steviej

if not sap then they had some toxic/acid bird crap. I vote for sap. My guess would be that it was parked under a pine tree. I say this because turpentine is made from pine sap. Where (geographical location) did you buy the car from? I wonder if the previous owners tried to paint or had the trunk and hood surface painted at one time and the clear coat was not applied correctly or even at all. skp suggestion of a clay bar is a good start. It is acutally a very cool product and works well. I printed the pics, and will show them to my friend. He is a master bodyshop painter. I will see what he thinks. steviej

OH OOOH! How did you switch from the orange to the green? Did you do a complete flush with water and continue with water until all the orange was gone. Then completely empty the water and replace with a 50:50 green:water mixture. You would have had to completely drain the orange coolant from the engine block, too. Just draining the coolant from the radiator is not enough. The orange coolant (long life) is not compatible with the regular green. If the orange was not COMPLETELY drained, there may have been residual left in the system. The residual orange mixes with the new green coolant and forms a precipatate (sludge) that will clog the small passage ways in the radiator. Clogged passage ways will result in poor coolant circulation and poor heat transfer (in both directions). Thus giving you the exact situation you describe: non-stable and inconsistent temperature readings. steviej

I believe in the 93 ES the fan is run off of the power steering pump. That is why the pump is brought into question. The 93 also only has one fan. Two fans were brought into play until later and then they were both electric. Before you go spending alot of money, first visually check the radiator and A/C condensor. Alot of times the fins get bent and/or lots of debris and dirt get in between the two. If is very easily cleaned out. Dirt and debris build up here will reduce the amount of air flow that is supposed to pass through. Redection in air flow with screw up you cooling system too. skp has a very good point that is often overlooked. If the coolant temperature sensor is starting to fail, not reading the right temp and sending the wrong signal, all readings are off. This is easily checked with the proper scan tool. It is also easily replaced. good luck.

The price form tire rack, keep in mind that if it is just for the tires you still have to have the old ones taken off, new valve stems put in, then the new ones have to be balanced. The tire place will charge you to dispose of your old ones (not much though). Figure in another $50-$100. Look into the protection plan for all four tires. This can be purchased from any dealer that sells the brand you buy. You just need to show the date of purchase and the serial numbers on each tire to be covered. Watch your local papers. Sometimes Michelin and Goodyear dealers run a sale, buy 3 get one free. Sears and NTB are competative and will match most advertised pricing. Shop around. I have Bridgestone RE92s (215/60-16). They are ok, quiet, adequate in rain and snow. They are not OEM on the 03 ES300. They went to Michelin and TOYO. I don't know if that is a sign or did Michelin come through with a better bulk deal this model year. I very much liked the Goodyear Aquatred and most likely will go with them next. (within the next 10k). good luck. take it easy on the gas pedal. I don't know about CA but in MA you get caught doing 110 mph, your tire money just bought a $500 ticket. steviej

would the real slim stevie please stand up....please stand up. Sorry, couldn't resist. sj

Thanks Zeta. I actually went by my Lexus dealer after work today and found the same thing you did. I really appreciate the help, though. I am also taken back that this is all that holds the wheel well lining to the bumper. Not much to mount spash guards here, so there goes that idea, too. steviej

look under the passenger's seat. steviej

don't just erase/clear the check engine light. Get the codes read. Autozone will do it for free. A lexus dealer may charge you a diagnostic fee of around $80. You may have to have it read when the engine is cold and the code first appears. This may involve leaving the car at the dealer overnight so he gets the trouble code upon cold start up. Or start it up, get the code, don't clear it, drive over, read it. It is that simple. Did you mechanic friend hook up a scan tool to read the code? If he didn't then how does he know "nothing is wrong with it after inspecting it"? Bottom line, the check engine light is coming on due to a trouble code. Identify the code and you will find out what the car is telling you. It may be as simple as the gas cap needs replacing or an O2 sensor is bad (my guess because it is cold activated but not hot). It may be and intake air temperature sensor, it may be a cold start up sensor, etc. You won't know until the code(s) stored in memory or the code tripping the light is identified. That is why the light is there. good luck and post your findings. steviej

Dave there are several members here who have "opened" them up. There is a way to unseal them using an oven at 200 degrees and then reseal them with a proper sealent. Hopefully someone that has done this will pipe in. When in doubt, buy new ones.....I love to shop. steviej

run the car through www.vehix.com or www.kbb.com to find numbers for your zip code. run the VIN through www.carfax.com to see if there were any reported accidents. If it is a Lexus CPO, see if they will print up a maint. report on the VIN. Timing belt is a 90k service and is pricey. You may get it cheaper from a Lexus certified Toyota service shop. Assuming the maint records are unavailable from Lexus or previous owner then definately look into total fluid flushes so you are starting out on the same foot with oil, coolant, tranny and differential. However, the 90k service is just around the corner and that will all be done then. Cheap items to consider would be oil and filter, spark plugs, air filter, PCV valve, fuel injection cleaning and a new air conditioner filter for the cabin. All of these are DIY if you are mechanically inclined and could save you money from the 90k. Welcome to Lexus Owners Club. It's a wicked cool place. good luck. steviej

moisture is one thing and can be dried. You say it is flaking. You could open up the headlight, scrape it out and reapply some mirror paint. Might be a fun project, but not an overnighter. If it is flaking really bad, where as the light emitted is diminished, then just replace it. start with ebay, then try salvage yards. Last resort, win the lottery then go to the Lexus parts counter and buy new. good luck, steviej

02-03 owners help me please. I just got my car back from my detailer and he said the rear bumper where it meets the wheel well was "floppy" We looked at it and it doesn't seem to have any anchor around the bottom. The bumper has a hole that lines up with the wheel well lining but no anchor or push pin is in the hole. I called the body shop that had removed the bumper to paint it to see it they had forgotten two connectors or anchors. I brought it by and he just put in a nylon bolt and nut on each side. That works, but I am curious to what is really there if anything is at all. Sat, I shall shoot by the dealership to see an 03 up close to check. But its 45 minutes away and one of you may save me a trip. Sorry for the description, but no dig cam available tonight. Thanks for the help. Steviej.

it may be my monitor or the way the picture downloaded, but the pic of your whole car looks like there is a huge pushed in area around your left corner. I don't remeber seeing this on CL. everything ok? steviej

the original post was simply a statment about an increase in gas mileage. That's all. Absolutely nothing was said about a search for an increase in performance. That was brought in to the picture by other postings. I like, you sniper5, bought the ES for quality and comfort, not speed. Given the world's situation and the rising costs of gas, it doesn't hurt to look for a little more change in the pocket and less money shelled out to the oil mongers. In the long run about ruining the engine....I can't speak to that. The longest I have had a K&N was 60k miles in an SSEi before I traded it in for the ES. I can say that I did not see any effects that I would notice. No oil leaks, no air leaks, no drop in performance, no decrease in gas mileage. However, if someone has a long term side by side comparison of the two filters (K&N and stock) in the same engine (doesn't have to be the 1MZ-FE), I would love to see the results. For now, I have to trust the data from K&N and my experience. thanks for the input, though. steviej

I was thinking the same thing. It is such a wonderful name. I think it means "great one" I'm not much but I'm all I think about. It's getting late and I DON'T have to work tomorrow. steviej

I have said this before, and I say it again. When anytime anything electrical starts not working, always check your fuses. I don't recall mention of whether or not you did. I say this only cause the tranny going funny and losing the seats may be related in that a common fuse may have blown. In my ES ('02), the power seats and memory are tied into fuses #62, 41, 36, 33, 27. As I listed them, the fuses get more involved with other systems too, so if the fuse where out, I would expect more than just the memory position of the seats to be effected. The last thought, is the power switch is down to the left of the seat base, right? Maybe some coffee or coke spilled and dried in the switch, thus causing the switch to stick and never make a connection. Resulting in no beep, no stored memory, no button function. Try a healthy spray of WD40 to dissolve what is gunking up the works, then lots of compressed air to help the WD40 evaporate. When all else fails, maybe the switch has to be replaced. good luck. steviej

consider hands shook. ;) You just caught me off guard. By the way, a recharger kit is $8.00 on line, $10 at Autozone and it will last for 2 to 3 cleanings and recharges. K&N recommends cleaning and recharging every 50K miles. steviej

Find out how much a Lexus part would be from a Toyota parts counter in a service center that is Lexus certified. That may be cheaper than the Lexus parts guy. I just found out the Toyota dealership in the big AutoMall 25 minutes from my house is Lexus certified. steviej

If you didn't hear the beep, then maybe you didn't do it right. You have to have the key in the on postion and the shift in (P). Set the seat and mirrors(yes it does move the mirrors) to where you want. Press the SET button and the #1 or #2 button simultaneously. I usually forget the simultaneaously part. You should hear a beep. Now move the seat way off from where you are. Press the memory button you just programmed. See if the seat and mirrors move back. (It may be the audible beep maker thingie is broken) The absolute musts are the key must be at ON and the car must be in PARK. good luck, steviej

skp, I totally DON'T agree with you on this. If your were publishing an article in a mechanics trade magazine and I were the publisher, I would have to ask for your data to back up your statement of "the K&N is crap". Is your conclusion drawn solely from your personal experience? In support of a K&N filter. Previous experience: The only reason I consisdered the K&N was because of a similar past experience. I had a very small increase in gas milage with an SSEi, but an increase nonetheless. It couldn't hurt. Monetary savings: 1. For the price and mileage warranty, I never have to buy a filter AGAIN for the life of this car. That would be a savings about $150 in filters alone if I changed every 30k with Denso from the Lexus parts counter (calculated for 180k miles). A Denso filter is $28.41/ea at my dealership. 2. At an average of $1.85/gallon, that comes out to a savings of $4.00 per tank full that I will save from the increase of 21 to 24 mpg. Not much when paying at the pump each time, but this comes out to close to $300/year. Now multiply that by the expected life of the filter/car (let's say 10 years for easy math) and you get $3000. Financial findings: ($150 parts savings + $3000 gas savings) = $3150 return on a ($35 filter + $8 cleaner/oil + $7 shipping) = $50 investment Previous filter being dirty and replaced with new filter: I think not, The Denso filter was changed on the 15k service at my request. So that means the filter that was changed out only had 5k miles on it. I would have changed to the K&N at that time, except the #33-2260 filter was not available until the middle of March 2003. Actual data: The total mileage driven on each tankful divided by the amount of gas pumped = 24.1 to 24.3 mpg on each tankful since the filter change. The total mileage driven on each tankful divided by the amount of gas pumped = 19.9 to 21.8 mpg on various tankfuls from 9/7/02 and 10,500 mi to 3/2003 and 20,000 miles. Keep in mind, new Denso filter midway at 15k AND no change there. There was no change in the way I drive or the conditions or locations that the car was driven in either. Performance No change in acceleration times that I can tell, but then again, I never measured them. It ain't a Viper or a Vette. It's a Lexus ES, its built for comfort and quality, not speed. Sound No change....nor did I expect there to be any, it was only a filter element change Stickers Wasn't displayed/attached to the car, don't believe in them. I know what I'm packing. Bottom line, Try it on your next filter change, if you don't see an increase in mileage then go back to the Denso filter. In reality, the Denso is only $8.00 less than the K&N. skp, you didn't shoot me down.....your shot missed. My data and experience speak in favor of a K&N filter if one so chooses. have a good evening all. steviej

I have waited for a few weeks to post this to make sure it wasn't a fluke. Recently, I replaced the stock Denso air filter with a K&N drop in air filter. (takes about 5 minutes to do) I was getting about 21 mpg around town, minimal highways, stop and go, you know the drill. I change only the air filter and continue to drive the same. Over the four fill ups of gas (over 14 gallons each in the cousre of three weeks) since the filter change the new average has gone up to 24 mpg. I am impressed. For those interested, the K&N filter number is 33-2260 and cost $35 on line. (Pre-'02 ES have a different filter number.) The stores around here haven't stocked it yet. Shipping was another $7.00. steviej

platinums run around $3.95 - $4.95 ea around Boston. regulars around $1.95 ea. Don't get fooled by gimicks either. You don't need the splitfire tips, the dual dips or even the Bosch +4 tips. The simple tride and true single post and tip gapped correctly (of coarse) will be just fine. steviej

If the TSB states fixable under warranty then definately push the issue. Push it with Lexus.com, the area rep and several service shops. If push comes to shove, contact you local news station, they must have a consumer advocate. Lexus won't want bad publicity on the 6pm news. If you are going to shell out $1100 for the 60k (that's what a 90k costs in Boston, 60k is around $700) then reason with the service manager and see if he will throw it in for free, again push the TSB. If you don't use the parking brake, take it to Midas to have the parking brake system cleaned.....couldn't hurt. skp, I agree 100% with your braking style. My dad used to teach driver education and he drilled this into me as well as always use the parking brake (even when not on a hill). Drum in disc.....look at the hub of the rear wheels. They are bigger than normal hubs. The e-brake is a drum style shoe inside this bulbous hub. Go find a honda or some other hub that uses an different system, the hub is smaller. steviej

ok, I was just logging out and another thought came to me. The ES uses a drum-in-disc parking brake system. A friend recently had alot of brake noise due to a very dirty parking brake. It sounded like grinding. The parking brake mechanism is on the rear wheels. Is the grinding noise coming from front or back? If it is the back, then have it checked out. Midas, Speedy, Meineke all can do this. If you don't use the parking brake every time you park, they tend to get rusty and dusty. The don't self calibrate or adjust and then get sticky. Have someone stand outside the car to listen as you drive in a circle around them and apply the brakes. post you findings. steviej

SW03ES said it best. If you have put top of the line ceramic pads on at it still makes a gringing noise, then the problem most likely lies in the rotor. It may be glazed, warped, or scored. Have them turned or replaced altogether. The 02 ES had a rotor problem and was usually found by the first 5k miles and the dealer fixed for free. At 60k, it would be tough to get the dealer to do any "warranty" work on brake pads or rotors. As for "not being able to replicate the noise", are you riding with them on the test drive to find/hear the noise. If you can hear it, then point it out to them. Be there when they "can't replicate the noise". Lastly, a small gringing noise upon initial application of the brakes for the first time each day or after a long sit is somewhat normal. It is the removal of very light surface oxidation. This will go away upon the second or third application of the brakes. I get this alot being in a coastal town with lots of damp salt air. good luck steviej