Alexander the o.k.

Nikon

Zeus

Damn MP. This has got to be driving you nuts! Just had another thought since you've done everything else it seems like. Can you put your scope and video setup on another correctly running LS and look for any slight differences? Just another long shot, but maybe it'll give you a clue to look in some other area. Compare the vids to each other. Also, try checking all ground wires, everywhere. Tighten all. As always, good luck...

Have you pulled the codes? Do that 1st. Also, check the trunk hinge wire harness.

Agreeden. Very nice... Lexus sure got it right with the 1st gen body style. Lowest drag co-efficient of any production car I believe, at that time. Not bad for a big ol 8 banger. I thinks it's .28 or so. Anyone remember the one with the head on shot of an ls coming right at the camera, running fast and smooth. Then the camera angle rises until you see that the left side wheels are actually running over train tressels, and the suspension is keeping the cabin at the same steady ride as the right side which is on roadway? Incredible.

Reel

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Are you sure it's not just a guy masquerading as a Lexus tech with a fake uniform ? Seriously, I'd look for a diff dealer quick, before they put you through the well known, very slow, and incredibly expensive 'part you to death' torture. They're of course holding back on the 'labor cost' you to death sequence of this slow torture until they've more fully sucked you into the routine mentioned above..... Make no mistake. They are even now, mentally calculating how big your 401k is, and if there is any way to get at it. Check with a diff dealer and ask if AC code 21 means "power transistor", or as is actually the case, a fan speed resistor.

I wouldn't rush out and buy any more parts until we you get a little closer to the actual problem. ;) A code 21 = Solar Sensor Circuit which you don't have. So.... maybe run the diagnostic again and double check. Do it in bright sunlight, cause if you actually do have a solar sensor, it will give that code if you run it in shade or at night. I think solar sensors came only in 2nd gens' and not our 1st gen cars (90-94). Someone clarify this.

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Hey Jim, Since I lost my job during that time, I have been unable to pursue it. What was interesting to note, is just recently when outside temps were in the 70's I believe, the med and low started working again! I pulled the AC codes and got a 13, which is: 13 ................. Evaporator Temperature Sensor Circuit. So my guess is the temp sensor controls the variable speed fan resistor. I think the lower ambient temps fell below the sensor's parameters and 'tricked' it into closing. Still, no use having AC that only works when it's cool out. It will still require tearing apart the dash to get at it. Pull your AC codes to get a better idea of what's really wrong. By the way, I grew up and was a Surfer Dude in VA Bch, and used to drive thru Hamton Roads all the time on the way to see my GF and go to Busch Gardens. Good luck. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...?showtopic=3794 Thanks again SK!!! Edit* Here ya go; http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...st&id=10513 Removal: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...st&id=10514

Just a thought here. Try calling a 'yoda dealer and ask for an exploded view of the lca bushing and mount and see if they are the same or 'close enough' for the Avalon and LS. If they are ask if they will sell just the bushing and mount. I'm wondering if the mount has become hard and brittle and is causing the issue...

Sounds electrical to me. It should go into 'Limp' mode, and never cut out while driving. You should pull all engine codes and post them here. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html Also, clean your battery terminals, tighten well and add dielectric grease. Then the old chronic Ls issue would be my favorite go to: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=50087 "This same type of problem happened to me about a year ago. This smooth world class car started balking, cutting out, lurching, wild rpms, dash flickering, radio went out when hitting the brakes, just seemed ready for the junk yard. It happened all of a sudden. No warning. I thought the engine was toast. Now it's smooth as silk w/ 255,000 miles on it. Open the trunk. On the left side you will see a wire harness on the left hinge. After repeated openings and closings the wires inside that harness become fatigued and frayed. Then they start shorting out. Then sputtering, stalling, and everything you describe. This is a design flaw and lexus knows it. If this describes your problem, then remove the plastic bracket on the left hinge, strip down the harness, untwist all the wires, re-connect, then re-tape. Make sure to leave off the hinge bracket that ensures tension on the harness. Just let the whole mess swing free and loose. In my case, problem solved, and no spending thousands of dollars in diagnostics, parts, and tech snafus. Best of all, it's free. Takes about 30 minutes." Post back what you find at the hinge, and any codes and other symptoms you have.

No use guessing. Since you have a trouble light, chances are, you also have a trouble code stored. Search the term ' engine trouble codes '. Better yet here's the link: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html I would also check all fuses. Let me ask you; was the cigarette lighter out of it's socket , and did a penny or gum wrapper happen to fall into the CL socket and short it? Post back what the code is so we can help. Should take less than 10 minutes to retrieve it. Could also be a bad ground somewhere, which leads me to the next semi-obvious issue: search ' trunk wire harness '. Let us know what the code is.

Thanks very much for taking the time to post the solution Gumart1. So few people ever bother to post back once they've found the solution, and so, none of us learn a thing. So, Kudos to you, and of course to NCO, for setting you on the right track. Congrats!