steviej

try Pioneer directly, try Toyota/Lexus. Lastly try www.crutchfield.com contact salvage yards and re-cut the ends you need and slice back or get the entire harness if necessary. sj

There is no aftermarket manual (Haynes, Chilton) for the 92-96 ES per say. However it has been said on CL that the Camry manual for the same years is sufficient for simple tasks. There have been ebay sitings of CD ROM based repair manuals for the year in question. I cannot speak to the quality or reputability of these items since I never worked with them. I can say that I have not heard great reports on them, though. The general Chilton books (Imports 88-92, 93-97, etc) will touch on Lexus and these books can usually be found at you local library. The best source if you plan to do alot of work is the actual shop manual ordered at your Lexus or Toyota parts counter. This will put you into three figures per manual. Some years have two volumes. steviej

are you frugal or just cheap? my dad says he is frugal but he will pinch a penny so hard Lincoln will !Removed!. I call that cheap. As for the car: start with the cheap stuff (most is DIY) Definately do this: 1. replace air filter 2. run a few tank fulls of gas with Chevron fuel injector cleaner (w/Techron)...don't use an off name brand. Or better yet, have a professional FI cleaning (~$75-90 US) 3. Replace the plugs. regardless of what the adds tell you, 121,000 is way too much for plugs. If you don't replace them, at least check and regap them. 4. if you have a replaceable fuel filter......replace it. 5. replace the PCV valve. a $5.00 item can make the world of difference. 6. If the 93 SC has a distributor then points and rotor is a must. I would think a 93 has elec. ignition with coil packs but I don't know the SC as well as my ES. These are the 5 basics, in additon to what you have already done (oil and filter). Just out of curiosity, with no tune up in 121k miles, what is your current gas mileage? steviej

Ask to take the car overnight and drive it as you would your own. If the dealer is serious about selling the car and they feel you are serious about buying the car, then yes they will let you take a demo overnight (at least my dealer did). I explained that Iwanted to experience the car at night as well as in the daylight. Visibility and blind spots change with lighting. A car that rides and drives well in daylight may be a total terror at night. You never know until you ask. Steviej

I don't think you have to go that far. Kneel in the back seat facing out the back. Grasp the plastic cover with both hands and pull it towards you then with you thumbs try to hook the part of the cover opposite the window and push up. The cover should just pop up. If it does not, you might need the help of a flat head screwdriver just under one corner. Be very careful, you don't want to break any tabs nor do you want to put the screwdriver so far in it will puncture the speaker if you have one under there. Then remove the bulb. Simply grasp the bulb and pull up. It should come right out. Replace with the same type of bulb (should be about $2 and change). I think it is sylvania #7440 (same as rear turn and back up light). Grasp the new bulb with a tissue....don't touch the bulb with your fingers. Place it in where the old came out. Go step on the brake and make sure it works. Replace the cover. Enjoy the rest of you day. B) I just did this on my friends 98 Avalon. Should be the same or very similar. steviej.

wicked nice rims. I particularly like the Nestles Crunch wheel weight (front_lip.jpg). :P Wheels and summer treads are next on my list. steveij

This was the first weekend in New England since November that I saw it over 40°F. So I went to the beach. :D steviej

SW03ES is right. It is the rubber weatherstripping that is not sealing correctly anymore. Buy a silicone spray and soak a cloth well, then run the cloth all over the rubber weatherstripping. This may help and is a cheap way out. If the rubber is too dried out, then no amount of silicone will revitalize the dried stuff. Replacement is a thought. Lexus will be priced at top dollar. Look to some body shops in your area. Find out where they buy from. Also try on line. A suggestion that comes right to mind is JC Whitney. www.jcwhitney.com If they don't have it preformed and precut, you may be able to buy it by the yard. good luck steviej

I'm not sure what year it started but all three buttons (unlock, lock/panic, trunk) were moved to the keyhead and the fob was eliminated. It's nice but makes for a fat head. In the key for my 02 there is a transmitter chip in the head and a reciever in the dash. The two have to communicate in order for the car to start. The valet key has a chip and is also programmable. The flat key holder now has a chip in it, too. Now the flat key will start the car if the holder is passed in front of the dashboard near the AC/radio displays. I think the conversion was around 2000. For the fun of it, try the instructions for your Dad's Avalon with your key fob. I can't see why Toy/Lex would have multiple programming instructions if the security systems are similar or even same. steviej

hey skp, I'm still on the old school measuring system. I had to convert your stuff so I could comprehend. 600km = 375 mi mixed 1000km = 625 mi highway 450 km = 282 mi local assuming an 18.5g tank, that comes out to 20.3 MPG mixed 33.2 MPG highway 15.2 MPG local If my calculations are correct, that's a big flucuation between local and highway. <_< steviej

I have an '02 ES300 with the most recent version of the 1MZ-FE 3.0L V6. (mine has VVT-i and a 5 spd automatic). I always run 93 octane. I average 21 MPG around town and close to 29 on all out highway (~75 mph). The only non stock item is the oil.......... synthetic Mobil-1 5w-30. steviej

Oweners manuals are only about $20 form the dealer, more if you get the leather pouch and suppl. owners manual. You can get them online too from www.Lexus.com Or you could try ebay. I was just there and there are several for various year ES's. Some even come with the leather pouch and the supplemental owners manual. Do a search on "LEXUS ES". I have a 02 and could photocopy any pages you want, but I don't know if any changes have been made. My feeling, get an owner's manual for the car. Should you resell, it will increase your value a tiny bit more. Steviej

synthetic oil and filter every 5,000 miles or every 4 months. You can't go wrong. use a good filter (Toyota, Mobil 1, K&N) that has a back-flow valve. steviej

no no no Steve. It happened on CL. There is a new ES moderator that critiqued one of skp's posts. The mod's comment was not called for in a public forum. This kinda thing should have been taken to PM or not said at all. I was going to call him on it, but decided to shut up. I ain't no Webster's either. skp, like Nabeel said, your techincal knowledge has always been very helpful to me. Thanks, steviej PS, I have to say, this site or the software for this site does offer somethings CL's doesn't. The best one, is once you go to a thread and leave it, the envelope on the first page goes away. On CL you have to log out and come back in to update the threads you have read.

Monty, as stated it all depends on driving conditions, time and miles driven. No you do not have to get the oil at Lexus. Dino oil should not be given much more that 3-4k miles or at least every 4 months. Synthetics can go higher, 5-6k miles. (but SW03ES, I think the 15,000 mile is way to high, sorry) I don't care for dino/syn blends so I won't mention them. You can use whatever oil you want with some rules in mind. 1. Always use the API grade or better as indicated in your manual or on the oil fill cap. In 1995 I believe the rating was SF or SG. In 2002 it was up to SJ. 2. Use the SAE (viscosity) indicated for your car. 95 ES was probably 5w-30 when new. If you have over 75k miles on it, you may want to go with 10w-30. 3. Always put in the amount the owner's manual called for. Any more can damage the engine as well as less. 4. Lastly.......when changing oil......CHANGE THE FILTER. Use a good filter that has a back-flow valve. (Mobil 1, Toyota, K&N are superior and run around $10 US) This is an easy DIY in the driveway, just discard the old oil properly. If you need a step by step just ask...the tricky part is getting to the oil filter without burning your wrist. Lastly, if anyone tells you that once you go synthetic, you can't go back. Tell them go sit on an oil filter. This was/is a myth created by the oil manufacturers to make money. Synthetics cost more but offer more advantages. I run Mobil 1 synthetic oil and Mobil 1 filter (purchased at AutoZone). I may change to the K&N filter cause of the ability to put a socket on it. The current position of the filter makes it hard to get an oil filter wrench on the Mobil 1 or Toyota filter to go that last 3/4 turn after gasket stop. need help......just ask.....there a plenty of knowledgable people on this site. steviej

skp....I believe you! The first known spark plug was invented on February 2, 1839 by Edmond Berger. France dominated the spark plug market in the early 1900s, supplying gasoline engine manufacturers with only a limited line of plug configurations. They were also known to be quite costly and had substandard quality. Albert Champion was born in France in 1878. In 1889, a renowned bicycle and motorcycle racer, Champion came to America to compete in a series of races. He had brought several bicycles and motorcycles, but found parts very hard to find in the United States. As a result, Champion made his own. To help pay bills and cover expenses, Champion began making spark plugs and sold them to friends. Champion's love of motors slowly turned towards automobiles and he later returned to France to open a shop that manufactured spark plugs and magnetos. In 1900, Champion returned to America after being hired by Charles Metz to race bicycles and motorcycles for the Waltham Manufacturing Company. In 1904, Champion moved to Flint, Michigan where he founded Champion Ignition Company for the manufacturing of spark plugs. With the help of investors, Champion was able to turn his racing hobby into a successful business. Unfortunately, problems with the investors soon lead to a break up. Champion soon found himself without a company. The investors continued to manufacture the spark plugs under the Champion name, but Champion himself was out of a job. In 1908 with the backing of the Buick Motor Co., Champion began a new company called the AC Spark Plug Company. Albert Champion was appointed president. In 1916 Alfred P. Sloan formed United Motors Corp. and eventually acquired Buick and AC Spark Plug. On October 27, 1927, Champion died of a heart attack. General Motors purchased the remaining stock held by Champion's estate and took over the AC company. On December 1st of that year, AC became a full division of General Motors. In 1971, United Motors Service was renamed United Delco Division. A few years later United Delco and the AC Spark Plug Division combined to form the company we know today as AC-Delco. To this day Albert Champion's name lives on with every AC and Champion spark plug made. I believe you on the Phillips lighting thing too. Phillips I think is also the original manufacturer of the laser for CD players when they first came out.

hey skp, nice to see you. I was going to put my .02 in on the comment the new mod made but then decided to just shut my mouth. I didn't want to get marked or further still...banned. In the world of text messaging and rapid typing, I always knew what you were saying. steviej

I have HID also and opted for the PIAAs in the high. The color was very close to the HID so I stopped my comparison shopping there. As for the PIAAs, the only thing I can say is WOW!B) They were $75/pr from a performance shop compared to the $30/ea for Silverstars from Lappens (general autoparts store). I am very pleased with the PIAAs but cannot comment on the Silverstars (9005ST) cause I haven't tried them yet. steveij

Nabeel, nice to see you. Thanks for thinking of me in the other thread. steviej, aka: Steve Johnson, an avid Red Sox fan just outside of Boston, MA on the South Shore near the watah (sorry, water). My ride: 2002 Millenium Silver ES300 with HID and premium sound w/6CD in-dash changer (ML was too much $$ but i can dream). Mods so far: replaced stock fog bulbs (H3) and high beams (HB3~9005) with PIAA Xtreme Whites........wow! B) and have put on a cool looking rear spoiler. Future mods: silver/green window tinting and some chrome rims and summer tread. I saw some RAYS on CL that I really liked. On the fence mod: a K&N air filter (since they just came out with one that fits the 02-03 ES). Oh yeah, in following zeta's lead, I would like to list my air freshener. Yankee Candle....Clean Cotton. :P be talkin to ya steviej

I got New England covered. Lots of Lexi up here. Just a bit, do these from April to October. Nov. to Feb can be very unpleasant. steviej

I personally like PIAA. They are pricey but powerful. The ones I'm running are the Xtreme White (fogs) and Xtreme White Plus (highs) are ~ 4100k, 55w and 1700lu. I will be most curious to see how long they last. Sylvanias are supposed to the longevity and PIAAs have the power. We shall see but we shall see. steviej

I'm likin this site more and more with each read. I'm here and let me know if I can be of any help. :D steviej

it's nice to be here. I was wondering where you went. Actually I heard it in a post elsewhere. The owner stated it was done by a Lexus service tech. The doors don't rattle (not a mechanical metallic rattle), and the ambient sound did not rise that much. I heard another person suggesting that you go in and reinforce the attachment of the insulation with the almighty wonder (duct tape). Frankly, i've gotten used to it. I don't really want to rip off the inside panel. steviej

this seems to be a common problem with the 02 ES. It is more prevalent in the colder temps and goes away as it gets warmner in and outside of the car. From the people that have had this and done something about it: the solution is to remove the sound insulation inside the doors. I ain't ready to take the panel off yet, so I'm living with it. steviej

The flashing SRS light means the seat belt pretensioners fail. It is related to the seat belt not retracting. Get it looked at now, not after an accident. It may be as simle as a wire or a spring in the catch mechanism. steviej