mikee72

scientifically a stock Supra twin turbo can reach 200mph. if you need to see proof i will gladly find it and post it up. A stock TT Supra absolutely *will not* go 200 MPH "scientifically" or otherwise. I'd love to see this alleged "proof," since there isn't any. He's my proof: The Car And Driver tested the Supra Turbo in August 1997, and got 160 MPH out of it. Maybe your "Fast And Furious" throttle foot can get an extra 40 MPH out of it that the rest of the world wasn't aware of?

Theodore, you rock! It's nice when people take the time to document the process and help stave off ten redundant questions about the same damn thing everyday. P.S. Do you have "P6800" system?

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm 'Nuff said.

Correct. As are people who are too lazy to search, and too dumb to know the difference between "your" and "you're." Next!

Huh, and to think all of this time he was actually looking at buying a "moron." By his previous posts, I would have guessed that he was looking to be spoon-fed generic tire info that he could have found with a simple search. (With the exception of "ride quality" questions) (shrug)

I'm confused. You're clueless about tires, and are obviously too lazy to spend 30 seconds on Google, let alone use the Tire FAQ's on this very website, http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=4538& http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=34& but you somehow feel as if you're qualified to determine that the tires that you saw today were overpriced, since you want to know where you can find them at a "good" price. What am I missing here? Edit: Sadistic beat me to it.

Do a search in the main audio section for "PIONEERSUBY" (Yes, he only types in CAPS) as he is a repair tech who works on Lexus factory audio stuff. I know he fixes disk changers, but I think he might also fix amps. Don't mention anything about aftermarket equipment though, or he'll get upset.

Tire construction makes a huge difference. For example, my crappy Khumo 712's in 235/45/17 actually ride smoother than my previous 225/50/16 AVS Intermediates, despite the fact that the 17" wheels are ~5 lbs. heavier. This is on my Talon, not my SC, BTW. Any "Touring" tire will have softer sidewalls than a pure performance tire, with the tradeoff of less cornering ability. I have some H-rated 16" GT+4's on my SC, and it's like driving a waterbed. I could run over a herd of cattle and never feel it. Let us know what tires you have, and we'll help make some suggestions. Don't forget to mention any suspension mods.

Well, I don't buy anything without research first, and info on these wheels is hard to some by. www.axiswheels.com doesn't show them, so I assume they're no longer made. Then there's the offset issue in the front. 19" are simply too big for me from the standpoint of weight. A wheel that big is going to slow the car's acceleration too much. I also want more tire for fear of potholes where I live. 18" is pretty much my limit, unless they're really light, and most knock-off's like these are pretty heavy. Do you know if these were ever made in 17-18"?

Thanks, Sport, you've put so much effort into this thread that I felt like it's my duty to do the same for the sake of all SC owners. If you want to PM me the t/s for the RF you're using, I'll add it to my chart. Believe it or not, the eD is only ~$180. For the anticipated low-end advantage over the others in IB situations, I think it's money well spent. I'm not a believer in maga-watt amps, since double the power only gets you an extra 3dB, so I'll be saving money there. With the stock setup, I only turn the Bass up to 1/2-3/4 anyway. These cars are so quiet, I have little reason to go above say, 100dB anyway. I just want accurate, full-range sound. I'll probably be upgrading to A/D/S 6 1/2's about the same time as I do the sub. That will determine whether or not I need more power, and/or more control over crossover points/slopes.

Damn. It looks there are no longer made. I can only find them in 19" at one site, and there's no way I want to live with 19's. Any suggestions on wheels that look similar, besides the ultra-expensive Hartge Classic's? Those are the wheels that the SC should have come with from the factory, IMHO. I can't find any other design that looks "classy" and not "Honda" or "JDM." :(

Decided to put this here also, because inevitably, people won't Search and will not find the thread I posted it in. Most will agree that a high Qts, Low Fs, and high Xmax are the most important qualifications for a good IB/Freeair sub. This list is hopefully accurate, but certainly not complete. Feel free to add drivers that you find that stack up well with those listed. Maybe the mods can edit my post with new info so we can keep it tidy and all in one place. ------------------------------------------------- Soundstream Exact 10 FREQ. RESPONSE (Hz) : 25 - 1.7k Fs (Hz) : 30 Qes: 0.4 Qms: 12.87 Qts: 0.332 Vas (Ft3) : 1.117 Xmax (INCHES) 0.51 SPL (dB) : 89.6 HOLE SIZE (INCHES) : 925 WOOFER DEPTH (INCHES) : 5.3 RECOMMENDED ENCLOSURE (Ft3) : 0.5/0.75 RECOMMENDED ENCLOSURE TYPE : Sealed/Vented Free Air ------------------------------------------------- Elemental Design e1OO.44 / 14 T / S Parameters Qts : 0.59 Qes : 0.76 Qms : 2.69 Vas : 20.5 L Sd : 0.0312 m^2 XMag : 18.3 mm XSus : 21.1 mm XMax : 18.3 mm MMd : 128 g Re : 2.39 ohm Fs : 32.3 Hz Bl : 11.36 Mounting Depth : 5.5" (139 mm) --------------------------------------------- JL Audio 10IB4 Fs 37.5 Hz Qts .769 XMax .3" Mounting Depth 5.69" 8 ohms Vas 2.93 cu ft ------------------------------------------ Kicker Freeair F10c Fs 32.4 Qts .407 XMax 7.7mm Monting Depth ? 4 ohms Vas 2.88 cu ft ----------------------------------------- Image Dynamics ID10 4 Fs 30 Hz Qts .42 Xmax 10mm Vas 2.89 4 ohms Mounting Depth 4.625" ------------------------------------------ Pioneer TSW-254? -------------------------------------------- Assuming price or mounting isn't an issue, the driver that looks like it fits my needs is the Elemental Design e1OO.44 / 14 so far. Maybe someone who has info about the Pioneer Freeair can add the t/s info.

I must have read a bazillion threads on the subject of SC sub replacement. Lots of information, not much consensus, except that in every case, the aftermarket sub sounded "better" than the stocker it replaced. Since nobody has tried all of the possibilities, I thought that the only way to come to some conclusion in selecting the "best" 10" stock replacement sub would be to compare the theil/small parameters of some of the most popular models mentioned in various subwoofer threads in this forum and from the 'net. It goes without saying that your wiring configuration/amp power will need to work with these in order to make a valid comparison. Most will agree that a high Qts, Low Fs, and high Xmax are the most important qualifications for a good IB/Freeair sub. This list is hopefully accurate, but certainly not complete. Feel free to add drivers that you find that stack up well with those listed. Maybe the mods can edit my post with new info so we can keep it tidy and all in one place. ------------------------------------------------- Soundstream Exact 10 FREQ. RESPONSE (Hz) : 25 - 1.7k Fs (Hz) : 30 Qes: 0.4 Qms: 12.87 Qts: 0.332 Vas (Ft3) : 1.117 Xmax (INCHES) 0.51 SPL (dB) : 89.6 HOLE SIZE (INCHES) : 925 WOOFER DEPTH (INCHES) : 5.3 RECOMMENDED ENCLOSURE (Ft3) : 0.5/0.75 RECOMMENDED ENCLOSURE TYPE : Sealed/Vented Free Air ------------------------------------------------- Elemental Design e1OO.44 / 14 T / S Parameters Qts : 0.59 Qes : 0.76 Qms : 2.69 Vas : 20.5 L Sd : 0.0312 m^2 XMag : 18.3 mm XSus : 21.1 mm XMax : 18.3 mm MMd : 128 g Re : 2.39 ohm Fs : 32.3 Hz Bl : 11.36 Mounting Depth : 5.5" (139 mm) --------------------------------------------- JL Audio 10IB4 Fs 37.5 Hz Qts .769 XMax .3" Mounting Depth 5.69" 8 ohms Vas 2.93 cu ft ------------------------------------------ Kicker Freeair F10c Fs 32.4 Qts .407 XMax 7.7mm Monting Depth ? 4 ohms Vas 2.88 cu ft ----------------------------------------- Image Dynamics ID10 4 Fs 30 Hz Qts .42 Xmax 10mm Vas 2.89 4 ohms Mounting Depth 4.625" ------------------------------------------ Pioneer TSW-254? -------------------------------------------- Assuming price or mounting isn't an issue, the driver that looks like it fits my needs is the Elemental Design e1OO.44 / 14 so far. Maybe someone who has info about the Pioneer Freeair can add the t/s info.

Bstein, what wheels do you have on your car in your avatar pic? On the speaker subject, I wonder of some 5 1/4 or 6 1/2's would sound better in some sort of enclosure, separate from the pressure that the sub will be putting on them.

Well, I think most of us would rather Plug n' Play using a harness, if we had the choice. The kicker, is that since I posted that, I have leaned with reasonable certainty, that filtering is done at the amp level, meaning that I replace the entire Nak with a large 5-channel, I'd be able to let my future 6 1/2" in the doors play down to where I like them. I had previously thought that the stock HU sends two sets of signals (hi/low pass) to the amp, meaning that replacing the Nak amp wouldn't allow me to lower the cutoff on the mids, so there would be no point in messing with the mid part of the system.

Clear laquer over the top of the sticker?

This *might* be what some of us are looking for: http://www.installer.com/wires/index.html I'll email them to see exactly which system this works with, and what functionality is lost from the stock amp.

What's a "Dave H" kit?

Start searching the SC forum here and the Audio section at Club Lexus. 90% of your questions will be answered.

By all means, post those pics! Let's make this thread the definitive SC sub thread!

Hmm... my stock sub in my nak system is 1 ohm. Printed on the back of the magnet plain as day. Are you sure about yours being 5 ohms? My car is bone stock.

So you've seen these stickers stand up to wheel cleaner and repeated hard stops from high speed?

Free beer for Sport! I quoted that bit from Club Lexus audio forum. Most of the folks over there disgourge using the hi-level inputs. You said that you tried that, and that you got lots of whine/noise from it. Does the RF amp list a range of how "hot" of a signal it can withstand?

Has anyone tried these? It sure seems like any sticker would burn off of a caliper pretty quick, and if not, would get eaten away by wheel cleaner the first time you used it. Are these things made with some "Super-Duper-Will-Not-Come-Off-No Matter-What" -type stickers, or is this simply a waste of money? On the other hand, if we could buy the "cutout" (the discarded part) of the sticker, we could stick that to the caliper and use it as a stencil for painting the word "Lexus" on our calipers in whatever color we chose. That sure seems like a better idea.

After a closer inspection, I've narrowed the movement down to the mechanism that raises and lowers the front edge of the seat. There looks to be a rack and pinion system driven by an electric motor that might have some worn components in it. What we need is a schematic of the seat bottom, and we should be able to determine the likely worn parts.