prix

Well, if the answer is in these threads, I can't find it. What type of brake fluid should I use for a drain and fill or flush? What brand do you use/swear by? This is a LS400, 1994. The lexls.com tutorial says the fluids must be "Dot 3", but when I look on AutoZone or other sites, there are (seemingly) limitless choices with (indecipherable) unique features. On another forum someone said they used 'motul rtf? 600', but that wasn't available on AutoZone (the retail shop closest to me). I am only interested in doing whatever the owner's manual says -- Dot 3 -- not any upgrades to higher boiling point, etc., but I do want to use a brand that is considered of better quality.

Thanks for the detail. This looks do-able, as long as it's done methodically. I'd rather take the TB out and do a complete cleaning, as well as keep the spray away from any other parts.

One last bit of information, and this relates to the use of Chevron Techron. I called the 800 number for Chevron Techron directly, and spoke with a lube technician. He said the best ratio of product to gas is 1 oz. of Techron to a gallon of gas. So for a 12 oz bottle of Techron you need to mix that with 12 gallons of gas (no more than that) for the best cleaning efficiency, or 20 gallons of gas for the 20 oz. bottle. And, you don't have to wait until your tank is on 'reserve gas' or completely empty, to do this. You can add the bottle of Techron to even a quarter tank of gas, then top off with whatever amount of gas you need to add up to the required ratio. Per the owner manual, this car has a 22.5 gallon tank. He did not recommend taking the car to the smog check station immediately after the first applicaton of Techron, as the treament could increase emissions. And depending on the ratio of Techron to gas, you may even notice the car runs a little rougher for a time as it's clearing out deposits. His recommendation was to use up the first tank of treated gas, fill it up again (no Techron this time), deplete that tank, THEN get more gas (no Techron added) and take the smog test. I could also do two treatments with Techron, then fill up and deplete an untreated tank, etc. etc. But at that point, given the cost of gas, it would make more sense to do a $250 MotorVac treament! For what it's worth...

Ok, using the lexls.com tutorial along with a one sheet (pdf) that describes (no photos) how to clean the Throttle Body on a '94 LS400. I thought I was clear on everything, then noticed the lexls.com tutorial gives instructions for a Throttle Body with NO Traction Control, which is what I have. I have a Throttle Body w/TRAC. So how many connectors do I need to disconnect from the TB w/TRAC? The pdf mentions disconnecting a throttle position sensor connector, and two sub-assemblies (sub-throttle position sensor connector and sub-throttle actuator connector). Can someone please verify that there are THREE connectors on a TB w/TRAC to disconnect? Also, is there any way this can be screwed up? Is there some trick to putting the sensors back on? I ask, because the cost of a new TB w/TRAC is $1,300 (and change). I already know about using only Throttle Body Cleaner (will use CRC brand). Also, on another thread, someone said they disconnected the MAF (another very expensive part). Is that necessary when cleaning the TB? If memory serves, I didn't see anything in the lexls.com tutorial about disconnecting the MAF. I don't want to go near that unless it's required. Thank you!

Got it. Btw, I've decided I am not touching that MAF sensor...since it's a Karmen Vortex and the CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner has a warning not to use it on certain Lexi :-). But looks like just to clean the throttle body could easily be an hour. look over here and you can tell" http://www.lexls.com...rottlebody.html

Can someone give me an estimate of how much time it should take for an indie mechanic to do all of these things? . Clean Throttle Body (completely remove and clean) Replace Air Filter Clean EGR (just the 'core', which I assume means you don't have to remove?) Clean MAF sensor Clean IACV [Note: I meant to post this in the 'smog test thread', but accidentally posted it here...oh well...anyone?!]

There are three types of air flow sensors: Karman-Vortex, Vane Air flow meter, and a Mass Air flow meter. Can someone tell me what kind is on the LS400 1994? There is a warning label on the "CRS Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner" (on the can itself) that you are not supposed to use it on many LEXUS model cars (the ones with Karmen Vortex type MAFs). [Edited to add: Yes, the LS has a Karmen Vortex sensor...maybe the RXs or SCs are different? Here's someone who ruined his AFM by using the CRC MAF Sensor cleaner anyway. He replaced it, though I wonder if he had waited a few days whether it would have dried out and been OK.] http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/336572-after-cleaning-the-throttle-body-and-maf.html

All good. I want all options on the table. For all I know, this is 'normal' as the car is getting older. What about valves knocking? I was looking that up (valve adjustment) and I'm at 95K approx and I don't think that has ever been done. I will have to comb through the records. Read it's kind of a big job...I would have to plan out for that, but could get that done if/when they fix the valve cover gaskets (I wiped off that line of oil and am watching for any reappearance...might be a very slow leak). In the meantime, having bolts snugged down as you suggest. Tx. Landar you are probably right, I didnt think of that, I thought there was access to the FW/TC area from below.... never looked at that.. sorry.

I'll want to try the smaller 'fixes' first, so this goes on the list (crowbar test). Also, a day after I topped off the oil with about a third quart of 10w30 (remember I said it was a tad low)...and I put in 10w30 by accident...it takes 5w30...when I drove the car a day later, the knocking and growly noise on acceleration and deceleration seemed less loud. It's still there, but muted. The weather was also a little cooler (we've been having some 75 degree days here in Southern California), maybe by 5 degrees or so. I did not put in a lot of 10w30, so I don't know if that would have had any impact. If I were to take it in to the dealer, what kind of tests would they use to check motor mounts (engine, transmisson)? I'm not taking it in, but was curious whatis their method of diagnosis.

Your stats look great! I bought Chevron Techron this afternoon. Based on your readings, I would say the additives are NOt an issue. Need some clarification..how long after you put in the double dose of additive do you drive the car before going to the test station? How much time do you allow for all the loosened stuff to work its way out of the system?

Ok, got it. I just had the oil changed and they used dino oil. I didn't know synth would give off less HC! It's 5w30 that is on the engine cap btw, so that is what they used. The 10w30 was what I bought to top off or just to have on hand, so I got the wrong weight. No biggie. It's only a quart, so I can either use it up as needed, or not. I have had synth oil in the car before, and then someone at a Lexus dealer (mechanic) said that IHO it's a waste of money. I guess not so much when you're trying to pass smog check. I know I need to clean the MAF sensor. Everyone is saying to do that. Trust me, I will be reading the directions on how to apply (twice!).

Geez...I bought a quart of oil to top it off and the guy at AutoZone looked it up on his computer and said it used 10-30W (non-synth). I just looked at an old receipt from a DEALER the last time I bought oil (I supplied it to the mechanic) and the dealer sold me 5-30. Which should I be using?? Tx.

Also, I was told (years ago) by someone at a dealer that using synthetic oil in older cars might not be such a good idea, since parts are worn and the synth would make the engine work harder? What is the rationale behind using synthetic. I just had an oil change, and they used regular Valvoline 10-30 (I think).

Hey, great tips all. I'll use this. Curious as to why everyone says a full tank of gas going in...I was going to use EFI Injector Cleaner (it's OEM and what an indie mechanic used last time) then use up that tank of gas. Then fill it again with Chevron 92 Octane. Does that sound ok, or should I put a second bottle of EFI Cleaner in with the second fillup? In looking at my records, I see the fuel filter was changed out three years ago (so it's due) and I know one of its functions is to block contaminants from reaching the fuel injectors. Those fuel injectors coudl be dirty. So that's why I was thinking of doing two treatments. Is it OK to have fuel additives in the tank at time of test? Someone else said that will raise NO2 levels. I am not comfortable touching the MAF. I read a horror story where someone sprayed it and then the RPMs were all over the map. Turns out the solvent had ruined the AFM (I think that is what they said) and they had to replace it. So I am going to leave that alone (though it looks easy enough to do). i was wondering, if it's dirty, can I blow some compressed air on it? I read it's 'sensitive', so if it ain't broke...(how I was thinking). Thanks much.

Turns out, having to pass smog has been a good thing, because it forced me to get organized, review all my records, and learn one heck of a lot about maintaining my car in future. I also see how easy it is to get ripped off. When I look back at what I paid for dealer maintenance or repairs over the years, I cringe. I am good to go but for one more question: The car has that flickering dash light problem (sometimes goes out altogether). I know the smog shop needs to be able to see the odometer and whether the check engine light comes on in order to do the test. I see that when I turn the key to the position where the dash lights show everything (but the car is not started). Does anyone know if the dash lights go out IN THE MIDDLE of testing, whether that would result in a "fail"?? I am located in California. I read up on how to fix the dash lights last night...(checking the wiring harness in the trunk first, and if that isnt' the problem, remove cluster and send the circuitry board off). I am more than a tad nervous about dismantling the instrument cluster and getting it back in post-repair so that it looks exactly the same, so may need time to find someone who can do that for me. If I thought I could go do the test now and pass it, I would. Anyone know? Tx.

After looking up torque converter, I take it that you were addressing the knocking/chatter sound, not the sagging issue? Can you please elaborate on why you think a torque converter could be involved. Even at salvage yard prices, it's not cheap. Tx.

Ok, will do. Take a look at the top photo here (the ignition). http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/electrical/instrumentcluster.html See how keyhole and thick rubber surround is perfectly flush with and exactly centered in the housing? Well, my car's ignition doesn't look like that. If you look at it head on, it looks like someone pushed it in on the lower right. It looks a little canted (turned in toward the engine) and a little off center (in its housing). I emphasize 'a little' off because it doesnt look like it's getting ready to collapse inward or anything...it's not tha bad, but it's definitely noticeable. As if some weight has caused it to twist a little. IF I am right and that is sagging that I see in the back of the valve cover (and it's not my imagination), then maybe it's related to an ignition that is slightly 'twisted' in its housing? Going to look up torque converter now.

Just from the sound of the noise, I thought it was an internal issue, but you may be on to something, and here's why. I was looking under the hood the other day because I was having that battery tested again (go figure, they are saying it's fine). And while there, besides noticing that line of oil along the valve cover, I also noticed that where the valve cover is closest to the firewall/near the front windshield, it seemed to be sloping down or sagging. In other words, it didn't seem to be sitting level. I walked around to the right front fender, standing crosswise, and eyeballed it again, just to be sure. It looks to me like there's some sag in the back. Is that typical of bad mounts? I know I need front lateral arm bushings (those are sagging), but it was an expensive repair, and I was told at the time that if I didn't replace them the only thing I would notice is that I'd feel the road and bumps, etc. Would that needed repair cause this sagging? Or is what I am describing caused by bad mounts? My repair list is growing by the day! Thanks for any input.

I would like to get to the bottom of it, but if it's not part of the smog check here in California, then that fix can wait. I'll check out the accumulator when I have time (the mechanic will, rather). I think that is an expensive item to replace. Hopefully it's something simple, instead. Someone said the TRAC light stopped coming on after they replaced a wheel sensor. You just never know. Tx. again.

I could have sworn I read that if the TRAC light comes on it will fail. So this is good news. Thanks! Your concern is misplaced, traction control has nothing to with emissions regulations/issues.

Thanks, no even though I read these forums, I am not set up to DIY. I am lining up a bunch of work in prep for passing a smog test, so maybe I'll add this to the list. In some of my reading, it says 'light knock' can be normal, but since it wasn't there before, I would like to get rid of it if possible. Let's see what happens when I change a bunch more fluids out and clean the throttle body. I will post back if I think of it.

94 LS400, about 96K miles now... I thought an oil change would fix the light knocking sound that I've been hearing for several months now, along with a noticeable 'chatter' when I press on the gas pedal or take my foot off of it (throttle opening up, I guess). That was done in December but I am still hearing the light knocking or 'chatter'. Yesterday, on a drive back from an outing, after I pulled over and parked, here's what I noticed: Car in gear at low idle, no knocking. Very quiet, in fact. Car in park or neutral at low idle, I hear light knocking. I sat there, letting it idle and shifting through and listening. It was consistent. Neutral or Park it makes light knocking noise. In gear, it doesn't. Which does this point to...a throttle body cleaning OR transmission fluid change? I know throttle body is overdue for a cleaning. The trans fluids are due (but probably could be let go awhile longer).

I have looked at a number of threads on this topic (common problem), but none seem to have any definitive answers on how to disable TRACTION control. Symptoms: The TRAC light has been coming on intermittently for years (by itself..no check engine light at the same time). An indie mechanic said he found code 43. Lexls.com says all that means is 'malfunction in traction control'. I made a mental note last week that I hadn't seen a TRAC warning light in awhile (like about a month), but now it's back (was on yesterday). The car will fail the smog test if the TRAC control light comes on at any time during the test. With random appearances, there is no way I can predict a 'good' time to do the smog check. From my research, I know there are a LOT of possible causes. I haven't dealt with it because the car runs fine whether the light is on or off, and I live in an area where it's not critical. I wish I could just get rid of it!! I have read that if I pull the TRAC fuse, then all that will do is make the TRAC warning light stay on ALL the time. Is there some definitive way to disable it so the car willl pass the smog check?

Can someone tell me what labor charge from a lex-trained indie mechanic should be? Ballpark is fine. On the lexls.com tutorial, he said it took him two days (!!) if I am not mistaken (though he was taking pics and doing other things).

@Landar, Funny you mention that, because during the oil change I stood off to the side, watching (like a hawk), because I wanted to keep an eye on what was being done, and at one point he walked off carrying the (old?) filter, went around the corner of the building for a few minutes, then returned (still carrying that filter). I was not able to see what filter he put on (view was blocked). Plus he glanced over at me (guilt?) just before he walked away. Whatever was he doing? Anyway, yes, I checked the oil level before I drove off, and it was kind of hard to read, because it was higher on one side of the stick than the other. I didn't know which level to read! He looked at it as well and assured me it was fine. The only reason I haven't checked to see what filter is in there (don't think I didn't want to) is because there is a large cover (a flat pan) that covers all that area under the car, and (I think) to see anything you have to unscrew quite a few bolts and take the cover off. Which I am not equipped to do I had an oil leak once before because someone did not put in a new gasket, but I never saw any oil under the car because it was being caught in that pan. If it had been a heavier leak, I might have seen it 'eventually'. The only way I found out about it was during a subsequent service for another matter, the mechanic pointed it out (and ask who the heck had done my last oil change). I've also been noticing more of an engine knock (light) and sometimes a kind of chatter or growlly noise on both acceleration and deceleration for awhile now. I thought that would go away with the oil change, but it hasn't. I will be topping off engine oil today so will know soon enough if low oil was causing the knock. Might have the original shop do a quick review of the work for peace of mind. If the filter was not changed, I will know, because the last time I supplied them with an OEM. If that OEM is still on there...someone's in trouble. Whatever it is, it's obviously not a big leak of any kind. It's been five weeks since the oil change and the level on the dipstick has dropped maybe 1/2 inch? I don't know how that correlates to quantity of oil. Good to know re the smog issue, thanks. @billypowell That's a good idea, and I will definitely try that. Much appreciated.