RX400h

Armorall, Meguiar's, and many others offer low-gloss protectant for dashes. These are available at any auto parts stores and Walmart, so it probably wouldn't hurt to buy a bottle and try it out.

Tom, NAPA's website does list a less expensive version of either the air or cabin (I can't remember which), but I decided to go with their premium (Gold) line. They have a non-gold oil filter for many different vehicles, but from what I understand, that one is not made by WIX. I like the K&N because it has that very handy welded-on nut. I simply use an adjustable wrench to loosen the filter. Both the K&N and WIX filters have been given accolades by lab testers, so you really can't go wrong with either. Dave

Tom, While there is no mention of "WIX", NAPA's cabin filter is considered to be within their "GOLD" line of parts. Here is the link to the fil4883 cabin filter: http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(ks2bt...p;Dk=1&Dp=3 ...and the air filter: http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(ks2bt...p;Dk=1&Dp=3 I also picked up a K&N oil filter (735-5551): http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(ks2bt...p;Dk=1&Dp=3 Dave

I'm always amazed at how much trash finds its way into the cabin filter. 15,000 miles is really pushing it when it comes to how much dirt that filter can hold!

Since I had to replace these two filters, this weekend, I decided to document what I did for those who haven't done this before and want to save some money by doing it themselves. So, take a look and tell me if anything is unclear; I'll do my best to make it better. Here's the link: http://www.conceptualpolymer.com//Documents/Lexusfilterchange.pdf Update: 3/6/2011: Optional cabin and air intake filters: Cabin (Panel) filter: Wix 24883 $14.99 Intake filter: Wix 49185 $16.77 Both available at www.amazon.com Dave

The cabin filter I saw was made by Fram. The foam looked like it was deteriorating (Small pieces could be seen inside the bag). I have not seen any others but will check with NAPA, this weekend.

I have a feeling they originated in another country. Why not give Dunlop a call at 1-800-321-2136 M-F 8:30AM - 5:00PM EST I'm sure they can give you more info.

I buy mine from the dealer, since the aftermarket ones I examined were very lacking, qualitywise. The front of your RX has a cold air intake slot built-in from the factory. That slot allows cold outside air to be ingested by the engine's intake - a definite power advantage, since colder air is more dense, which means more air molecules can be crammed into the combustion chamber. When you open your hood, you'll see where this cold air path leads - straight to the filter. It is very easy to change. I'll be changing mine, shortly and can take a picture or two. dave

I guess the pads' wear rate is directly related to the driving environment, since someone who travels more often in the city will most likely wear out their pads faster (fewer miles) than would a highway traveler.

...so do the Corvette guys - Battery Tender Plus is one of the most popular.

I believe that it IS the same. I suggest you replace it and the intake filter, yourself. Dave

...looks like I won't be bleeding the brakes by myself any time soon! Thanks foe posting that info, Lemon.

Thanks for the excellent writeup. As a general rule-of-thumb, the PCV valve should be changed when the spark plugs need to be changed. I changed the Corvette's prematurely, primarily because it was so easy to do. How easy was the brake work? Did you measure the rotor thickness? Is the minimum thickness stamped on it? Were there any issues with regenerative components when removing the calipers? ...sorry for all the questions, but I'm sometimes a DIY person (if I don't have to spend the whole weekend on a particular project).

Thanks!

I'm always looking for something to remove scuff marks in my Corvette's light oak interior. I guess I can always try that eraser in an inconspicuous area, first........ Thanks for the advice for the 400h, though.

Thanks for starting this valuable thread. I have pinned it, so let's keep those tidbits coming! Dave

I had ours done about 2 months ago - no complaints from me!

....same here - whirrs and clicks that are perfectly normal. Just try not to say anything in a derogatory manner when you are near the vehicle. It WILL get you back the next time you give it a voice command! :D

I know the first one would work, but the second one may not clear the front side of the caliper. Still, I have to admit that I would've never thought those tools were available. The good news is that my last brake job lasted 9+ years. Somehow, I doubt I'll have that 1989 Mazda that long. Maybe some day I'll replace it with an MX-5 (Miata)! Thanks, Tom; I probably should've asked when I was there (at the auto parts store) to buy the pads. Fantastic news! I'll bet few RX350 owners can't wait that long before replacing their brake pads!

Wow! That's good news. I just spent the most of my Saturday afternoon changing front and rear pads on my Mazda (the rear caliper pistons must be rotated into the cylinder bore using needlenose pliers - a time-consuming process). Having the factory service manual helps, but most of the procedure is common sense stuff. The next time I rotate the RX400h's tires, I'll take a better look at its calipers to see if this is something I'll tackle, myself. The last thing I'd want to see is popping spring clips or other hard-to-reassemble components.

How are your front pads holding up? Our 43,000 mile 06 RX400h's pads are still okay, although I haven't taken a good look at them in many months. My 2700-lb Mazda's front pads lasted 36,000 miles, so I am very happy that a vehicle that weighs in at 4700 lbs can be still using the OEM pads after 43,000 miles. Dave

There are a couple of forum members who have or have had 255s on their RX400hs. Most likely, they will chime in as there are no shortages of opions about tires in this forum. I have the OEM-size Bridgestone Alenzas and I am very happy with them - great wear and handling, wet or dry.

Oh sure! It'll getcha home, for CERTAIN . . . IF: Your ICE is warmed up to S4 (157 degrees f.) Your traction pack is on the top blue line, or in the green, and, You're less than a half mile from home, and, Your drive is on level ground. Now, do you REALLY feel any better? Run the traction pack down to where you get a (red triangle of death) full on shut down, and your recharge will NOT be covered by your warranty. And there's always that embarrasing phone call where in essence you have to call for assistance, in essence admitting to being a couple sandwitches short of a picnik. ....not having a good day, are we? :D

I guarantee that in 100-degree heat, using regular gas will result in a big chunk of power drop, but if you modify your driving habits to compensate, you may not notice a decrease in mileage. (At least that's my assumption.)

Yes and it should last a long time, so overall cost is minimal.