mburnickas

I, at times, make the time go by quick with pepsi and Grey Goose!! :D :D

take the 1-hour and like the $100 in parts (and a few wolly pops) and do it yourself!

Welcome to Lexus. I remember the flyers I got. Like $250 for atf change, $85 for brake flush, etc etc. But ha, they wash the car! JOKE! Do it yourself and save like 95%

how do you clean and EGR then?

I think I paid like $2.49 for the can. It works pretty good. I still have lots left. So in a few weeks I want to remove the intake. Just need a few good days so in case some comes up when I do it, I can at least take the gixxer to work.. I was not that bad, but not the best either. I was have to see what gaskets I need first. Thanks again.

Well I was bored today after work so I removed the throttle body and cleaned it. The inside of it was, well, really black (oily grime build up). Removed the iacv (cleaned the portion diameter sticking out) and cleaned the throttle body. I do not have time to remove the complete intake. I did not remove the complete IACV since I do not know if it had a seal on the mating surface. So I kept it on. Do there parts (IACV and intake have a seal? If so, what kind do I need to replace? I used Valvoline SynPower carb, choke and throttle body cleaner. Worked pretty darn good. It took the oily grime stuff right off. Here was basically a new spotless shirt after. http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/lexus/tb_clean.jpg Again my MPG have been from 24 (to work city) and almost 30MPG on highway. I do not have any problems with the car. I was just bored so I did it. And YES thanks SKperformance, Toysrme and some others for the past topics on this. I wish I could have done more but I do not know all the details behind it. Maybe soon…I hope So thanks again... PS. It was a toss up, fly the r/c heli or clean the intake...can't do both! :)

I like the pix. They are worth thousands to me! Keep posting!!!! Thanks :)

I do not think it is/was worth it when I got my 98. I hate when the sales people push it. I then always say, “Is the car that bad I need it”.

I agree but most times (if you do your homework) you get what you pay for. Do you want a sharp cheap TV or a Toshiba? Do you want a UGO or a Lexus. Do you want a cheap walmart battery or an optima? Again most times you get what you pay for. You want cheap go to walmart. You want better quality buy OEM for example. And yes there is a differenace from a better quality or just being ripped off. Most times (at least for me), if you start worrying about price, you have bigger problems and should not be shopping. But then I would never put Bosh or Champion in my car nor my bike either. :D ...For me, price is #8 on my list out of 10 things to worry about with my cars/autos.

I know the dealer messed with you but it is hard to prove they did not change them all. Your word to there’s and you are not gonna win I think. I am not starting a war here but ALL the plugs in my eyes look bad.I change mine every 60K and every other year on my bike (no matter the miles). My bike ones look new when removed but they are cheap in the long run. Plus I do not want performance issues down the road with cheaper colder plugs. I changed to Denco plugs about 30K miles ago in the ES.. They are cheap in my eyes. What is $66 (for Iridium) in the long run???? That is $0.0011 per mile for 60K intervals….You can buy Denso Multi-ground plugs for like $6 each (PK20TR11) , Iridium plug for like $11 each (IK20) or go to NGK Multi-ground plugs (BKR6EKPB-11) for $11.Yes you could put a $2 traditional spark plug in the engine but why would you? I did not spend this amount of money to nickel and dime the parts.

Did you look at the difference in prices? The prices on the site you're suggesting are about 9% higher than on the site I used, but with the free shipping, as opposed to 15% on the site I use, it does come out cheaper. On higher prices items (like the lenses I'm going to order) it definitely makes a difference. Thanks for the heads up! Supercat ← ??????????I know for me, these website has the cheapest parts I can find, on OEM. There price...79.09 Newlexusparts...78.76 (still cheaper)!!! :D :D :D :D :D

Check this out brotha: Pillar Moldings As Toysrme wrote, this should be an easy pull. There are two retainer clips behind the moldings. I guess just be careful so you don't snap the clips...although you could always order those as well LOL And, for $35 each, I think it's a good investment. I wish I would've thought of this sooner. Maybe I'll get a set and use the CF ones for show. ← Nice place but you need to add shippingng and handling on it(15% I think). ere is a better site with FREE SHIPPING ON ALL PARTS! *SEE a topic I asked on*** http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=18685&hl=

Well I was bored on Friday night, yes bored so I did the brake fluid on my car. I used the one-man brake fluid extractor from griots garage (link below) http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=85700 Come to find out #1, read the instructions fist since ABS is different and #2, IT WORKED great! The brake fluid is nice and shiny. I have a 5 HP air compressor and did not want one that uses it (too much work). So I got this one for $69.99. Just wanted to say it works pretty dare good for bleed brakes (with one person) and removing all the fluid from the reservoir. As much as some or there item are overpriced this little guy, save me about $30. Dealer bleeding is like $90 to $100 Just sharing the info!

In the top pix, it looks like someone needs to spend about $1.00 on some rad hose clamps; zip ties to not work all the time! :D ;)

It should be on the valve cover. Also it takes about 45 seconds to do. I also put some silicone or light grease (very small amount) on the new one so it is easy to push in. Side note: I replace them every 35 to 45K miles since they are cheap. Just put on in yesterday. It cost $5.95 (shipped and an OEM one)!

Without seeing the drawings of the casting and machining I can’t answer this topic/thread. Unless you have them you are guessing also. I only say this since any machining houses and manufactures handle all drawing by rev control. You can have a engine made 1 year ago and be different based on rev control. You could have EC’ed a tolerance from +/- .005 to +/- .002 for example. Still be the same engine, same part number etc. You will not see anything different unless you inspect every part. Unless you pull back all older engines, they are different based on the functionally of all designs. And yes making a cooling line smaller (for example) WILL have an effect on sludge. It is basic thermodynamcics here; it takes the Q and Q” delta different. At least this is what I know from my engineering background. We had airplanes, yes airplanes , stop working and make emergency landing a few months back from a $4 resistor on a engine control. Try and track that down and see what control was made from what rev on the drawing….

The engine in a 2003ES is identical to the 2002ES, so how come that's not included with these problems??? Also, the engines in the '04 and '05 ES's just have increases in HP....nothing more....same basic engine. ← No clue but just because they are the same engine does not mean there did minor rev's on internal machining issues. Same engine does not mean "identical". You can have the same engine part numbers put the engineers rev'ed or made an engineering change to the casting, for example. So you can start with an engine and make changes, internal and external, and you the cusomter will never know. If they are bumping up the HP they are doing something; ie, changing psiton dia, making plumbing lines smaller or larger, thinning walls etc.

Let me add some light here. 1) the years of the engines affected are 1996 to 2002 2) There is/are not doc stated from Lexus that you must do anything. All I have see on my letters is, “All we ask is that you show a reasonable effort to regularly maintain your vehicle” I have already read, and I will try to find it that you only need (1) oil change per year to show you did anything. 3) The engine replacement program is only 8-years from the original date. 4) Here is my webpage since I have been following this for about 2 years now. http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/lexus/oil/oil_sludge.htm

i got a stock set out of a g35 with d2r bulbs, and orderes h7 adaptors. :) only cost me 175 bucks :) ← I agree you can do it cheaper but most times it is low cost ballast and bulbs. YOu will not find Phillips for that price.

I agree but my inlaws and close friends own gas stations and garages. Even my father-in-law worked for Gulf oil. There suppliers goes to them, then right down the road to other brand name stations. A lot of the no-name brands are Gulf from what I know…which is not much! J

I disagree here. Do any oil test on any new car with 500 miles then one with 5,000. Big delta in wear and some other levels. I have seen it, big time. Clear as day here. Iron higher on rings (& Moly), Silver from bearing might be a few PPM higher (along with Al) and lastly, you will have higher fuel in oil the first few miles. From what I read in my scanner book, the codes stay in there for 45 car starts. Unless you pull the ECU fuse (bad move I feel) you are not solving anything. Even when you pull the fuse, you are not solving the problem. For a short time the light or ecu will learn then more the likely go back to his low MPG. With a good scanner, you can test O2 sensors, fuel, idle, rpms, temps, speed, reset Mil codes (and DTC) , Non-Continuous Tests etc. I know I can and the scanners are cheap

I do, cause it cost me less than $20 and 20 minutes in my driveway. I do it cause I like to. steviej ← Ok :D , All my point was that you more then lightly are not saving or preventing anything unless you know all about the fluid.

It should get better since you are still in break in. I use 89 for the summer and 87 for the winter. Filled up today with my Es300 (98) 351 miles for 13.438 gallons...26.19 allgoing to work and in the city..... with AC on! :D :D :D

The least risky, least costly and least complicated procedure is to drain the pan overnight (to get more of the oil fluid out), measure the amount drained and refill with the same amount. Drive the car normally for a day or two and repeat the procedure. A total of 4 times. Then to back to regular intervals (15k). If you have the time and interest, you can also drop the transmission oil pan and clean the pan, the magnets in the pan and the metal mesh fluid strainer, and install a new pan gasket but this isn't critically important until the transmission has alot of miles (150K or more) because the magnets and strainer normally don't get very dirty until 150K or more. The least risky fluid to use is the type of fluid that's engraved on your transmission fluid dipstick (which on your '96 ES is probably Dexron II or III fluid) from a major oil company like Mobil, Chevron, Shell, etc., or Toyotas own Dexron fluid http://www.saber.net/~monarch/typeTDexron.jpg available from Toyota dealers. Some Toyota / Lexus dealers and specialty shops refuse to flush transmissions because there is a small risk of transmission failure soon afterwards and they don't want to take a chance on having to replace a $4,000 transmission every month or two. ← I agree on the flushing part. Flushing a tranny is as bad as added an oil engine flush before changing oil. Asking for issues down the road. But his 96 (up to 2001 I think) all use DEX 3 fluid, not Type T. Then lastly, who does 15K drains here? I never did those even when i used a non synthetic ATF fluid. Always did/do 25 to 45K drains. I will be testing my ATF fluid on this next run. Just to see how it [tranny] is doing...

I would just drain and refill. Also do the filter every other time if you wish. I would not flush anything.