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I will print this and use to check things out. Thanks. I was just out and the car started right up. I called the tow/battery service and they said even tho the batt measured at 60% yesterday, that that's enough to start the car. If I get a good diagnosis on the electrical, then with a new batt I should be good to go for a time. So test you describe is different from what AAA did last week? He hooked up jumper cables, started it, revved the engine several times, and eventually gave me a printout. Since AAA was done in 15 minutes (and what you describe involved a 45 minute wait), I assume you are describing a different test. The AAA printout said there were 'no problems' with the charging system.

I will be getting a new battery put in today, but since the alternator is checking out fine, wanted to know what else could drain/ruin a 10-month-old battery. It's possible the battery was ruined by my driving habits (leaving the car sit for days, then taking short trips only when it was used), but I haven't ruled out a slow drain caused by an electrical or connection problem. So after I get the new battery in, I would like to get that checked out. Where would you start? Can someone knowledgeable post a sequence of 'do this, then this' step by step? Or is that even possible. The one thing I know that is going on is the dash panel lights are going out. They flicker, sometimes are on, sometimes not. There is no backlight in the center console either (where the automatic shifter is), and I think the backlighting on the radio is out as well (not positive). The door locks work and the security alarm comes on (red light on in dash), and even when the dash panel lights are out, I can always see the icon that shows I need to replace a tail light, and I believe I can also see (there's an icon) what gear I am in. The windshield wipers work. The headlights/tail lights work. The seats power forward and back and the seats warm up. Haven't needed the AC in a while, but it always cooled when I needed it. The one weird thing that happened a few days ago was, after taking the car out for a 30 minute drive (I was trying to get the battery to recharge itself before putting it away for the day), after I got home and pulled over, I heard a series of clicking noises under the dash panel (near the hood, in the center of the car) that lasted for four to five seconds. I had not heard that before. I heard it once again a little later (I drove off again to see if I could replicate the sound) for a few seconds then nothing since. Earlier that day, I had added a small amount (and I mean small, like a few tablespoons) of brake fluid to the reservoir, and did so while the engine was on idle. The owner's manual said if you have ABS that that is how you add brake fluid. I didn't add more fluids at that time because I realized I needed a funnel. Do brake lines run anywhere near that area? Could the sound be air working its way through? It almost sounded like a mouse doing a tap dance. The other thing I wondered about is whether the air suspension was trying to 'lift' the car (it does this periodically when it senses more clearance is needed) but because of a weak battery, maybe it could not do what it usually does? I have no idea if the air suspension would even require power to function, but thought I would throw that out there. 1994 LS400 97K miles.

I was just checking up on that today...(figuring out what else I need to do). It's been a couple of years since it was changed. The thing is, I haven't driven the car much in that time frame. But if based on time (rather than mileage) I probably should get that done. Thoughts? All I care about is that whoever does it uses the Toyota fluids (I have the part number from an old invoice). I'll even buy the stuff and take it to the indie mechanic if that is what it takes. I'm not having the work done at the dealership (they are really expensive).

Yes, I do mean that. IF I have to replace the starter (the saga continues), I plan to take it to him. The quote I got on the gaskets (I called around in case I had to supply them to someone) was only $24 for 2 intake manifold. They said they would not need to replace the air surge gaskets. I have no idea what the starter parts cost. His quote was for everything -- starter rebuild, labor, gaskets. I told him right upfront that I was having second thoughts about buying an OTC rebuilt, and he said he does not recommend them (and why). He said it's better to rebuild what you have. I asked if his rebuild included replacing the starter drive and he said 'yes' and that what they do is a "complete overhaul". I also questioned his quote on the labor, and reminded him it was under the intake manifold. He wasn't phased in the slightest and did not change his quote. That's all I have to go on. If I need a starter, I will post back here and let you know how it goes.

Oh, thanks so much. Yes, the battery was back in the car and the engine was running when it read 60%. This was AFTER the slow charge. It's gone. I still could have a problem with the starter, but one thing at a time. I will say this, when the battery was fully charged, the starter seemed normal. Then, when the battery was low (such as today) the starter made that weird noise I mentioned earlier (kind of a loose, gnashing sound). I don't know if these two 'events' are related (could be wishful thinking on my part), but it did kind of seem that way. I will know more after the new battery is in and I have a few more listens to the starter. I would let three or four days go by where I wasn't driving it at all, then zip off to a store for a few miles round trip. Or maybe even a mile round trip. The furthest I've driven lately was 20 miles RT and even then, a lot of that was stop and go, or 35-40 mph tops, as it was all on surface streets through residential and light commercial (with lots of stop signs and stop lights and pokey traffic). Lot of good that big V-8 engine does me. Looks like I will need to make some changes in my driving habits (and I will). I appreciate knowing about the cranking amps. I won't worry about it (what he said).

So sick of this. I was at the gas station earlier today and noticed that telltale sluggishness on start-up. Drove straight to AutoZone, which wasn't too far away, to have them check the charge on the battery. Sure enough, it had dropped another 10% (was at 74%) down from 84% a few days ago. We put it on a slow charge and it was back at 100% in about 45 minutes. When done, he took the battery off the charger and it sat on the counter for about 15 minutes until he could get away to put it back in the car. He checked the charge again, and by that time, it had dropped to 60%. He said the battery was shot. The 60% was enough to get the car started tho. The last time AAA was here he ran a full test that showed the alternator was good (he gave me the printout). This battery is 10 months old (and is a replacement for another AAA battery that went out a few months before its warranty expired). What could ruin a 10 month old battery? I had been letting the car sit for long periods and when I did drive it, it was for around town driving over short distances, so I guess that was not the best plan, battery wise. But is there anything else? If I put in a new one (which I will get pro rated), what are the odds I will have the same problem in a few weeks? Few months? Everyone says look at the alternator, but that tested fine the last go around (about a week ago). If it were you, what would you do next (besides putting in a new battery)? One more question...someone standing next to me at AutoZone looked at the cranking amps on the AAA battery (at 650) and said that was too low for the engine. Is this true? Should I get a 1,000 amp battery replacement? No, the key should not be hot. The key can be warm after extensive driving during summer. It's a possibility some parts of your engine bay is overheating or there's an electric discharge along the line but I am only speculating. Let's work on the starter issue. Now, i've read what CuriousB mentioned about the AAA guy and the starter. He's right, the starter isn't engaged long enough to draw too many amps. I wonder if the AAA guy was trying to say alternator instead of starter, which is designed to draw and expel electrical current to and from the battery. That was going to be my third troubleshooting tip, replacement of the alternator, but before you do that see if your new battery has lost charge; that's one of a few clear indicators your alternator is defective. So before you buy a new starter and the alternator, I would test the battery again. The Autozone and Advanced Auto guys have tester you can use or just ask them to run a diagnostic. A proper test includes testing with the headlights on, reving the engine and a couple of other things I can't recall of the top of my head. The final reading should indicate what device is going or gone bad. I hope it's just the battery that's defective. If the 85% charge resulted in adequate engine start, starter, operation then leave it at that. The higher level you keep the battery charged the shorter its service life will be. For that very reason I don't think modern day automotive, aletrnator, battery charging systems are designed to keep the battery "topped off". My '01 Porsche C4 ALWAYS starts, but much quicker, higher rate of starter motor "turn-over" if I have just topped off the charge with an external charger.

It's been four years, two months. I guess there's no rush. Sounds like I can do a drain and fill then when I am ready. Thanks.

Installed new radiator and fan shroud at end of 2007 so got new Toyota long-lasting coolant at that time. Since then, the car hasn't been driven much (10K miles roughly). Probably past due to change the coolant. The lexls.com tutorial shows 'flush' and 'non-flush' procedures. Which do I need to do (have done)? What are some of the ways that contaminants can get into the system? The only thing that has been done (to my knowledge) was done yesterday, when the tech topped off the reservoir, which was right at the 'minimum' level. He poured up to 'max' (with the engine off/cold).

That's a very good deal. Is the 'oil plug washer' the same as 'gasket'? When I bought the supplies for an oil change at a dealer, that is what they sold me: The oil, a gasket, and a filter. Nothing says 'oil plug washer' that I can see. Tx. So late yesterday, for $25, here's what I got done: Oil change (including new filter and gasket), topped off coolant, topped off brake fluid with Dot 3 (it was at minimum level but this is likely the result of 'normal' loss of fluid over the past few years), checked transmission fluid, removed engine air filter and blew it out with a high pressure hose as it was 'moderately' dirty (they did not have one that fit exactly and I want an OEM replacement anyway), checked serpentine belt, and adjusted tire pressure. I was a one happy camper when I left, and so was my car. I plan on rechecking fluid levels to make sure they are 'holding' as they should in the next few days.

Awesome. My new favorite search tool. :-) That's a good one! You are absolutely right. You cannot search for 3-letter words but you could put "engine oil" (in quotes) and that would work. This a volatile subject but in a nutshell, yes, the Valvoline is just fine. Go for it as it sounds like a good deal. You do NOT need Mobile 1 (coming from a guy who runs Mobile 1 in my Lexus B) ). One additional way you can search for 3 letter words is to use the LOC/Google search in the upper right top of the page. It is a small horizontal white bar with very faint print. Just enter oil, no quotes, next click on Google search, then click go. It will do a search of the entire LOC data base but list it in Google format. I use it almost all the time now. Let me know what you think.

Great, thank you (both for how to search and the input on the oil issue)! The oil change before last I had done at a dealership and I am looking right at the invoice and it says they used 5-W-30 bulk oil. Really appreciate the quick reply...getting over there ASAP. Nice to be able to stretch the budget for auto maintenance, since I have lots more I want/need to do besides an oil change. TX!! That's a good one! You are absolutely right. You cannot search for 3-letter words but you could put "engine oil" (in quotes) and that would work. This a volatile subject but in a nutshell, yes, the Valvoline is just fine. Go for it as it sounds like a good deal. You do NOT need Mobile 1 (coming from a guy who runs Mobile 1 in my Lexus B) ).

I know there must lots of threads on this topic, but since I can't search for three letter words (oil) I can't find them. Question: I just got a quote for a $25 oil change (my car really needs it). They use Valvoline 5-W-30 (this is the right weight for my car, and it's regular oil (what I use), not synthetic. This includes replacing the filter and gasket. They did not specify type of filter. Should I go with this (at Sears Auto)? Pretty sure it's a 'loss leader', meaning they do not make money on the service, but they do it to get you accustomed to/going to their shop for services. Or, should I pay $60 plus to someone who uses Mobil 1? One parts guy at a Lexus dealer said any 5-W-30 will do. Last time I bought 7 qts. from him (Toyota motor oil from that particular Lexus dealer) and took it to an indie shop who changed it out for me. Bit of a hassle, but still saved loads on dealer price. Opinions/suggestions appreciated. All I care about is not doing anything dumb that I will regret. A $25 oil change sounds fantastic about now. :-)

Good to know! Tx. Yes, I got a good start off the 84%. Looks like the only thing left is to have it retested in a week or so to make sure it's not losing more (like another 15%). No, the key should not be hot. The key can be warm after extensive driving during summer. It's a possibility some parts of your engine bay is overheating or there's an electric discharge along the line but I am only speculating. Let's work on the starter issue. Now, i've read what CuriousB mentioned about the AAA guy and the starter. He's right, the starter isn't engaged long enough to draw too many amps. I wonder if the AAA guy was trying to say alternator instead of starter, which is designed to draw and expel electrical current to and from the battery. That was going to be my third troubleshooting tip, replacement of the alternator, but before you do that see if your new battery has lost charge; that's one of a few clear indicators your alternator is defective. So before you buy a new starter and the alternator, I would test the battery again. The Autozone and Advanced Auto guys have tester you can use or just ask them to run a diagnostic. A proper test includes testing with the headlights on, reving the engine and a couple of other things I can't recall of the top of my head. The final reading should indicate what device is going or gone bad. I hope it's just the battery that's defective. If the 85% charge resulted in adequate engine start, starter, operation then leave it at that. The higher level you keep the battery charged the shorter its service life will be. For that very reason I don't think modern day automotive, aletrnator, battery charging systems are designed to keep the battery "topped off". My '01 Porsche C4 ALWAYS starts, but much quicker, higher rate of starter motor "turn-over" if I have just topped off the charge with an external charger.

I really didn't have a bad pun in mind when I said that. Ha ha. It's a relief to have a gameplan, for if/when it the starter goes. The only reason I am not more suspicious of the price (it's a very good deal) is due to the number of years he's been in business and the fact that the mechanic who will be doing the work has been with him from 'day one'. Plus the warranty. His online reviews are very very good and seem to have been written by actual customers. Did not know that about battery makers...it's probably the same for every other product on the planet, come to think of it. Good to know about fast v. slow charge. I am at the mercy of whatever the person tells me. Hopefully (at some point) I will have a base of knowledge to be able to reach my own conclusions. I've been picking up a lot of good info lately (online)...reading and studying. I can see why people become DIYers...saves money and sounds like a bit of fun (when the 'fix' actually works, that is). Hopefully, no more teeth gnashing, from either me or the starter. :-). I will post back w/any new info. Thanks!! You don't know how bad of a pun that line really is (teeth gnashing with a starter topic). If the total replacement with rebuild is $300, that is extremely reasonable. Especially if done by competent mechanics, which it sounds like you have found. You may have gotten a bad battery. It is not good to let lead acid batteries run down. It really shortens their life expectancy. Based upon your earlier post, it sounds like the charging system is good. BTW, all batteries come from about 3 different suppliers so there is really not that much of a difference. They are just relabeled and given different warranties. Lastly, don't worry about the "slow" charge, "fast" charge issue you are being fed. Your cars charging system is designed to do the correct job if you just drive it for a half-hour to hour and keep using it on a regular basis.

I've pretty much got things lined up for a starter replacement at this point (most of the teeth gnashing is over). They will do the starter rebuild and the removal/install, so the onus is on them if the part fails. It's a starter/alternator specialty shop that has a 40 year track record. They work on all makes/models of cars and didn't blink when I said it was an LS400. I can get it all done for just under $300, which is a great deal. Warranty is 1 year on labor and 4 years on the part. As I said, the car is starting up fine for now. I am not hearing any weird starter noises like I did the night AAA was out. Famous last words. The remaining mystery is the battery. Remember, when this all started, the battery tested fine, which is why AAA said it's probably the starter (that and because tapping in the engine area caused it to start). Then three days later, the battery was dead, possibly for a combination of reasons: I had not driven the car much in weeks; the night weather had turned colder; and I had repeatedly tried to start the car over a period of days. AAA told me to go get a two hour slow charge the next morning. AutoZone instead gave me a fast charge and brought it up to 100%. Yesterday (four days later), when they retested it, it had lost 16% of its charge (in four days). I plan to take the car in after another four days or so to a service station that I have been referred to. If the battery shows further discharge, they I will have them do the slow charge. Then another retest after a week or so to see whether it's holding the slow charge. If it isn't, then it's time to track down a short or electrical problem or some other reason the battery is being drained. If there is no obvious connection or electrical problem, then time to try a new battery. This battery is only about 9 months old. This is my second AAA battery. The first one had to be replaced at about 2 years 9 months. My old battery (it may have been a Sears...not sure) lasted five years!

Based on this info, I would say he could do what he outlined in the time promised (rebuild THIS starter). Good. The last one I did myself used a planetary reduction gearset and was out ("standard" side mount [experienced??]) and back in within 2 hours. I know of no reason why a quality rebuilt shouldn't last as long as the OEM. These days with DBW, EFI, and coil-on-plug ignition starter motor duty cycle is extremely low.

Thought I would add an update: Took the car to Autozone today and they retested the battery, which showed it is at 84%. Four days ago, they gave me a 'fast charge' and brought it up to 100%. Is this normal to lose 16% in four days? On the 23rd, I had asked for a 'slow charge' (AAA told me to get this done), but for whatever reason they put it on a fast charge. Does a fast charge hold as long as a slow charge? I was not happy that they did not do what I asked, but whatever. They were incredibly busy and I think just wanted to get my little project done as fast as possible. Wondering if it would help to go someplace else and get the 2 hour slow charge. If the battery continues to lose charge at this rate, there could be something else going on...a slow drain on the battery cause by something shorting out, etc. I also got a quote on rebuilding my existing starter for $95 dollars (I am moving forward with getting estimates and lining up a shop just in case the starter is the problem...it's working fine for now, btw). I was told they would do a complete rebuild on the starter for that price.

That's what I am worried about. I don't want someone else's starter. I want this one rebuilt. I will stand there and watch them do it, if that is what it takes. Ha ha. He quoted me to rebuild THIS one. Not including labor to remove or reinstall it, how long should it take a really experienced person to rebuild THIS starter? If I know what a reasonable timeframe is for the rebuild, that will help me decide whether the quote they gave makes sense. Is this something someone can do in, say, an hour? Tx. That

Oh, OK (re the Bendix). Tx. I thought his price was too cheap too. I'm going to call him again (or maybe drive over for a face to face). He has amazing reviews in social media and sure came across as an stand up kind of guy. But I question how he could do all this for the price quoted. When I asked that today, he said his guy can do the work of other mechanics in half the time, and that this person has been working for him since 'day one'. 40 years, in other words. I just don't know. I do like his price ... but want to be sure I am getting the right thing done...car is still working for now, so I have a little time to investigate and decide...

Thanks. What is a Bendix? I got a quote today from a starter/battery shop for rebuilding my existing starter for $95. I asked what parts they would overhaul and/replace, and he said 'everything'. I asked if they would replace the starter drive and he said 'yes'. He's been in the business for 40 years and has high ratings on yelp (I realize this may or may not mean much). He said he does not recommend buying OTC rebuilts, because sometimes they don't fit, or they will start making odd noises. Warranty on labor for 1 year, and 4 year warranty on the part. For now, the car is starting up just fine...but who knows for how long. I want to be ready when/if it stops working. Starter motors are typically a DIY "reman". Clean/lub the bendix, clean/sand the commutator, new brushes and solenoid contacts, good to go.

The owner's manual says if you have ABS(?) that when topping off brake fluid, you pour it in while engine is at idle (otherwise, you add it with the engine off). It may take me a few days to get an appointment with the mechanic, so I wanted to add a little fluid since the level is right at minimum. I got a small bottle of Prestone Dot 3. What is the rationale behind adding the fluid while engine is at idle? Wouldn't this mean that air can get in the system? I plan to add it slowly/gradually to the maximum line. If you check the maintenance schedule for your 95 LS400, you will find that the recommended change interval for both the brake fluid and coolant is 24 months or 30,000 miles. Regardless of the recommendations from shade tree mechanics (me included) and urban legends, maintaining a Lexus or any other brand car according to the manufacturers' maintenance schedule is, in the end, inexpensive and cost effective. I'm 2,900 miles from the 150,000 mile service. Still again, everything is going to be done by the book - including replacing the coolant and brake fluid - plus a couple of extras like changing the transmission and differential fluid. An added benefit I've found is it makes it very easy to sell a used car. Nothing impresses propective owners like showing records and/or receipts for every single maintenance and repair.

Thanks for clarifying...two years, hmmm. Well, better late than never (brake fluid). I am going to calendar all this routine maintenance and flag with reminders so I don't miss anything else. My preference is to maintain the car according to manufacturer instructions. If you check the maintenance schedule for your 95 LS400, you will find that the recommended change interval for both the brake fluid and coolant is 24 months or 30,000 miles. Regardless of the recommendations from shade tree mechanics (me included) and urban legends, maintaining a Lexus or any other brand car according to the manufacturers' maintenance schedule is, in the end, inexpensive and cost effective. I'm 2,900 miles from the 150,000 mile service. Still again, everything is going to be done by the book - including replacing the coolant and brake fluid - plus a couple of extras like changing the transmission and differential fluid. An added benefit I've found is it makes it very easy to sell a used car. Nothing impresses propective owners like showing records and/or receipts for every single maintenance and repair.

The brake fluid is filthy, besides which, the manual says to change it every few years (I need to look up the exact recommended timeline). I'm closing in on three years since it was last changed, so it's time. I didn't learn what a socket wrench was until just a few days ago, but even I (a complete novice) know that dirty fluids cannot possibly be good for a car. As to coolant, what I have read is that regular coolant is 'good for' approximately three years before the anti-freeze component starts breaking down, and Toyota's long-lasting coolant will last about five years. Aluminum doesn't rust, but it corrodes badly if the coolant is degraded.

Great. That's the info I was looking for. I'll go with the tutorial then.

I know this is an old thread, but I need to change the brake fluid (saw today that the color is dark), and, per the usual, have questions about how best to do this. I found the lexls.com tutorial, which is great. It does look straightforward. Then I saw some other (non-Lexus) threads that talked about how if you have anti-lock brakes, flushing brake fluid is more difficult. The gist of these other threads was that with anti-lock brakes, you can't just open up the bleeder valves and let it run. There was mention of the anti-lock solenoids needing to be pulsed so that the fluid purges (someone said). The master cylinder needed to be in a certain position...someone else said that you need a special tool to 'home'?? the ABS cylinders? I realize none of the above para may apply, but thought it best to run it by here. I do have anti-lock brakes (1994 LS400 97K miles), which is why I ask. Thanks.