jimbostar

Similar happened to me, but with more mileage on vehicle (1992 SC400 - 125k), but time itself could be a factor - WATER PUMP, which is why temp gauge went high, which then smokes the timing belt after the pump seizes (which is why it won't start). GOOD LUCK!!! They tried to get me for $1650, got them down to $1400. PS: Starting in '95/'96 the SC400 has an interference fit motor, which means the engine will bend the valves when the timing belt goes (which is why I bought an older one after this happened in my 325is). Not trying to freak you out, but if this indeed is the case the job will cost $3,500+ :(

Hey, anybody know if there are engine oil ports/gaskets associated with the intake manifold? I had the starter replaced (requires manifold R&R) and now my car has a lot of oil in the exhaust when I start it after sitting for a bit. 1992 SC400 150K - THANKS!!!

Thanks jzz30, think I'll try the synth this time.

CONGRATS!!! Enjoy the car, I luv mine...post a pic when u get a chance. As far as a good mechanic by u, I don't know, but I do some of my repairs myself, I give the dealer some work, and the rest I give to a good local shop and it's worked out pretty good. The idea is by using this method my costs on average are lower than just going to a dealer or even a local garage all the time. The routine maintenance I usually do like tune ups, oil changes, pads/rotors, I give the dealer the work that would most require a specialist with the car and someone who has seen my type of car a lot, I give the local mechanic more straight forward work, but stuff that I really can't do where I live, live struts, nothing really complicated to worry about. I usually get all my parts online or at the dealer ahead of time. I've done a good amount of work on my car this way and it's worked out well for me. GOOD LUCK!!!

I have the same noise and will be doing struts (all around) in a few days, I'll let you know how it turns out.

I tried 2-part plastic weld and it didn't work, 2-part all purpose epoxy might have worked better, what worked for me was actually welding the plastic with a soldering iron and some filler plastic (don't try this at home :), the cracks sometimes go further than you can see them, one of mine went all the way down to the thread for the sensor, finally I got a new one and everything is great. Any type of soft plastic filler will work, just test it against a clean soldering gun (electric type) after the gun heats up to make sure it'll melt nice when using it as filler, I have digital soldering gun for electronics and I found that 550 degrees +/- 25 degrees worked best. The tank/cap holds about 13 lbs (American measurement) or 8.8 kpa (rest of the world measurement). GOOD LUCK!!!

Hey, got a '92 SC400 and gonna change the rear fluid, does anybody have any recommendations? Has anyone tried synthetic?

Thanks, I'll check them out.

It looks like the top of my radiator where the hoses go into is cracked and leaking, it looks like that part of the radiator is plastic. Two questions, does this happen much to this car, and can anyone recommend a place to buy an all metal replacement radiator? Thanks!

GOOD NEWS... found the problem with the car, BAD NEWS... the dealer wants $1,700 to fix it. It ends up that the water pump siezed and fried the timing belt... so, with all the related parts (idlers, antifreeze, etc.) they wanted $1,700 to fix, being a mechanic in the past I told them that was too much and I negotiated them down to $1,200. I was going to do the belt and pump anyway before the winter, so really the only extra cost was the tow to the dealer. I was hoping to do front struts soon, but now it'll have to wait... oh well...

SKF, thanks for the suggestion, I'll try that today and let you know what happens.

Car: 1992 SC400 128k miles. Problem: I was drving down the hiway and coolant overflowed from a loose radiator cap and sprayed over the engine and then the engine stalled a few minutes later and now it won't start - it does turn-over though. Solution: ??? Any help would be appreciated - thanks.

You might want to look at your tranny mount too, if your motor mounts were really shot, the tranny mount usually goes too. I too just did this work to my SC and it made a huge difference (did the hanger bearing also), but like you, I have the suspension to do next.

Yeah, not for me either, but got to hand it to the guy that built the thing - the work looks quality to me.

Try adjusting the dashboard dimmer control (it's usually a knob).

Yeah, that does sound about right. It's a tricky job if you've never done it before - you need to align some timing marks and not sure for your motor, but sometines you have to set the tension properly too. This only has to get done every 100k miles or so, if you think of it that way it's not so bad $$$.

I know that my SC has speed sensing boost, the wheel gets 'heavier' the faster I go, but I'm not sure if that's related to your problem.

I would think the Toyota shop would be fine for an alignment, I prefer them over a more local shop because of their training and maybe better equipment. As I understand it, Radial tires should only be same side rotated (front-to-back, back-to-front), so I would think about swapping those front tires back around. Also, definitely check the tire rotation direction as LexusFreak suggests, but be sure to check your tire presure too, this might be why the pull is now to the left after exchanging the front tires and why it was to the right in the first place.

Hey, I'm looking for a power mirror switch for a '92 SC400 (grey interior) - does anyone know where to get this other than the dealer? Thanks - Jim

Yeah, I saw this too - pretty cool. It probably works on thumbprint recognition technology, we use hand scanners at work for access to different areas.

I just replaced the low beam lamps on my '92 SC400 with Sylvania SilverStar Hologens (see link below), the results were a pretty good improvement - it's basically the best non-HID lamp available right now. You can do an Internet search on Google ( http://www.google.com/ ) for more info. about auto lighting in general or do a search in this forum. http://www.sylvania.com/auto/

VB, I know what you mean, I get into my sisters Jetta every once in a while and the difference just smacks you in the face - you take for granted how impresive the Lexus is when you're always in it.

My feelings are if the car checks out and you're not concerned about having a salvage title when you go to sell it (it will be much harder to sell to someone with a salvage title), then it's not that big of a deal, but I definitely would not pay top dollar for it!

First, do you have TRAC control? It came with the heated seats package on the earlier years. If you do, then there is a button for it and an indicator on the instrument panel telling you it's off. For burn outs, the best setup is: 1. Turn off overdrive. 2. Set ETC to power. 3. Turn off TRAC control. See your owners manual for button and indicator locations.

:o Hey, truth be told...