ESpecial

What have you done that pertains specifically to the transmission, since that seems to be your problem? I would check the trans fluid level and the color. Should be red, not brown. Drain that fluid, refill with Toy specific atf and see what happens. If that doesn't do anything, probably time for a transmission rebuild. That's $$$.

I'd go to a different garage. They're just throwing parts at the car without knowing what they're doing. Check your gas cap to make sure it's on tight until it clicks about 3 times. You may need another gas cap (corresponds to p0446). It's true that you may have a slipped timing belt. Has it ever been replaced? It should have been for the year/mileage you have. Do that asap if hasn't been done. As a precaution, you may want to install a new timing belt tensioner.

Maybe -20 C is extremely cold, but surely not <10C. My car would never get washed if 10C was the cutoff point. Water doesn't even freeze at that temp. Never had a problem with brakes freezing. You use them almost immediately after a wash when you drive off and the heat dries them out.

Thanks guys! I have been using Unlead 91 and engine recently flushed w/Seafoam. Still no helps. The engine is very clean. 6 months ago I replaced the valve cover gaskets and no gelling. Some suggested go back to 87 and see if too much octane is the problem. Any other suggestions??? Thanks Is the 91 octane all from the same station? I'd try another gas station with premium as well, since sometimes there's a bad batch of gas.

When you bought the lug nuts, there was a registration card that was recommended to send back to McGard which had your info on it. If you sent it, they'll have the information. If you didn't send it, you might have to go to a garage or tire shop to have them remove your lug nuts with their master keys and you'd have to buy another set, or go back to stock nuts.

Well my driver's side door confirms the 1B2, but that's the top color. I'm not sure what cladding is, but I'm assuming that's it, since its a two toned combo. I just want to double check. Cladding is the lower part.

Most likely, your MAF sensor is dirty or need replacing. First step would be to clean the MAF with a dedicated MAF cleaner such as CRC or an electronics cleaner. Spray on the sensor wire, but do not touch it. It's screwed into the air intake with 2 screws and connected to a wire harness that you unplug. Quite possibly it became contaminated when the tech had the intake off.

A pair of vise-grips won't round off the nut if they're locked on there really tight.

thanx kluthage thats a nice thing to do

In my area BP doesn't use ethanol and it says so on the pumps. There are areas of the country in which BP does use it, but not here. Check the pump itself if it's sold in your area.

http://www.lexuspartsonline.com http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...m?siteid=214074 http://www.trademotion.com/splash/index.cfm?siteid=214645 http://www.toyotapartscenter.net/partlocat...m?siteid=214591 http://www.mylexparts.com/partlocator/inde...m?siteid=214992 http://www.sewellpartsonline.com/select.asp?cat=SERV

OEM coolant part # is 00272-SLLC2 for the super long life 50/50 premix. Do an online search for it. Can get it here: http://www.toyotapartscenter.net/partlocat...m?siteid=214591.

My ES300 looked exactly the same when I bought it used last year. It was stored long enough in one place that a squirrel or chipmunk could make it his home. Only one way to get in and it's through the air intake under the wheel well.

17" GS350 Rims on ES300. Plug & Play.

This is good info. I'm going to measure the sway bars front and rear with a digital caliper and get the bushings for both.

Why would you use a wool are an orange? To me, it should be the other way around. Nice rish though! :) Not many people do that. I used the orange pad with Meg #3 to remove minor scratches, since the orange is mildly aggressive and using the wool with the cutting polish seems too agressive to me. I used wool with no polish to buff out the swirl marks left from the orange and the residue. I've done this before and it worked pretty well, but I'm open to suggestions. I only do this procedure once a year and only on the problem areas. I use Klasse and/or a carnauba the other times.

Used Blue Coral car wash, Meguiars #3 machine polish with a Sonus orange pad on an orbital, wool bonnet on orbital after that, rinsed residue and oversplash with 80% water 20% iso alcohol on a microfiber, hosed that off with water, dried, then used Klasse. No Touch spray foam on the tires.

Here's a pic of the stickers on my painted calipers. Had them for about 2 weeks now.

My original timing belt said made for Toyota by Mitsuboshi.

I just replaced my timing belt and the only way I could get it off was the bump starter method. Impact gun couldn't do it. This has been my experience in the past as well on other cars.

As to the ES350 vs. the German cars. I would say that the German cars handling around corners is much better than any other car including the Lexus. Now before all of us Lexus owners get upset, I can say that the interior quiet and luxury appointments (to me) are much better in the Lexus. I don't need to go around a corner at 75mph! But if I have to, a little body roll in my Lexus doesn't bother me too much. Plus, the German cars are all rated lower in reliability than Lexus and cost much more (nothing under $50K). I agree...going through corners at a high speed may be useful on the track or switching lanes on the autobahn, but not in real life U.S. driving. We have bumps, rough asphalt, bridge grates, RR crossings, etc. I'll take a Lexus any day.

40 and just bought a 2000 ES300 off ebay with 117k. Just joined the club. Glad to be here!