire them to the HID headlight ballast. The 12V will activate the ballast which will illuminate the HID bulb. No extra harness required, as there's enough current there. Then splice your present high beam bulb to the HID headlight's high beam bulb, which is the same. You will also lose the AFS/Auto-Leveling functions, as these both require special computer and switch components worked into the car's main computer. The halogen car's don't come with the software in the computer, so it wouldn't be possible. There have been people though, who have bought special motor drivers to work the auto-leveling motors, so you can move them manually via a switch you put in the cabin, but again, it would require a lot of wiring. And when buying the HID version headlights, stay away from the 04-06 Rx330 headlights as many of them have a condensation problem you won't find out about until you've already installed them in the car. The headlights produced for the 07-09 Rx350/400h no longer had the problem and are your best bet It'll be a fun project :) Good luck!

If everything is aligned properly (meaning it's just a matter of the steering wheel being off) you can remove the steering wheel and rotate it into the next spline to get it straight- the Rx wheel can operate this way. It might be a lot quicker and cheaper...

I have an 08 Rx400h which uses the same AC unit as the Rx350 does. I too have the white dust problem, but don't yet have the heater smell everyone talks about. I would have lexus replace the bad part, but really don't like the idea of having to lose the car for over a week (I'm under 25 so i can't even get a loaner) and i don't like the idea of them having to take the whole dash out... That only leaves room for them to damage or scratch something.

Ugh. I know it's not a toy, but i can't help myself, i love it.

I have a summer and winter set of rims/tires for my Rx400h (same as Rx350). I purchased a set of 4 uses tire pressure sensors from ebay for about $100, and had the dealer program (add) them. Now, all i need to do is press the button under the glovebox to toggle between each set whenever i switch rims/tires. If you don't get a separate set of 4 sensors, you will get a yellow light in the gauge cluster that will go on after 20mins of driving each time you start it up. In my Rx400h, it actually beeped like crazy too, with a warning on the LCD. And the light in the dash is an LED fixed to the internal circuit board, so it's not like you can even take out the bulb... I was forced to get the sensors and have the dealer program them (requires special computer). They charged me an hours labor, took about a half hour to do. Also, make sure to write down the numbers on the new sensors to give to Lexus as they need the unique numbers to program. And the dealer will program the spare sensor to be in both sets, so it won't cause any problems. As soon as you have it done, you should be good to go :)