prix

Also, just for the record, it made no sense to me when a second guy (a manager) told me the wet on that cover could have been coming from an oil pan gasket leak. Clearly both trans and oil pans are covered with seepage, but how would an oil pan gasket leak get all the way over to a corner of that cover? Seems far more likely that it WAS caused by a leaking oil filter...and since that same shop replaced the oil last time, they have a vested interest in finding another 'cause'.The mechanic was the one who first said it was the oil filter, and then he was 'corrected' after the managter looked at it (and saw the seepage all over the trans and oil pan gaskets). I think the mechanic got it right.

So it sounds like, given all the possible causes, I should have a thorough checkup done? Do you agree that degreasing and tightening the bolts is the way to go ? Then have it checked again in a few weeks to look for leaks? "...Oil covering it..." ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid, should be pinkish. I am given to understand that there is KNOWN method for blowing the rear crankshaft seal and that is sometimes done by service personal in order to sell a $1200.00 job. What about forward of the transmission pan..? I have seen what you describe resulting from PS pump leakage, steering rack leakage, and even valve cover gasket leakage. It is not all unusual to have to retighten the sump bolts sometime after (months) installing a new "gasket".

Yeah, this was an off-the-cuff diiagnosis while the car was up on the rack for an oil change. We saw an oily surface all over the trans pan, and the oil pan gasket also appeared to be leaking. I did not see any pink fluid on the trans pan...though I am not sure if that color would be there if it's truly seepage that has occurred over a period of months/years. So two leaks, maybe from trans and oil pans.. This all started when I saw a small patch of wet on the inside of the cover that has to be removed to do an oil change. He unbolted it on the driver's side and I saw a small patch of wet oil on the corner that was hanging down. He first said it was coming from the oil filter...that maybe someone didn't lube it before they put it on last time, then we saw the soaked trans and oil pans. From what I am reading, it sounds like I need to get the underside degreased, then look for the highest point of the leaks. It wouldn't hurt to have someone tighten any related bolts on the oil and trans pans. Where could I go other than the stealership to get the degreasing done? "...Oil covering it..." ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid, should be pinkish. I am given to understand that there is KNOWN method for blowing the rear crankshaft seal and that is sometimes done by service personal in order to sell a $1200.00 job. What about forward of the transmission pan..? I have seen what you describe resulting from PS pump leakage, steering rack leakage, and even valve cover gasket leakage. It is not all unusual to have to retighten the sump bolts sometime after (months) installing a new "gasket".

Car was up on the lift yesterday, and (quite by accident) I saw a thoroughly moistened trasmssion pan. Oil covering it...it's not dripping, but definitely seeping. My guess is it's been seeping for awhile now (year?). Question: I paid someone a better than fair wage to reseal that and it looks like hisi seal lasted two years, two and a half years at most. His shop warranties work for a year, so this repair will be on me. How long should a new transmission pan seal last? The car hasn't been driven hard at ALL (or even very much) since the seal was done. Maybe 15K at most? We do have hot summers here in SoCal though.

http://www.crxsi.com/info/driveability-diagnostics-emissions/EVAP-Evaporative-Emission-Control-System.htm I may have just answered my own question. According to this, the air intake hose is not part of that system so would not show up as a leak on a low pressure fuel evap pressure test. The hose still needs to be fixed, though...

Great reviews on the product. So I wrap just the hose itself (end to end,) up to but not including the clamps? I recall seeing two clamps, one on each end of the hose..The split was on the underside of the hose about 2/3rds of the way over, if measuring from left to right. I would say slightly less than half of the circumference was gaping on the underside. Can I wrap it while the hose is on the car? Or does the thing have to be removed. .

Great. This works better location wise (Lowes store is closer).

Lenore -- Do you know if this intake hose is part of the evap system? This video is for an OBDII, but the general idea is prob the same for first gens. If the hose is not part of iwhat they will be evap testing, I canl do the shrink wrap after the smog test...

Ok, got it. That part would cost me $75+or- with tax and shipping so I this is the way to go.

My LS400 1994 has air suspension, and under the hood (on both sides), are two large round black caps, each clearlly marked air suspension.

There's an idea. Never heard of heat shrink, butI will check with Autozone today!

The name of the part is 'air intake hose'. I found one for as little as $26 online, but it's probably not an OEM. Curious whether others have braved aftermarket hoses. I'm assuming this one is made in China...the Lexus parts online shop wanted $62.

I had planned to take a smog test tomorrow...then...this happened. While replacing the air filter today, and moving things around, I saw that the black rubber accordian-pleated intake boot (I think that is what it's called...it's between the MAF and the metal intake pipe) was split about 1/2 way around on one of the pleats. When everything was put back together, that boot was jammed back so tight I would be surprised if it could even leak any air at all. The car ran normally afterwards (no loss of power). But on the off chance that it is leaking miniscule amounts of air... Does anyone know whether California's Low Pressure Fuel Evap Test will detect something like that? I know they pressurize the gas tank...but (excuse the dumb question) wasn't sure what else is involved.

What's the weather like where you are? Unusually cold? I went through a similar situation when the weather turned cold. I had also been letting the car sit for too long. I got what I thought was a single click a few times (would not start) and later, a series of rapid clicks (meaning it was the battery). So I had mixed signals -- starter and battery. After I recharged the battery and the weather warmed up, the starter has worked fine ever since. That was 2.5 months ago, approximately.. If you do have to replace the starter, it pays to shop around. I got a wide range of quotes when I thought I was going to have to replace the starter...the best one being $275 for everything..rebuilding the existing starter and the labor. Sounds too good to be true, but I am pretty sure it was a legitimate shop/price. Again, shop around if you have to do this.

Yes, I did have OD pressed in, and the transmission was in neutral. I also had the wires in the right iinputs. I tried twice. I can try again tomorrow, but I don't know what to do differently. The trac light came on while I was driving today, so there should be a code. . My main concern is whether this will screw up the smog test.

I readup on lexls.com and got some wire to try pulling codes. When I tested for engine and transmission codes, that worked just fine. I got the continuously flashing lights (every .25 seconds) meaning that there were no codes. Then I moved the wires to pull ABS/TRAC codes, and when I turned the key to 'on', the TRAC light came on for about 2 seconds then went off. That was it. No blinks at all. According to lexls.com, it shoudl blink every .25 seconds if there is no code. Does this mean that traction control isn't working at all and can't even be detected? The only thing I saw was the cruise control flashing (every .25 seconds) but that was it. Nothing for ABS or TRAC or anything else. I did put the wires in the right places to check TRAC/ABS, etc.....I double checked that to be sure. The trac warning ligheck warning light has been coming on off an don for years. The last time that happened was about a week ago, so there should be a code. But, nothing. Any ideas?

btw, the dealer quoted me $180 + tax for a brake fluid flush. So would be close to $200. Not going that route, of course. Seems awfully high...

Ok, sound slike he can use either one of those DIY pressure bleeders or the pump method, as long as we are craeful. I kind of thought the concern about the Motive design verged on paranoia, but really, it's just better to ask. An ounce of prevention is worth ...etc. Thanks.

Yes, a new gasket from Lexus is on its way. I'm also replacing the pcv valve and grommet. Re the throttle pots..on another thread...someone took the pots (sensors) off and the car ran horribly after. It was resolved when they realigned them, as you say. If there's a way to 100% protect them from the cleaner spray, I am fine with leaving them on!! Tx for the suggestion! Cheers Billy although that is for the later VVTI engine. If you are removing the throttle body get yourself a new gasket for the TB to plenum chamber. Leave the throttle pots attached to the throttle body once you have disconnected the plugs to them as they would need realigning if removed and refitted just try and avoid any cleaning fluid getting near them. One of the hardest parts is removing the water hose under the TB it's a bit tight in there but take your time, refer to your tutorial and you'll be OK.

Yes, I am aware the last post was made on this thread in August. :-) I started looking into the options for a brake fluid fiush, because I want to ensure the person I hire to do this does it 'right'. I found this statement by a company called Motive (they sell reasonably priced pressure bleeders, the kind of equipment that is easily affordable to the DIYer): "Also the typical method of pumping the brake pedal while a helper opens and closed the bleeder valve can actually damage your master cylinder. By pushing the pedal past the normal travel distance the master cylinder seals on the piston can be ripped or gouged by areas in the master cylinder bore that are rusted or worn. " I would be interested in knowing whether any of the real mechanics (experienced DIY-ers or other) in this forum agree that the pumper helper method can cause damage. I've already ruled out using the Motive pressure bleeder (someone pointed out the design does not separate air from the fluids that are being pressurized, and thus could introduce air into the system... the exact opposite of what one wants). Should I also rule out the 'old fashioned way' of flushing the brake fluids? The 'pumper helper' method is also the method used in the lexls.com tutorial. If true, then that means the only safe way to flush the system would be to go to the stealership, where (presumably) they have the expensive pressure bleeders, the kind that separate air from fluids during pressurization with a rubber diaphragm of some sort. I find it hard to believe that a brake flushing method that people have been using forever (pumper helper method) can damage parts.

Thanks for that link. That's a good price!

Thanks much, yes, this is what I am going to buy. Toyota dot 3. I topped up with Prestone about a month ago when the brake warning light kept flickering...turns out I should not have used Prestone...need to get the brake fluids drained anyway, so it won't be in there much longer.

OK, tx. I get that it is a pretty basic question for an 'advanced member', but I really didn't ask for, nor do I qualify for, that designation. I didn't know what a MAF sensor was until about a week ago. On the rare occasion when I can contribute some useful information here, I do so. After frittering away a lot of time trying to get answers online, I finally just called a Lexus parts shop and asked them. I was trying to avoid doing that because they try to get me to bring the car in to let them work on it. Anyway, he said do not use anything other than the Lexus brake fluid (he meant Toyota). And, you can only get that either a Lexus dealer or at Toyota (it's the same product at either location). They said they've consistently seen problems with seals and o-rings in cars that have used aftermarket brake fluids. I am working with a mechanic who charges labor only (I supply the parts) which is why this question is coming up now. It's been flushed one other time (ages ago) but that invoice didn't mention the type of fluid. Bit of a hassle this way, but my out of pocket cost is less than 1/3rd of what the dealer would charge. I did not know that, my error, so sorry, you looked like a veteran... In my cars I use Costal super heavy duty dot 3 http://www.sturdybui...luid_p_683.html

Update on Techron: In a word, wow. Seems to have muted the light knocking sound I referenced earlier, and there is also a noticeable increase in power, smoothness, and responsiveness. The car is liking this stuff. That said, I did read (another forum, don't recall where) that it's a good idea to -- after you've gotten the benefits of it cleaning out the system -- change the oil. The gist of the comment was, used oil analysis after Techron use shows the introduction of a chemical that is not that great for your car's innards, over the long term. His recommendation was to change the oil within 500 to 1000 miles of using the additive.

Time to hit the bible study Billy. I am not a DIY, which is why I come here to learn and, yes, ask lots of questions. Deal.