SKperformance

autozone only carries an obd2 scanner which read basic engine codes it does not read manufature codes like the srs ,abs,trac and other sytems which only $5000 scanners can do BTW kat what grade octane gas do you use?

I am not getting into the heglagent part as it seems to happen to properly maintained vehicles because of an engineering flaw of extreme heat build up sludging the engien ,not because it wasn;t changed on tiem which is the normal case. This is the reason they change the engine for free. So VGR you might need to redirect your ideas on this engine and its problems. If an engine burns oil it smokes, it is second nature for a progressive burning of oil to coat the cat causing the reaction of unburnt fuel to stop activating the honeycomb as it is coated and cannot react with it to heat up . Thus like every other motor which burns oil it kills the cat. A motorvac might just bring the cat back if it is just dirty.

I didn't have problems for a few months either until it fell apart from the inside

well you need to switch the bulbs to see which one is bad

you need to figure out what is bad first the bulb or the ballsts by stiching the bulbs around

Window weld breaks down over time. You mgiht get a better chance of doing it by applying it in layers over a week for each layer to cure

You may have air which is highly likly .

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Glad to help.

If you have crappy jumper cables they usually will not help transfer enough power to start. I am unsure what you are saying in your last post. Did you now change the battery in the car? "i went and changed the battery.It worked fine." then you say "I'll try again to make a new battery is running " Those two ideas contradict eachother and i have no clue what you are trying to say you did or didn;t do.

I think you need a new battery. When is the last time it started? When you gave the car a jump start from another car ,how long did you let the good car idle to restore it before starting your dead car .

The bulb is not in properly or its base is off alignment and is pointing down.

It means you do not have enough battery power to the starter. The noise is the solenoid motor trying to engage the high current starter motor but as soon as it does engage the starter it loses charge and the solenoid retracts as it has a voltage drop to great to keep itself engaged. Thus the process keeps repeating and you hear a clicking.

I am now turning this event into a Lexus,BMW and Mercedes meet for a total luxury event. Total clubs involved will be www.lexusownersclub.com www.clublexus.com www.toyotanation.com www.isimpressions.net www.is300.net www.maxbimmer.com www.bimmerforums.com www.benzworld.org www.mbclubcanada.com Should be an amazing event to be carried oever into the following months

To have more bass you need to port the trunk into the cabin. So if their is an oem subwoofer in the rear parcel shelf remove it to alow the air to expand inside the cabins enclosure

Basic synthetics leave the film also but higher end ones which make a home oil change 2 or 3 times more expensive but last longer tend to remove the films nicley. Switching to a synthetic now might be ok but be prepared for basic leaks as it usually loosens debris causing gaskets to dry . The new synthtic cleans it and it starts to leak now that the band aid is removed.

I am unsure of what battery cranking up means? Is the starter motor turning over ? Is it making a rapdi clicking noise but the engine is not turnign over?

The suspension on a 97-01 camry /es300 are exact same the engines are not hope this helps

your engine is obd1 search for threads o how to chec the codes and it will narrow your problem down

their is a special edition i ahev only heard of one other one the details are ont the lexus website

You only have 3 wires on your mirrors? Yours open close shake heat and move up/down left/right with only 3 wires? Are you using the relay to control the mirrors once you press the momentary switch?

I read all the forums and 80% of all posts. I never read the ones with dumb titles like "help" or "i need help" with no details in the it.

How much did you pay for it. It is the one with a small resevoir that heats the fluid in it ,right. I like the benz ML stlye heaters for the headlights. It runs the fluid through the casing for the foglights to heat them. A really neat idea.

Yes the bulbs are jsut liek those 31 mm one i have on my car. I was planning on adding another at some point in time as i can finally see in my tiny civics black interior. The biggest difference was the same bulb i use for my trunk, now that was a ray of sunshine in their finally. My bulbs come in a pack of 2 for $10 . It is made by eurolight but most of them should all be about the same besides the piaa ones.

I have 2 sets both in my basment as i haven't gotten 4 wires fully figured out for the schematics. If yours stopped working i hope you didn't use the control units position wire to power the motors as it will work but it burns out the cuircutry in the relay and mirrors.