RX400h

I don't change coolant (myself) anymore for two reasons: 1. Used coolant is considered hazardous waste and most auto parts stores don't accept it as they do used oil and trans fluid. 2. The bleeding procedures have become more and more complex. If the cooling system is not properly bled of air or coolant is leaking then yes, the engine could overheat. Other causes of overheating are: 1. Bag or newspaper covering front of radiator (temp rises at any speed) 2. Thermal switch fails - fan doesn't turn on. (temp rises only during slow or stop & go driving) 3. Thermostat sticks closed ( temp rises at any speed) 4. Radiator or overflow tank cap does not adequately keep the coolant system pressurized (failed cap).

Remember that hybrid vehicle power regeneration from braking slows the vehicle down considerably without pad-to-rotor contact. It's during only aggressive braking when pad wear occurs. But regarding having two different pad compounds, front to rear: I agree that it is most likely not dangerous. Still, given the wide variety of pads available and no easy way to compare them all, I still believe that OEM pads are a much safer bet to achieve braking performance, quietness, and longevity. Plus, your overall cost is relatively little when you divide it by the number of years those pads last.

...almost 100,000 miles on our RX400h and the OEM pads have plenty of material left. But yes, it is good practice to keep front and rear's the same. Be aware that there are many "mixtures" of ceramic pads out there. Some are far more abrasive to the rotors than others. I tend to stay with OEM if the originals performed well and lasted a good long time.

No auto transmission fluid is "permanent". My question is this: Was the fluid ever changed before? If not, you were very lucky to get that many miles out of it, and if the cost to replace it exceeds 50% of the value of your vehicle, your best bet is to consider your vehicle as scrap. Move on and consider this to be a lesson well learned.

Thanks for getting back to us with the resolution to this issue. It will surely come in handy.

You might want to pick up a factory service manual or at least a Haynes manual. My guess is that the thermal fan switch has failed. Typically, the switch output voltage is sent to the fan when coolant temps exceed a certain temperature. To test the switch you should know what that temperature is and be able to monitor it. A ScanGuage 2, which plugs into the OBD II port can monitor coolant temps and more that 12 other parameters. But really, you need to know more about your cooling system before proceeding. Perhaps someone on this forum has a service manual for this vehicle and can provide specifics.

Another method that seemed to fix (for the last 2 years, anyway) this issue was to turn the ignition key from the accesory position to the on position (multiple times if necessary) while pressing the eject button.

How old is your battery? Sometimes a bad or failing cell or two will cause strange electrical things to occur.

Our 2006's owner's manual states: Pump gas octane is (Research Octane number + Motor Octane Number)/2 Obviously, Research octane is a number that is higher than pump gas octane, so our RX400h does NOT require high octane. We've been running either regular (colder months) or mid-grade (warmer months) for more than 10 years and have never had any pinging, whatsoever. Ambient temperature does make a difference. Cooler = more power. Texanboy, We have almost 100,000 miles on our RX400h and have never had any issues of significance. I had to inject some powdered graphite in the ignition key hole, but that's it. Our water pump gasket needed replacement at 92,000 miles or so, but that is more maintenance than a reliability deficit. 12V batteries last 5-7 years here in southern CA. We are very glad we selected this vehicle - the most reliable we have ever had. And over the years, we have saved many thousands of dollars in fuel cost with our average fuel consumption of 25-27 MPG.

By 70-series, I included anything in the 70s aspect ratio range. For example, a 75 Monte Carlo, which was considered a luxury coupe had the following: GR70-15 with 220mm tire width. Regardless, you won't find that kind of aspect ration on any car that is under 30 years old.

Back in the 70s riding in an American car was like floating on whipped cream - silky V8 engines with 70-series balloon tires.

Since smaller diameter tires have to complete more rotations per mile, wouldn't you think that if the tire compound is the same as that of a much larger tire, the larger tire would have to outlast the smaller tire? I think the compounds are "stickier" on today's lower-profile, higher performance tires, allowing those tires to wear faster. Also, since many people equate giant, heavy vehicles with ultra-safety, it is a good thing that those giant wheels and tires open up more space for larger brake rotors. Something like the new Miata, at 2300 lbs, can easily get by with smaller and lighter wheels. Unfortunately, the consumer wouldn't stand for 14 or 15" wheels.

Are you sure you have to use premium? We can use any grade in our 2006. You lose a small amount of power but for many the gain is not worth the cost. Regarding the batteries: We find that the display shows fully charged after heading down a hill that is a couple of miles or more. During normal driving, the charge is not full. (especially when I see an X5 or Cayenne!)

A windshield cover, dash cover or full-blown car covers are your best bets to prevent this from happening in the first place. Our RX sees lots of sun but we use a windshield shade, every day. After 10 years there is not a single crack in the dash.

Have you physically checked the amp, itself? If the info you seek is not there, you may be able to contact the manufacturer or distributor.

Yes, graphite powder is the best lubricant for key ignition switches, door locks, etc.

I agree that it would be worth having it towed to either another dealership (could be Toyota) or an experienced mechanic that you or close acquaintances trust. I can believe that the belt jumped or sheared teeth. Whether that can cause damaged valves, I am unsure. Closer examination is in order.

If this is considered part of the hybrid system, warrant is at least 100,000 (more in California).

Yes, those appear to be CV joints. I have bought remanufactured CV joint (for older cars) through automotive repair shops and never had a problem with them. Make sure that there is a warranty.

Are you referring to CV joints?

I haven't seen mention of this noise in hybrids. Do any of you RX400h owners have this issue? We never have but let's see if others experienced that type of sound.

I think you should ask yourself a few questions: 1. How much room do you really need on a daily basis? Do you transport kids around? 2. How long is your daily commute to school, work, or both? 3. How much insurance can you afford? 4. How much emphasis do you place on fun and how often is the weather nice where you live? 5. According to Consumer Reports, which are the three top car companies, based upon performance and reliability? The answer to #5 is 1. Lexus 2. Mazda 3. Toyota As a general rule of thumb, the lighter the vehicle, the more fun it is to drive, regardless of power. We have an RX400h, a Mazda 3 (2014), and a Mazda MX5 (2008). Which one do you think is most fun to drive? They are all very reliable but no one should die before experiencing the amount of fun generated by an MX5. Certainly, it cannot be the only car for everyone but for those who don't need lots of storage and who don't drive on the highway for many miles, daily, it is like stepping into another world.

$8000 just doesn't make sense. Check with a Toyota dealership, perhaps. Speaking of high-end units, can you imagine what a Tesla display will cost after the warranty has expired?

Cupped tires generally indicate worn shock absorbers.

We use an FM MP3 player in our RX400h without incident but your issues really are strange. It's hard to believe your XM subscription has anything to do with the radio and its controls. Perhaps Paul's suggestion about repair is your best bet. I have XM in my Mazda 3 (2014) with tech package and I love it.