ryan_h

Okay, I lied... I can confirm that the doors needed slamming harder WITH THE ENGINE ON :) because it sure as H*LL didn't work with the engine off! Thanks!

why was your IACV not a problem before you disconnected the battery? steviej Just a guess- its probably because of the way they work- they allow a certain amount of air in and mine was covered in carbon. The computer over time had told it to open more to compensate for the carbon, however when I disconnected the battery, I assume that the computer was saying "hey, you cant open that far that fast! I am just idling!"

I will have to try disconnecting the battery & NO! I do not have the lockout switch activated :). Thats the first thing I checked! Ha... Sorry for no response... I have been on vacation :). The door slamming idea, while novel, and completely understandable did not work as I figured it wouldn't because of my luck. Will update as soon as I have tried something new :).

SORRY! GUYS! Idle Air Control Valve was the problem..... THATS IT! Just needed to be cleaned- it was covered in carbon! Should take you about 30-45 mins to fix :).

This one is a bit odd. I walked out to my 2002 ES300 the other day, pushed and held the door unlock button to open the windows and sunroof.... front windows went down, sunroof opened... but BOTH rear windows stayed up. I got in the car and tried to push the interior switch- they may the small noise (almost a very faint click- same as all other windows in the car and on my older ES) that they do when they first open (the mechanical noise of the motor requesting the windows to go down), but the rear windows don't go down. Same thing happens if you push the window buttons in the back seat - slight, normal noise, and no window movement. Is it not odd that seemingly both motors would go out on the exact same day at the exact same time? I don't think thats possible... I haven't checked the fuses yet, but correct me if I am wrong, if the fuse was blown I would hear NO Noise from them .... Please advise :) and thanks in advance. Ryan

Yeah, I knew 200 was low, I was thinking around 650 to 800 myself. I had been running 87 octane gasoline and put in 14 gallons of 93, which helped somewhat, and took it on a 100 mile interstate trip. It **HELPED** but not much at all. I think I am going to clean the idle air control valve tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I am taking it in. Unless anyone has any other ideas! Thanks though! I will keep you all posted as to what it is! Ryan

Update: Cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor today. Still nothing. The car will idle around 200 RPM if the engine is cold but as soon as it heats up, it will die. I understand auto theoreticals but I really don't know too much as I have never actually done it myself. Anyone have any ideas? I am willing to do just about anything!

Today, I replaced the drivers side headlight on my 2002 es300. to do so, I had to disconnect the battery to see what I was doing and fit my hand. When I reconnected the battery and went to start the car, it started as normal for about 1 second, then died. I then found out I could keep it alive by holding down the gas (try having to drive 20 miles attempting to keep the car alive this way). Any ideas? Called the dealership this afternoon and the guy in the service department told me to keep the car idling around 650 rpm for 10-15 minutes and the car would relearn correct fuel/air ratios. Did this to no avail. No Check Engine light, car runs fine and always has until disconnecting the battery. HELP!