George_Jetson

There are two different mounting styles. I have a 93, and it uses a flange with two studs, 12 mm nuts. The other style has the sensor threading into the manifold with a 7/8 or 22 mm nut (they make a special socket, but on most cars a box end wrench works fine. On most cars I have worked on the connector does fit thru the box end wrench (used to work on cars professionally, so I have replaced a few). If you are good with a soldering iron, you could purchase universal sensors, and solder the old connectors onto the new sensors. Many people prefer Denso, I personnelly prefer Bosch. You can buy them on ebay much cheaper than from Toyota, or Lexus.

It probably is the sensor, but it could also be a fuse, wiring or a relay. Sometimes the sensors get rusted into place and are difficult to remove. It is worth the effort to measure the heater to verify that is indeed the problem before you attempt to remove it. Especially the rear one (I replaced both main sensors on mine a few weeks back). Front one is easy, rear one is a pain.

o2sensor_check.pdf The Air fuel sensors are located on the exhaust manifold. Bank 1 is the rear bank (next to the firewall, and a pain to get to). sensor 1 is the one closest to the head, attached is a pdf that shows how to measure the heater resistance. I would recomend ohming out the heater before you they to replace it. o2sensor_check.pdf

So far I have not found any further info on this. I have searched the schematics and mechanical drawings on Alldata, and there is no indication of a separate idle control on these cars. Since you used to own one do you recall, or did you ever have to work on the idle control valve? Everything I can find indicates that there is no separate idle control, and logically if the computer has complete controll over the throttle, there should be no need for a separate controll valve. If anyone has access to a service manual, I would appreciate if you would could upload the relevent section. I am very interested in finding out what the actual setup is.

Well either my copy of Alldata is wrong, (which it has been before), or Park Place has labled the throttle control servo poorly. Unfortunately they do not post a picture of this. I do not have access to a 2002, so I am only going off manuals. Do you have access to one?

Ops, my bad. I looked at the correct schematic, and there is a substantial differences.

97foglight.pdf This is the schematic, if you notice the upper left hand side shows the difference between the american, and canadian versions. It appears that all you need to do is swap the one wire to convert you lights.

Could be the starter again, you need to measure the voltage going to the starter soleniod. Have a assistant turn the key to the start position while you measure the voltage at the solenoid (the smaller, 14 gauge wire, not the larger one). You should be seeing around 12 volts. Next measure the voltage at the larger wire (O gauge). It should be around 12 volts all of the time. When you try to start the car, the voltage will drop a couple volts, make note of app how far it drops. For safety, stand off to the side of the car while doing this. Do not stand in front of the car while anyone is trying to start it. Push the probes into the connectors that you are measuring, so that you do not have to hold the leads. And position the meter so that you can see the meter without holding it. This way if the car moves, you will not be in a position to be harmed.

As far as the key fob, have you tried replacing the battery inside the key? If you do not know how long the battery has been in there, it would be a good idea to start with replacing the battery. I would recomend purchasing a new battery at Radio Shack. As far as noise, there is a fex joint in the exhaust pipe, it is located underneath the engine. It is possible there is a hole in the flex joint. If you find a leak, I would recomend checking the upper engine torque mount (the short bar, by the passenger side strut). If this mount is bad, the engine will rock back and forth more than it should. This will put additional strain on the exhaust flex joint.

Scott, I think you will find every fuel injectied car with a throttle body has some kind of idle air control valve or idle speed control mechanism. The ES most certainly does. steviej On these cars, the throttle body is controlled by the ECM. The gas pedal sends a electronic signal, (actually two potentiometers, one starts at a low voltage, the other starts high). The ECM reads the position, and determines the appropriate position to place the throttle blade. Since the ECM has complete control of the throttle, there is no longer a need to have a separate control for the idle. The ECM just comands the throttle to open to a appropriate amount to set the idle speed. I assume from the previous posts, that the original problem was the throttle body had deposits, and they cleaned them off.

why was your IACV not a problem before you disconnected the battery? steviej Just a guess- its probably because of the way they work- they allow a certain amount of air in and mine was covered in carbon. The computer over time had told it to open more to compensate for the carbon, however when I disconnected the battery, I assume that the computer was saying "hey, you cant open that far that fast! I am just idling!" hate to tell you stevie, Iam 99% sure 02& 03 do not not have a IACV Scott You are correct Scott, this year does not have a IACV.

It is a paste, use a shop rag to rub it in for a few mins, and wash it off. Cleans it up good enough for a daily driver.

Glad to hear it worked, I was starting to get real confused. It really sounded like the position pot. Yea next time you drop by maybe lunch, or at least a starbucks (I work odd hours).

One suggestion, I would check the motor mounts, especially the top mount (near the shock tower). Once the rubber in this mount wears out, it allows the engine to rock back and forth more than it should. This puts more stress on the exhaust flex joint, and could contribute to failure of the joint.

Sounds like you found it, if the position sensor was not moving smoothly that would explain the code. Glad to have helped. Have both codes cleared without returning? And have you noticed any difference with drivability ? (my quess would be not).

With this many miles, I would check the flex couplings on the exhaust pipe, there is a good chance that they are starting to leak.

97egr.pdf Interesting, I uploaded a file that also includes the 402 code. I admit I am a little confused that the P1410 code did not re-appear. Does your scanner display senor input values? If not use a DVM and closely check the egr valve position sensor, I would also recomend the hand held pump. I am starting to suspect that the egr valve is OK, and that your problem is the control soleniod is leaking by. I would recomend purchasing the Harbor Freight ITEM 92474-0VG, for $20. It has a vac gauge built in. You could use it to manually open the valve, (key on, engine off). Back probe the egr connector with a couple Pins. Then you could use the pump to check the solenoid for leakage.

97egr.pdf Interesting, I uploadeda file that also includes the 402 code. I admit I am a little confused that the P1410 code did not re-appear. Does your scanner display senor input values? If not use a DVM and closely check the egr valve position sensor, I would also recomend the hand held pump. I am starting to suspect that the egr valve is OK, and that your problem is the control soleniod is leaking by. I would recomend purchasing the Harbor Freight ITEM 92474-0VG, for $20. It has a vac gauge built in. You could use it to manually open the valve, (key on, engine off). Back probe the egr connector with a couple Pins. Then you could use the pump to check the solenoid for leakage.

The steering noise could be a loose belt. As far as the engine, it is not possible to tell without details. There could be problems that will get worse if you continue to drive it.

If you are just looking to get them clear again, with minimun effort / time. Use "Mothers Mag cleaner" Takes 5 mins and the lens are clear, I used it a year ago and it still looks decent (and the sun down here in TX is hard on these lens). Now I am sure sanding and clear coat will give much better results, but for a cheap, fast fix, this works well.

That is one possibility, but you have more than just the solenoids located inside the transmission.

I am a little surprised that you seem to be firmly against the Bosch sensors. I have used them many times without issue,especially when you consider the fact that Bosch invented the O2 sensor, which also implies that they have the most experience making them. I realize that there are people having issues with the cars, especially such as a cat P0420 code, but I suspect that the underlying cause is not really the sensor.

97_egrvalve.pdf Here's the complete writeup on that code. I read a good part of this, and from reading between the lines I assue that beyond the scope of this code it could get a little more complicated. But considering the mileage / age of the car, I would bet that it is the valve itself. I would not recomend cleaning the valve for this code. The computer see the voltage feedback as out of range, so in this particular case, cleaning would probably not help. I would recomend purchasing a hand held vac pump (places such as harbor freight sell one for $20). It is good for checking sensors, vac diaphrams, and such. I have one, and so far over the years I have yet to use it for bleeding brakes, but just about everything else.

o2sensor_check.pdf Here, read this, it has a good description on how to check the heaters. If the front one is bad, my recomendation is to replace both bank 1, 1 and bank 2,1 sensors.

The P0125 code is misleading, in the flow chart for troubleshooting the code it states that if there are any other codes present to fix those first. So with that in mind, The easiest code to look at would be P1155, for the heater circuit. Since this is bank 2, (next to the rad) it is very easy to measure the resistance of the O2 sensor heater. Chances are you will find it open. If this is the case, I would stop at this point and purchase two O2 sensors. I purchase universal sensors, (I prefer bosch, many people like Denso sensors), with universal sensors, you need to re-use the connectors. I strongly recomend soldering the connections, and using heat shrink. After you have replaced both sensors, clear you codes, and then see if any return. The first code is possibly caused by the others, and may not return once the other codes are fixed.